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Wiring
#1
Hello!

I started building my drone from start after the voltage regulator on my older FC got burned i bought a new FC for the build (refer https://intofpv.com/t-my-fc-suddenly-won-t-power-up). Before starting soldering all the wires, i drew a wiring diagram to be sure all is set in good manner. Please advice on whether current set-up is good to start soldering up the wires.

I have following components (leaving the 4 in one ESC out of here since it is already soldered to the motor):

- FC: https://www.rcgoing.com/dys-f4-v2-pro-fl...rated-osd/
- receiver: https://www.gofly-rc.com/product/frsky-x...-receiver/
- VTX: https://www.hellasdigital.gr/go-create/f...d-control/
- camera: https://www.amazon.com/JJA-CM1200-1200TV...B087258GNZ

[Image: HWsAYGwl.jpg]


Some questions i have for the wiring diagram:

1) Can i connect the BAT+ pad of my VTX to the 9V regulator on my FC in stead of BAT+ and is this better? According to the input voltage of the VTX (7-27V i think i can also use the 9V pad)

2) I connected the input power for the camera to the 5V pad of the VTX but the camera can also take Vbat (input voltage 4,7 - 15V). Is it better to leave it like this or to thin the red wires of the camera and VTX together and connect them to BAT+ or the 9V regulator on the FC?


3) I linked the GND wire from the VTX and the camera to the GND pad on the FC, but since the VTX is currently connected to the BAT+ pad, i could also connect the GRD wires to the BAT-. BAT- ad GRD are the same right

-> is this wiring good enough?

Really appreciate your feedback!
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#2
The wiring all looks good with exception of the RSSI wire. You don't need the dedicated RSSI wire connected for an XM+. That is for legacy setups. As long as you have the RSSI firmware installed on it the RSSI values will be passed to the FC over the SBUS connection either on Channel 8 (AUX4) or Channel 16 (AUX12).

The VTX can be connected to the 9V pad on the FC rather than BAT+ if you want to. You will get a better filtered voltage using the 9V pad. When using BAT+ the voltage can be susceptible to voltage spikes from the LiPo. The specs of the VTX state that it draws up to 250mA of current when set to it's max power output of 200mW. The 9V pad on the FC states that it can supply 1.2A of current, so almost 5 times what the VTX can demand. I would therefore use the 9V pad for the VTX.

I would connect the camera to 5V rather then BAT+, again for the reason that the supply voltage will be filtered. There are no specs as to what current the camera draws but the 5V regulator on the FC can supply up to 3A and the 5V regulator on the VTX can supply 1A. So either will be fine because the camera is going to draw milliamps at most. I would use whichever makes the wiring the neatest.

All ground pads (including the BAT- pad) are connected to the same ground plane so it doesn't matter which ones you use. To keep video noise to a minimum it is recommended that you connect both the VTX and camera ground wires as close to each other as possible (either the same pad or GND pads that are close to each other).
[-] The following 1 user Likes SnowLeopardFPV's post:
  • chenchela_123
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#3
Thumbs Up 
(10-Jun-2022, 01:50 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: The wiring all looks good with exception of the RSSI wire. You don't need the dedicated RSSI wire connected for an XM+. That is for legacy setups. As long as you have the RSSI firmware installed on it the RSSI values will be passed to the FC over the SBUS connection either on Channel 8 (AUX4) or Channel 16 (AUX12).

The VTX can be connected to the 9V pad on the FC rather than BAT+ if you want to. You will get a better filtered voltage using the 9V pad. When using BAT+ the voltage can be susceptible to voltage spikes from the LiPo. The specs of the VTX state that it draws up to 250mA of current when set to it's max power output of 200mW. The 9V pad on the FC states that it can supply 1.2A of current, so almost 5 times what the VTX can demand. I would therefore use the 9V pad for the VTX.

I would connect the camera to 5V rather then BAT+, again for the reason that the supply voltage will be filtered. There are no specs as to what current the camera draws but the 5V regulator on the FC can supply up to 3A and the 5V regulator on the VTX can supply 1A. So either will be fine because the camera is going to draw milliamps at most. I would use whichever makes the wiring the neatest.

All ground pads (including the BAT- pad) are connected to the same ground plane so it doesn't matter which ones you use. To keep video noise to a minimum it is recommended that you connect both the VTX and camera ground wires as close to each other as possible (either the same pad or GND pads that are close to each other).

Thank you SnowLeopardFPV! Really appreciate your clear feedback!

I rearranged the BAT+ to 9V for the VTX and removed the RSSI link:

[Image: g22OEp9l.jpg]
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#4
Hand drawn wiring diagram.. brings back memories of my first 2019 build.

FC could make oopsies less likely.
The live 5V pads should be square... diff shape.

No harm if you ground signal wire.
[-] The following 1 user Likes romangpro's post:
  • chenchela_123
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#5
I did the same hand drawing plan for my first build and the rest is history.

Brings back memories.
[-] The following 2 users Like kafie1980's post:
  • Lemonyleprosy, chenchela_123
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#6
forgot to ask: I have a 4 in one ESC with a CRNT JST cable plug but on the FC, i dont have a CRNT as a JST plug.
Can i solder the JST plug for CRNT from the ESC directly on the CURT pad (see image above) of the FC?

ESC = https://m.racerstar.com/anniversary-spec...p-254.html
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#7
(14-Jun-2022, 08:38 AM)chenchela_123 Wrote: Can i solder the JST plug for CRNT from the ESC directly on the CURT pad (see image above) of the FC?

Yes you can Smile
[-] The following 1 user Likes SnowLeopardFPV's post:
  • chenchela_123
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#8
(14-Jun-2022, 09:11 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Yes you can Smile

Thanks!
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#9
I'm in Betaflight working on the Video Transmitter tab and i'm not sure about the type of my VTX (see above for type), whether it is Smartaudio or Tramp. I could not find anything on product description. When i select SmartAudio in ports tab then i cannot find the VTX in Transmitter tab (type is unknown and device ready is 'No'). But when i change in the ports tab the UART to "IRC Tramp" then in the Transmitter tab i find type is Tramp and Device ready is "Yes" but all other parameters in Current Values are either 0 or negative. Is this normal output?
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#10
Should be Tramp protocol.

Can you show a snapshot of your vtx table?
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#11
(01-Jan-2023, 05:25 AM)kafie1980 Wrote: Should be Tramp protocol.

Can you show a snapshot of your vtx table?

Do you mean the 48CH channel list?

[Image: 5doLEhtl.png]

[Image: T2cJ3Fnl.png]

I just noticed on the display it mentions 'Tramp'. I also searched but could not find any downloadable table to add to Betaflight for this VTX.
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#12
The 48 Channel list is standard and so nothing of concern there.

The power levels are important and tramp VTX tables are fairly simple to setup.

Did you try downloading the standard Tramp table and just deleting the unsupported power levels i.e. 400mW and 600mW?
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  • chenchela_123
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#13
Thanks @kafie1980, i managed to download the Tramp table and use them in Betaflight by downloading the standard VTX tables and removing the unsupported power levels. After doing this i noticed that the battery voltage indicator on the top of betaflight suddenly went down (see image) after some time after i updated the FC. Not sure whether it has anything to do with the changes i did with the Tramp table or that its just my battery voltage is low. Since i bought it, i have never flew with it so it was always in around storage mode.

[Image: VWDqSyol.png]
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#14
(14-Jun-2022, 09:11 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Yes you can Smile

thank you for your reply, i got same problem and now i solve this
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#15
(16-Jan-2023, 04:21 PM)chenchela_123 Wrote: Thanks @kafie1980, i managed to download the Tramp table and use them in Betaflight by downloading the standard VTX tables and removing the unsupported power levels. After doing this i noticed that the battery voltage indicator on the top of betaflight suddenly went down (see image) after some time after i updated the FC. Not sure whether it has anything to do with the changes i did with the Tramp table or that its just my battery voltage is low. Since i bought it, i have never flew with it so it was always in around storage mode.

[Image: VWDqSyol.png]

A lipo on storage charge is not going to last too long if your have been powering your quad for testing on the bench. Best you charge the lipo else you might dropping the voltage below acceptable levels.

The VTX tables should not have anything to do with the way Betaflight reads battery voltage.
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