Posts: 391 Threads: 23 Likes Received: 50 in 41 posts Likes Given: 56 Joined: Feb 2016 Reputation: 8 09-Sep-2016, 10:09 PM (This post was last modified: 09-Sep-2016, 10:09 PM by HamsterFPV.) (09-Sep-2016, 10:06 PM)jimbo_wa Wrote: Dumped the Tic Tac canopy and using a dipole in place of the clover leaf antenna as it kept destroying the rear props on crashing! ![[Image: rolleyes.gif]](http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
46g dry and 65g with the battery... Looks good, what props are those? Current quad: ZMR 250 / DYS SE2205 / Littlebee 20A ESCs / Drone Lab 1500 4S / Naze32 Rev5 / BF 2.7.1 FPV: Runcam Skyplus / Aomway 200mw VTX / Fatshark DomV1 >>>>>>>>>> Check Out My Build<<<<<<<<<< ![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 5,323 Threads: 674 Likes Received: 3,159 in 1,747 posts Likes Given: 2,032 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 09-Sep-2016, 10:24 PM (This post was last modified: 09-Sep-2016, 10:25 PM by Oscar.) (09-Sep-2016, 09:33 PM)Simon Wrote: Strangest thing, my wobbling whoopee was down to fc (blade nano qx). Works fine with hubsan fc. Nqx fc wobbles whilst in an inductrix/ TW frame also. Nqx fc works fine in same size builds (90-120mm) without ducts, I don't understand why ducts would make a difference to that fc? Are the motors spinning the same direction as the Hubsan FC? only thing I can think of would be how it's mounted...
(09-Sep-2016, 10:06 PM)jimbo_wa Wrote: Dumped the Tic Tac canopy and using a dipole in place of the clover leaf antenna as it kept destroying the rear props on crashing!
46g dry and 65g with the battery... 20g battery? that's heavy LOL what's your flight time on that?
(09-Sep-2016, 10:09 PM)HamsterFPV Wrote: Looks good, what props are those? I think they are lady bird  • Posts: 91 Threads: 10 Likes Received: 84 in 45 posts Likes Given: 105 Joined: Aug 2016 Reputation: 2 10-Sep-2016, 08:15 AM (This post was last modified: 12-Sep-2016, 09:22 AM by jimbo_wa.) (09-Sep-2016, 10:24 PM)Oscar Wrote: 20g battery? that's heavy LOL
what's your flight time on that?
Getting around 7:30-ish with the 750mAh 1s Nano-Tech - I need air time not crash and burn warp speed! Thanks HamsterFPV - the props are indeed Ladybird, but clones from Banggood, search for QR Ladybird-Z-01... • Posts: 6 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 0 15-Sep-2016, 06:19 PM (This post was last modified: 15-Sep-2016, 06:22 PM by Maelremrem.) Hello ! Thanks for your awesome work ! I ordered all of the componants but now they are here with me, I can't bind the SRP8 with my Taranis...
Can someone help me pls ?
Thanks !
PS : I printed myself the frame with my own 3D Printer in PLA and it take me 1h to print the big part (the frame itself) and 20mins to print the other pieces. • Posts: 5,323 Threads: 674 Likes Received: 3,159 in 1,747 posts Likes Given: 2,032 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 (15-Sep-2016, 06:19 PM)Maelremrem Wrote: Hello ! Thanks for your awesome work ! I ordered all of the componants but now they are here with me, I can't bind the SRP8 with my Taranis...
Can someone help me pls ? what Taranis firmware do you have? It's not compaitble EU and LBT firmware. • Posts: 6 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 0 15-Sep-2016, 07:33 PM (This post was last modified: 15-Sep-2016, 07:43 PM by Maelremrem.) (15-Sep-2016, 07:03 PM)Oscar Wrote: what Taranis firmware do you have?
It's not compaitble EU and LBT firmware. My taranis FW is 2.1.9 (just updated) How can I see that ? I can change to D8 on my model settings, is that ok ? • Posts: 6 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 0 15-Sep-2016, 08:44 PM (This post was last modified: 15-Sep-2016, 09:32 PM by Maelremrem.) After some more researches I flashed my internal module with a non EU FW but I still can't bind the SRP8 :/
And I realised that the Acc is now off :O
I just want to presice : it's my first build x) • Posts: 5,323 Threads: 674 Likes Received: 3,159 in 1,747 posts Likes Given: 2,032 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 16-Sep-2016, 01:22 AM (This post was last modified: 16-Sep-2016, 11:29 AM by Oscar.) how are you binding the RX? Here is how i do it
0. on your taranis, set Internal RF - Mode to D8, Channel Range CH1-8, now switch off TX
1. hold down the bind button on the SRP8 RX
2. power up the quad, and RX, now RX should be in bind mode (LED stays on no flashing), you can now release the bind button
3. turn on Taranis, and put it into Bind mode
4. give it 10 seconds, now switch off Taranis, and disconnect LiPo on the quad (so RX is power off)
5. now turn on quad and taranis and they should be bound (RX LED stays on) if not repeat the process... if the LED stays on but you can't control the quad please check your TX channels • Posts: 918 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 533 in 271 posts Likes Given: 498 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 30 16-Sep-2016, 01:47 AM (This post was last modified: 16-Sep-2016, 11:28 AM by Oscar.) (16-Sep-2016, 01:22 AM)Oscar Wrote: how are you binding the RX? Here is how i do it
0. on your taranis, set Internal RF - Mode to D8, Channel Range CH1-8, now switch off TX
1. hold down the bind button on the SRP8 RX
2. power up the quad, and RX, now RX should be in bind mode (LED stays on no flashing)
3. turn on Taranis, and put it into Bind mode
4. give it 10 seconds, now switch off Taranis, and disconnect LiPo on the quad (so RX is power off)
5. now turn on quad and taranis and they should be bound (RX LED stays on) if not repeat the process... if the LED stays on but you can't control the quad please check your TX channels If that fails, take 2 asprin and call your doctor. • Posts: 6 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 0 16-Sep-2016, 06:36 AM (This post was last modified: 16-Sep-2016, 07:30 AM by Maelremrem.) (16-Sep-2016, 01:22 AM)Oscar Wrote: how are you binding the RX? Here is how i do it
0. on your taranis, set Internal RF - Mode to D8, Channel Range CH1-8, now switch off TX
1. hold down the bind button on the SRP8 RX
2. power up the quad, and RX, now RX should be in bind mode (LED flashing)
3. turn on Taranis, and put it into Bind mode
4. give it 10 seconds, now switch off Taranis, and disconnect LiPo on the quad (so RX is power off)
5. now turn on quad and taranis and they should be bound, if not repeat the process When I power up the quad with the bind button down (2.) , the led is just solid, even if I stay the button down after the power up of if I release it when the led turn ON, it doesn't matter. But if I don't press the bind button, the led is flashing ! This is why I don't understand :/ Btw if I power up the FC and the RX with the battery, some motors are spining. I will make a short video to show you.
And the video : • Posts: 5,323 Threads: 674 Likes Received: 3,159 in 1,747 posts Likes Given: 2,032 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 sorry actually that's right, the LED stays on when it's in bind mode i just tested it myself and updated my instructions.
You can release the bind button once the RX is in bind mode, and you need to power on Taranis and put it into bind mode as well, leave it 10 seconds then power off both. • Posts: 6 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 0 (16-Sep-2016, 11:30 AM)Oscar Wrote: sorry actually that's right, the LED stays on when it's in bind mode i just tested it myself and updated my instructions.
You can release the bind button once the RX is in bind mode, and you need to power on Taranis and put it into bind mode as well, leave it 10 seconds then power off both. I followed your updated instruction and when I put the taranis in bind mode, the led switched off. After 10 sec, I switched off both the taranis and the quad and repower up. The led is flashing and no input. ![[Image: GeyQ0zgl.png]](http://i.imgur.com/GeyQ0zgl.png) ![[Image: Y7yEqmWl.png]](http://i.imgur.com/Y7yEqmWl.png) • Posts: 6 Threads: 0 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Sep 2016 Reputation: 0 16-Sep-2016, 01:49 PM (This post was last modified: 16-Sep-2016, 02:36 PM by Maelremrem.) After a while I re-done all the "new" steps and finally I get telemetry data  Thanks !
I'm back with another problem, the red led on the fc blink slowly and after 10 sec blink fast. I don't know how to arm. I see on the web to use the stick http://open-txu.org/wp-content/uploads/2...itions.png but it does nothing also when the FC is powered by an USB cable the RX is not "connected" to my taranis • Posts: 91 Threads: 10 Likes Received: 84 in 45 posts Likes Given: 105 Joined: Aug 2016 Reputation: 2 Oscar - I've been really enjoying the Whoopee, but need to know which glue to use when a layer de-laminates?
One of the nacelles has split (horizontally) thanks to a hard crash and I think using a soldering iron would deform the 3D print too much...
Hopefully CA, Gorilla Glue or Shoo-glue will be OK? • Posts: 5,323 Threads: 674 Likes Received: 3,159 in 1,747 posts Likes Given: 2,032 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 139 (03-Oct-2016, 10:59 AM)jimbo_wa Wrote: Oscar - I've been really enjoying the Whoopee, but need to know which glue to use when a layer de-laminates?
One of the nacelles has split (horizontally) thanks to a hard crash and I think using a soldering iron would deform the 3D print too much...
Hopefully CA, Gorilla Glue or Shoo-glue will be OK? I think any super glue should do the job nicely.. Maybe with a little piece of paper to enhance it |
