Typically I prefer lightweight and even slightly underpowered builds as it suits my flying better. But clearly I have been influenced by several fellow forum members who seem to favor big oversized motors. I did buy a very old used Betafpv 95x that also runs 1106 motors on 4S but driving 2.5" props. After removing the ducts and putting in a lighter Walksnail 1S VTX, I was surprised that I actually enjoy flying it a lot. At around 80g dry, it gives an incredible thrust-to-weight performance. I picked up a set of T-motor 1106 when RotorRiot had them on sale (as they sell them with motor plugs) and was thinking I'd swap it into the 95X when the Betafpv motors gave out.

But I can't bear to see parts laying around, and was overcome by the urge to put them in a build. I did not have a 2.5" frame I wanted to use, but I did have a OddityRC XI20 whoop frame I've been wanting to try. 2" props sound a little small, but I figured if it doesn't work out, I'll just swap out to a 2.5" frame later.

Although they still look like tiny motors, 1106 have 3x the stator volume of a typical 2" prop motor (ie 1102) and come pretty close to a 1404. These are the T-motor M1106 6000kv motors. In my experience the F series performs better, their M series seems more budget, less smooth, less efficient, and less durable... but we'll see.

 

For the AIO, I am using the HM CrazyF411 ELRS off the Crux35v2. Not my favorite AIO, but come with motor plugs soldered so a good match for this setup. There is nearly nowhere to solder a digital VTX, you have to tap the power off the battery lead itself. I added a SH1.0 plug with breakout board to make connecting the VTX easier. 
 
While I was testing the motors, I noticed that ESC1 would randomly cut-out and reboot. Because I had to fit the cap, battery lead, and VTX power all on one tiny pad, the soldering was a little bulgy. I saw that the solder joint came very close to an adjacent mosfet, but it was not bridged. I suspect this caused the ESC issues. I resoldered the lead a little tidier and covered with some liquid tape. The ESC now seems to be running fine (fingers crossed).



For the VTX, thinking to put in a naked vista, although maybe a lighter WS VTX makes more sense and will at least have 1080p onboard recording. The camera mount is nice and forward, so also good for the WS wide FOV. May swap it out later, the VTX just mounts to the bottom plate so is easy to swap.



The prop guard ring weighs around 16g... hmmm maybe go ductless too? Without the ducts, it actually fits 2.5" props. But I think I'll fly it with the prop guard first and see how it does. The dry weight will probably be close to 100g through so we'll see...

(17-Apr-2024, 05:49 PM)mstc Wrote: Typically I prefer lightweight and even slightly underpowered builds as it suits my flying better. But clearly I have been influenced by several fellow forum members who seem to favor big oversized motors.

LOL.

You are certainly the build monster.  How many have you done this year so far?

As ever will look forward to whatever gets created and the super fast flight video from those oversized motors.

Hey mstc
Not sure but the red prop on the right might need checking?

(17-Apr-2024, 09:28 PM)Timmyhawk 2 Wrote: Hey mstc
Not sure but the red prop on the right might need checking?

Yes, ready to flip the quad on power up.

Thanks Timmyhawk, just grabbed a bunch of spare 2.5" props off the table to see how well they would fit (it does seem I break more clockwise props as most of my spares are ccw). Although those props happen to have screws on them, they are not actually installed on the motors, will have to put on some actual 2" props when its ready to fly.
I usually get the props right, but on occasion I do forget to turn on props out setting or forget to reset board alignment.

@pathfinder well I really thought my drone building and flying days had come to an end. I already prepared myself to let it all go and started liquidating my collection. But fortunately I discovered I can still fly... and build... so all these new builds are a bonus I did not expect. And certainly I think I have gone overboard...
Enjoy it while you can

Hi Mstc,

What is that board that you have mounted to the FC ?

Later, iFly  

Hi ifly, it is a breakout board for the SH1.0 4p plug. It makes it easier to plug in digital VTXs. It is possible to solder directly to the plug, but the soldering is a little challenging as seems SH1.0 plugs only come in SMD form factor.

Several forum members (MikeC, Voodoo, Lemony) helped me with the design process, and I had the boards made in several versions (some with LED, some with mosfet switch, some with BEC) and all components were presoldered and reasonably priced. It was my first time designing/ordering a PCB, if I were to do it again I would make everything smaller and more compact(thinner board, smaller pads, smaller footprint), but so I still have a bunch left over from the first batch. Most of the newer AIOs come with a digital VTX plug so don't need them.

https://intofpv.com/t-help-design-a-simp...#pid201667

Hi Mstc,

Well now, that is cool.   So, it is more than just a pigtail connector that I use.

You say "mosfet switch"... does that allow you to turn it on and off with the transmitter?

Very Cool.     I like it.  

[Edit]:   Went back and read the other thread. Yeah, I like the switch. 


Later, iFly  

Yes the mosfet switch allows the power to be turned on/off using BF PINO (mapped to the radio). It was based on a design Momobrut posted for his LR Scythe, he fit the switch onto a single wire. I have it in several quads and it is working well. It seems to work fine for most AIOs using any pad, although on one AIO I couldn't get it working on the buzzer pad.

Was getting ready to put this build together for its maiden. I had some 5-blade props ( where did those come from?... must have come with the used 95x). Should be a good match for the 1106.



However when I powered up to check the VTX, there was no OSD showing. I swapped the Vista onto a spare test AIO and it was the same. I double-checked the TX and RX pads and they were not shorted to ground, so it was not a diode issue. Then I remembered I hadn't used this VTX in a long time, it did not have WTFOS on it, hopefully that was the problem. So I sat in front of the laptop with fan blowing and waiting 10 minutes for it to install. On the test AIO, the OSD was showing now, so that's good. But when I plugged it back in the CrazyF411 board, still no OSD. It seems the UART on that AIO is not working
@fpvme also had a dead UART on this same AIO, and as that is the one and only available UART, there is really no option to get digital OSD even if I swap in a different VTX like the WS.

That is my only motor-plugged AIO (the spare AIO with the working UART unfortunately ESCs don't run) so I don't have one to swap in. I may just assemble it anyways to see how it flies, for the Vista at least you can manually set the VTX to full power mode. I guess this AIO will end up on an analog build then... hmmm maybe I can swap out the board from my analog Crux35... but it flies so well I don't want to touch it.

Put the drone together today, but its a heavy little guy coming in at 108g. Its heavier than my Crux35HD which also carries a naked vista, but has a significantly larger 3.5" prop.





And with a 4S 450 battery



On the maiden, it took off and shot straight to the moon. There was excessive vibrations somewhere. Managed to land, and turned down all the pids and bumped up the filtering. Also lowered ESC startup power as noticed these motors were very torquy on startup. Not sure if the VTX plug was flapping in the airflow so tucked it down next to the vista away from the FC.



It flies better now, but still you can hear the oscillations, and trying to throttle up past 70% causes too much vibrations the motor won't even reach max thrust. There is plenty of thrust, but because the drone is so heavy with such a small prop, it is not easy to control. Certainly the poor tune has something to do with that as well, but I'm thinking these motors are better suited for a 2.5" open prop build. I don't think it is a frame  issue, as OddityRC sells this BNF with similar motors (1205-5500kv). I will try playing around some more with the PIDs, but don't have any experience tuning this type of setup (too bad no dump file on OddityRC website either). Or may try some other different props to see if there is any difference.