hellow, i have  Pavo Pico Brushless Whoop Quadcopter  HD version  can i connect analog VTX?? if yes , how?  thank you
https://betafpv.com/products/pavo-pico-b...4423696518

If you purchased the very early Pico, it came with a 1-2S AIO and that supports analog video. However the newer Pico's come with a 2-3S Digital Only AIO. You can still use an analog VTX, however you will have not Betaflight OSD and must connect your camera directly to the VTX. If your VTX runs off 5v, then connect to 5v/GND pads on the flight controller otherwise it also has a 9v pad. If you want to control the VTX from BF, you can still do so by connecting the SmartAudio or IRCTramp pin to T1, T4, or T6 pads. But again you will have no BF OSD.

If you have a modern radio running OpenTX or EdgeTX, you can output telemetry to it and from there you can set up triggers (Logical Switches and Special Functions) to tell you when voltage is low. It's what I do on one of my quads where I took the OSD pad off the FC when soldering it. I have it setup so that it tells me when the voltage is 3.6V or 7.2V or 10.8V depending on the cell count / FC (it says "Low voltage") and another at 3.55V or 7.1V or 10.65V that says "Land Now" every 5 secs until I land. How well does it work? Well it's flyable and the batteries usually sit in the 3.7-3.9V range. It also helps that i fly 2-3S on similar quads so know the run times are about 3-4 mins. You can do the same for RSSI and LQ, but if you have your ELRS settings in order on the radio, it's not such a big deal.

Not every FC outputs the voltage telemetry the same. One of my FC outputs it as cell voltage, so the average of the pack. Another one outputs total voltage as in measured (presumably) at Vbat. When you view the actual voltage at the Telemetry screen you will know which one it is using very quickly. If you have 2S pack in and it says 4.1V then it uses the average, if it says 8.2V then it's sending total voltage. So you need to setup your logical switch to reflect that. This is where I use multiple models. I copy the main ELRS model in EdgeTX and the new one will be ELRS 2S and another is ELRS 3S and so forth. On each one I have a different logical switch for the ones that output battery voltage based on total voltage. I also have another model that is setup for average voltage.

The other thing you will need to do is loop the camera output to the VTX Video In or you won't have any video. As mstc mentioned connect everything else as normal.

For this to work, you need a decent radio, like not a LiteRadio or some other very basic radio. So anything running OpenTX or EdgeTX with a screen on it. Yes you can do it from companion, but you won't be able to do real time telemetry checking from the telemetry screen (to see exact voltages and LQ).

Some vids to watch.

thank you for help,

i have one more ploblem, 
after arming quad 2 motors spining slow one motors spin 90degree very slow, one spinds fast,

in jumper-t pro  (outputs_ i changed thrrotle start from 1000 to 1200 , but after arming same problem 1 motors not spining, 2 spining slow , 1 spining ok,
when up throuttle all motors starts spining same speed... and drone up...  

how i can fix it what after arming all motors spining fast, and a lit bit stick up drone up,, now after arming throutle i must up more when 1250 from  1000  what motors starts spining same speed....


Is it normal that in ESC configuration page its by default MINIMUM STARTUP POWER (BOOST) is 1125 ?? i get drone with these settings,,, but i buy not from shop, maybe it was updated?


i write more info in picture thx for help

Does it fly regardless of the motors being out of sync?
Or flip out when throttled up?
Which FC version do you have, the V1 1-2S version or 2-3S version?
Have you altered the BF version from the original one it came with?
Have you altered the Bluejay version in any way?

So if it flies ok I wouldn't bother messing with it. The Max Startup and Min Startup are fine. Maybe blow the motors out in case they have some crud in them that is affecting the rotation. But if it flies ok, leave it. When it doesn't fly any more, that's when you start messing with it.

The fact it flies says the ESC's are fine. The fact they are not spinning at the same speed could be down to a handful of things. Bad soldering or wires not perfectly connected to pins on the connectors. ESC settings, if it is this I am no expert on them. I generally don't touch them besides flashing whichever stable version of Bluejay or BLHeli I am using.

One thing i did notice is it doesn't show the PWM Frequency on whatever version BetaFPV put on it. You might want to reflash Bluejay with a known version and try different PWM frequencies. For whoops and small craft, try either 96KHz or 48KHz. If the motors get hot on 96, try 48 instead. You shouldn't need to go to 24 on 1102 motors. I run my 1102 18000kv motors on 48KHz without issue. Also BetaFPV has far from a stellar track record with firmware and well most things, so this might be one thing I did on mine if I owned one.

If you do upgrade Bluejay, DO NOT UPGRADE TO 0.20, only upgrade to 0.19.2 as 0.20 is broken and cooks motors. The ESC for yours is C-X-70, it should choose it automatically. If the ESC doesn't show on the flasher, don't upgrade anything.