(09-Oct-2021, 10:44 AM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: that looks good :-) proceed :-)

you can spread the legs of the capacitator a bit additional

luckily, thanks 

what do you mean with spread the legs of the capacitator ?

they should't go in contact...

for engines cables can be fine if i do like that:
https://i.imgur.com/u7sDXzZ.jpg

i cut the cable, I removed the sheath, being careful not to damage the cable inside, I turned it on itself so that it becomes hard and compact and does not fray, then I slipped it into the hole already present, it seems to be done on purpose ... so then in a single moment I melt on it the tin and does the welding process end?

You can definitely tell from the dulled surface of the solder that you are either using poor quality solder or not enough flux, but it will do for a first effort so I wouldn't bother trying to re-do it. This is what people are talk about when they say to buy a high quality decent brand of solder and to use lots of additional flux.

(09-Oct-2021, 11:34 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: You can definitely tell from the dulled surface of the solder that you are either using poor quality solder or not enough flux, but it will do for a first effort so I wouldn't bother trying to re-do it. This is what people are talk about when they say to buy a high quality decent brand of solder and to use lots of additional flux.

Unfortunatly i don't have additional flux to use but i use only the flux from the tin 

i have to buy also flux, to be used separately, in those big welds it makes all the difference but in much smaller where you can be faster you can also do with the only flux inside the tin.

that can be fine for future works ?

https://www.amazon.it/InfoCoste-Pasta-pe...B087TLBPRT

https://www.amazon.it/Kemper-B090PASNE1-...B087TLBPRT

-------------

for the welding of the motor cables can i do as i wrote in the message above ?
https://intofpv.com/t-i-can-t-remove-the...#pid155720

(09-Oct-2021, 10:15 AM)Rosssiiii Wrote: the only problem I noticed was that the xt60 cable that I had used in the past to do some welding tests has hardened a bit

That is because the power wires are densely packed with tiny wires and is acting like solder wick. You've got to be cautious when feeding solder into a wire like that. Particularly when working with battery wires or ESC power as it will probably travel up the wire for several inches if you let it. While it may be fine for some projects, you don't want your battery cables to be all stiff and crunchy. 

Example of solder wick in action, I highly recommend this stuff to have on hand for touchups:

(09-Oct-2021, 12:46 PM)Rosssiiii Wrote: Unfortunatly i don't have additional flux to use but i use only the flux from the tin 

i have to buy also flux, to be used separately, in those big welds it makes all the difference but in much smaller where you can be faster you can also do with the only flux inside the tin.

that can be fine for future works ?

https://www.amazon.it/InfoCoste-Pasta-pe...B087TLBPRT

https://www.amazon.it/Kemper-B090PASNE1-...B087TLBPRT

-------------

for the welding of the motor cables can i do as i wrote in the message above ?
https://intofpv.com/t-i-can-t-remove-the...#pid155720

@hugnosed_bat
@iFly4rotors
@snowleopard

Can i proceed to weld the motors as i descripted before?

because usually in the videos on youtube:

1) put the tin on the pad;
2) put the tin on the cable;

3) they heat up the pad and put the cable on top to join them together;

while considering that I have already placed the wire in the hole on the esc pad ( https://i.imgur.com/eRGn7Z7.png ), I would no longer want to move the cable but simply pour some tin there so that it joins it with the pad.

because as did above would be more difficult...but if is a good way to do i will do.

i hope to have explained well what i mean;

(09-Oct-2021, 08:55 PM)Rosssiiii Wrote: Can i proceed to weld the motors as i descripted before?

because usually in the videos on youtube:

1) put the tin on the pad;
2) put the tin on the cable;

3) they heat up the pad and put the cable on top to join them together;

while considering that I have already placed the wire in the hole on the esc pad ( https://i.imgur.com/eRGn7Z7.png ), I would no longer want to move the cable but simply pour some tin there so that it joins it with the pad.

because as did above would be more difficult...but if is a good way to do i will do.

Yes, you can do it the way you show in your picture but you really need additional flux to do it like that so the solder flows nicely and creates a good joint. You put flux on the wire and also on the pad and in the hole. then heat up the wire/pad together with the tinned tip of your soldering iron and feed solder into the joint.

If you don't have additional flux then I would do it the traditional way by tinning the pad and wire separately, then soldering them together. The wire won't then be going through the hole if you do it the traditional way but it doesn't actually matter because the way you are routing the wires you don't need any mechanical strength on the solder joints that through-hole soldering provides.

(10-Oct-2021, 12:24 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Yes, you can do it the way you show in your picture but you really need additional flux to do it like that so the solder flows nicely and creates a good joint. You put flux on the wire and also on the pad and in the hole. then heat up the wire/pad together with the tinned tip of your soldering iron and feed solder into the joint.

If you don't have additional flux then I would do it the traditional way by tinning the pad and wire separately, then soldering them together. The wire won't then be going through the hole if you do it the traditional way but it doesn't actually matter because the way you are routing the wires you don't need any mechanical strength on the solder joints that through-hole soldering provides.

Unfortunatly i don't have flux separated from the tin.

1)So doing with the traditional way, i could put some tin on the pad in advance, covering it all but without close the hole and put some tin on the wire and place it in the hole, and then add more tin so that they both join?

2)i think it is not necessary to have tin at the bottom of the pad as well, because cable will not reach that point?

3) do you think i have removed too much cover from the cable?
https://i.imgur.com/pOJPmRC.jpg

if yes i will do more attentions for other cables

3)i would just solder it on top of the pad, not throw the hole. therefor it would be to long for my taste, 2mm seems good to me. at least as much as the wirecore diameter is.

1) dont mention it as traditional without additional flux.. flux was it which made the bronze age, it was inefficiency or close to impossible, flux gave the ability to melt copper on lower temp. flux was essential in human history, way befor any electronics. flux is a basic for how we can deal with metal in general :-)
get flux ;-)

2) if you pre tin the pad, if its heated up properly some tin will flow on the bottom side of the pad anyway, it will indicate good flown solder, but there is no need for tin on both sides.

Hi Rosssiiii,

Yeah, it looks good to proceed, however,  I would strongly consider getting some flux first.  

Also, I solder it in the "traditional" way; I would not put the wire through the hole without additional flux.

{Edit: copy from PM}

Hi Rosssiiii,
You have not removed too much insulation. The exposed wire length looks about right to me.  

It will be easier if you solder like a standard pad...and do NOT put the wire in the hole.
Tin all of the pads and all of the wires before you start attaching them. To make the actual
connection, put the tinned wire right on top of the tinned pad and use the soldering iron to 
apply light pressure. When the melting point is reached the wire will sink into the solder on 
the pad, remove heat and hold {I usually use tweezers to hold the wire} in place until solid. 

By the way, your XT60 battery lead wire and capacitor mounting looks just fine.    

Looks like you will have this Wizard back in the air pretty soon.  


P.S. 

I also use that blue temporary "tack" putty to hold wires while I solder them.

(10-Oct-2021, 10:51 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: 3)i would just solder it on top of the pad, not throw the hole. therefor it would be to long for my taste, 2mm seems good to me. at least as much as the wirecore diameter is.

1) dont mention it as traditional without additional flux..  flux was it which made the bronze age, it was inefficiency or close to impossible, flux gave the ability to melt copper on lower temp. flux was essential in human history, way befor any electronics. flux is a basic for how we can deal with metal in general :-)
get flux ;-)

2) if you pre tin the pad, if its heated up properly some tin will flow on the bottom side of the pad anyway, it will indicate good flown solder, but there is no need for tin on both sides.

(11-Oct-2021, 02:43 AM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Hi Rosssiiii,

Yeah, it looks good to proceed, however,  I would strongly consider getting some flux first.  

Also, I solder it in the "traditional" way; I would not put the wire through the hole without additional flux.

Hello

thanks again for the support

Yeah but i don't consider traditional without flux at all but i meat to use only the flux inside the tin cable that should be enough for a much smaller cable like that.
anyway i will buy for sure flux.

https://i.imgur.com/zeQzx5j.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sCDus1Z.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/w4v2jZ8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qBFyvQd.jpg

i have completed the work, let's hope will be fine, is not been easy at the start because i wished to have 3 hand...never like this time, harder then the xt60

Hi Rosssiiii,

Looks good