So I bought a defective Meteor65 some months back and today i decided to solder up an F3 FC that has been lying around and make it fly.  Except it wasn't the FC that is broken, it's the motors. They all spin, but not instantly.  I can't see any junk in them, but they are super notchy and they don't rotate smoothly at all.  I tried lifting the minimum startup speed in ESC Configurator to see if that would fix it, but it didn't.  So they are junk 0802 motors that will get thrown in my bad bin.

So i don't have any spare motors and honestly as a size I dislike 65mm and any (fragile) 1mm shaft motors.  So lets go up to a 75mm.  So I have a set of 1102 18000kv that people keep telling me are too high for 2S, so one possibility is to use those.  Another is to buy a set of HM 1202.5 11500kv and make something a bit more powerful.

Rough AUW estimate, 33g for the 1202.5 on a M75 frame with 300mAh Lipo, with the ability to generate (roughly) around 160-180g of thrust @ 100%.  In terms of efficiency, the 1202.5 might be better.  Using the 1102's would shave 4g off the weight, but thrust drops by about 40g.


Aim of the build, is an all-rounder.  I want some house flying and maybe some outdoors flying.  Oh and I have limited funds for this project.  I can probably scrounge up enough for a set of motors, but that's about it. Not that i need anything else, I already have everything else and since the FC isn't bad, I now have a spare 5A AIO.  So two potential 1S builds for this winter.

Will 300mAh be enough for 1202.5's?

Do the motors at least stutter if they don't spin up? Before binning them maybe try 24khz, increase max power startup, or reflash ESCs. I've had a few 1S boards fail to spin up all motors, but reflashing ESC somehow got them working again.

(22-Nov-2023, 06:30 PM)BadRaven Wrote: Will 300mAh be enough for 1202.5's?

No idea, but I have some 450's that i need to convert to BT2.0, so I can go up a size with some messing around.

(22-Nov-2023, 06:31 PM)mstc Wrote: Do the motors at least stutter if they don't spin up? Before binning them maybe try 24khz, increase max power startup, or reflash ESCs. I've had a few 1S boards fail to spin up all motors, but reflashing ESC somehow got them working again.

Yes, they do stutter, but two of them really struggle to spin, even with min startup power on 1100.

So this BetaFPV 5A AIO came with Bluejay 20, which is apparently defective and can frag ESCs and Motors. I flashed it to 19.2 and reflashed 4.3.2 to the board. I am using the 1102 motors for now, since I know they are good. The 0802's I will try again when I get time.

As I only started flying my 1S whoops again recently, I had the following experience with motors not starting up.

X12 with 0802 - stop starting up after taken off the shelf, but ESC reflash and is flying again
Neutron 1S board 0802 - one motor stop starting up after turtling in grass - again flying after ESC reflash
JHEMCU 1-2S board 1002 - one motor not spin up after crash - again flying after ESC reflash
Flywoo 1S with 1002 (came on 0.20) - one motor stop after a crash, changing ESC settings kind of got it respinning, but not consistently and not able to fly - Flywoo replaced the board
X12 with 1103 - not spinning after sitting on the shelf, swapped to XT30 connector and all spinning again
Bfpv 1s board 1102 - one motor not startup consistently after many flights, fiddling ESC settings/reflash doesn't seem to help

I've reflashed, but I think the gyro might be bad on that BFPV board. I can start the 1102's up on it, but as soon as I apply throttle it flips out like the control map is off or a motor is spinning the wrong way, except they aren't, but I did almost think one of the motors was spinning both ways, so spinning CCW on one arm and CW on the next. If it is, well the board is toast.

So I ran into some issues using the F3 on a M75 frame, basically it doesn't fit. Currently wondering whether to put it on the NanoFly16 frame I have, with the 1102's or use a different FC.

Motor power is compared by stator volume.. because thats the part making power.

The base, and prop hardware is fixed unusable extra weight. On tiny motors it becomes a large proportion... tiny motors are very inefficient.

approx stator volume
1204 -> 144
1202.5 -> 90
1103 -> 91
1102 -> 60
1003 -> 75

The thing for me I understand stator volume, but all i'm interested in is raw thrust data. So ideally I want test data from the manufacturer on a range of props. Using that data I can work out what sort of thrust ratio i'm looking for (ideally 5:1 minimum) and how big the ESC's need to be. Is it wrong to do it that way?

So in my example, I know some things. The AUW based on a M75 frame,BFPV 5A AIO, 1102's canopy, camera, vtx and BFPV 1S 300mAh lipo is 38.5g. The 1102 motors can produce up to 50g of thrust per motor giving a total of about 200g on GF 1635. So 200 / 40 gives me the 5:1 ratio. So this build would meet the specification I need.

So I flashed QS to the 5A AIO and will be trying it later. If I can get the thing to hover on LoS then this build will use that board. If not I am going to grab one of the BFPV 12A AIO's I have and use it, but with a BT2.0 instead of XT30. I really want a 1S. I have loads of 1S cells to use.

So I connected the 5A AIO that I flashed Quicksilver to last night, to the 1102's on the M75 frame. Managed to manually bind my Jumper to it. Setup switches. Plugged a 1S 300 lipo in and voila it flies. So it was the motors that were broken, not the FC. The reason it was flipping over was likely the gyro being rotated in BF, because it now flies without issue.

Next it's soldering time. I desoldered the vtx from it the other week. Time to put it back on.

Guys, please, tell me where I can read a good guide on quicksilver? The official documents are incomprehensible and extremely clueless. All my life I have been reading technical documents in English, but I did not understand anything that is in the public domain.
I can't speak English, but I can read. Google is to blame for all my speech errors.
I understand the guides for betaflight. I figured out the ardupilot, but the quicksilver is something.
I may not need this, but I am very, very interested.

There is and isn't a guide. The official one is below.

https://docs.bosshobby.com/

I thought it wasn't massively harder than Betaflight.

I would say if you are ok with betaflight to just use that. But if you want to try it, open up a thread in the Quicksilver area and i'll try and help you as best I can. But the hardest part is flashing your FC. Best to start with something small and easy like a whoop, ideally with serial ELRS, but you can flash SPI ELRS just as easily. Beyond that, it's as hard as connecting to the quad, give it a name, tell it what uart elrs is on, setup your vtx, bind your radio to it, set your arm switch, and if you need angle and turtle mode, put those on other switches. Then go fly. At least that's all I did. I don't tune or anything like that, i just do a barebones setup and go fly it.

Since people always want to see pics, well here are some.  

First picture is the almost final product.  i still need to zip tie the motor wires. 



Pictures two and three show the most broken connectors I've come across. You can't tell from the pictures, but they are brittle.  When I popped the motor connectors off the ones on the FC broke, but not cleanly.  No idea what to make of it, but might need to hot glue them in place, in the long run.  The one on the left in the first pic has no plastic per se surrounding the plug, it's pretty much been held in place by the 3 pins.




Still to do, well QS needs configuring a bit better.  I worked out how to access the OSD (right, right, right) and change VTX power levels, but it would be kind of nice if it did automatically, like "low power on disarm" like Betaflight.  I managed to get the OSD in some sort of order that makes sense to me, but the preview didn't work in the configurator so had to do it while using a set of goggles, although that made it much easier and more accurate I guess.

Video will come tomorrow.  I have 12 packs charged and will likely head out to my usual spot to rip some packs and get some video.  i expect to get no more than 2-3 mins per pack, due to them being 300mAh, but it's all I have until I convert the CNHL 450mAh PH2.0 lipos.

So anyway I flew 5 packs.  The temperatures in the UK are low and in the quarry they were sub-zero.  So my exposed hands got hypothermia.  Hence only 5 packs.

So issues:

Hovers at 50-60%
Prop wash on dives (expected, but caused some crashes)

The props are shite, no idea what they are, maybe someone else knows, but no usable power.  Will try GF 1635 and some HQ 40mm bi-blades I used on my nephews 75mm.  But 50-60% to hover is bad.

Some videos.

I had 1102s on a 75mm carrying a heavier Split 3 camera, it was a lot of fun but needed a 650mah battery and was a little on the clumsy side. I think these motors are a better match for 45mm prop though. With all the sales you can pickup a 75pro frame for a few bucks and try it out, both the 45mm biblades and triblades fly quite nicely depending on your preference. Especially if you want to fly 1S in such an open space, you will probably enjoy the extra power/stability and it pulls out of dives without issue.

An old clip of the 75/split3
https://youtu.be/LVAorkMWTmQ?t=1

Stupid things is I built something like this for my nephew. It hovered at 35%. Using the old BFPV 1102 18000kv. This one isn't a patch on it.

#props.