Posts: 664 Threads: 121 Likes Received: 24 in 23 posts Likes Given: 490 Joined: Apr 2021 Reputation: 0 06-Oct-2021, 10:42 AM (This post was last modified: 09-Oct-2021, 08:57 PM by Rosssiiii.) Hello  i'm having difficulty to remove the tin from the xt60 cable connected to my old PDB...all other cables is been easy to remove it was enough to place the soldering iron and pull with tweezers, but for that is been so difficult ! https://i.imgur.com/kb6MoMz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/btZNZhx.jpg https://i.imgur.com/fewv3lF.jpg is normal that for that is so more difficult ? solder was at 400° C while for other i used also 350°C ![[-]](https://intofpv.com/images/collapse.png) • Posts: 21,283 Threads: 587 Likes Received: 8,973 in 6,640 posts Likes Given: 1,425 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 789 Those large high current pads suck all the heat away from the soldering iron tip, especially the GND pad, so you need to be using a high wattage soldering iron (at least 60W) with a large tip and the temperature cranked up to around 450°C. Posts: 6,114 Threads: 172 Likes Received: 2,286 in 1,833 posts Likes Given: 4,737 Joined: Feb 2019 Reputation: 100 set high temperature as its more mass, dont touch the blank wire with the teezer - it absorbs all the heat.
use flux or add a bit of fresh solder on top, to improve heat transmission.
increased heat only should solve that, if you arent able to, you will need another solder iron. • Posts: 664 Threads: 121 Likes Received: 24 in 23 posts Likes Given: 490 Joined: Apr 2021 Reputation: 0 (06-Oct-2021, 10:53 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Those large high current pads suck all the heat away from the soldering iron tip, especially the GND pad, so you need to be using a high wattage soldering iron (at least 60W) with a large tip and the temperature cranked up to around 450°C. which of these tips? https://i.imgur.com/IFudH0m.jpg so far i used the one much at right side... but is normal that all the PDB it has a bit of heat, nothing that cannot be held in the hand ... the only part that is more hot is the most close to where you work and in the case of the xt60 pads the cable is hot like it assorbe all the heat ! • Posts: 21,283 Threads: 587 Likes Received: 8,973 in 6,640 posts Likes Given: 1,425 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 789 (06-Oct-2021, 11:00 AM)Rosssiiii Wrote: which of these tips?
https://i.imgur.com/IFudH0m.jpg
so far i used the one much at right side...
but is normal that all the PDB it has a bit of heat, nothing that cannot be held in the hand ... the only part that is more hot is the most close to where you work and in the case of the xt60 pads the cable is hot like it assorbe all the heat ! Use the middle (chisel) tip out of those three. Looking at the photos you have now added to your original post, you aren't getting enough flow on the solder. You need more heat with the addition of some flux and extra solder on the tip of the iron to aid heat transfer as hugnosed_bat already mentioned. • Posts: 664 Threads: 121 Likes Received: 24 in 23 posts Likes Given: 490 Joined: Apr 2021 Reputation: 0 06-Oct-2021, 11:55 AM (This post was last modified: 06-Oct-2021, 11:56 AM by Rosssiiii.) (06-Oct-2021, 11:04 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Use the middle (chisel) tip out of those three.
Looking at the photos you have now added to your original post, you aren't getting enough flow on the solder. You need more heat with the addition of some flux and extra solder on the tip of the iron to aid heat transfer as hugnosed_bat already mentioned. Ok now i finally removed both cables, but for the black one is been so difficult, it was so deeply connected...when i weld it on the new esc, i don't think it is necessary to put it that deep ? that is the PDB at moment: https://i.imgur.com/ULHjhMP.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tL5cM5y.jpg https://i.imgur.com/hBPfx2y.jpg look how much solder there is deposited here: https://i.imgur.com/FWQSxZ1.png i could a bit remove it using that: https://i.imgur.com/13394XS.jpg even if i think is not necessary remove all it. What do you think about PDB conditions after this morning work on it: https://i.imgur.com/uXoM5Gr.png could be still good ? • Posts: 16 Threads: 3 Likes Received: 2 in 2 posts Likes Given: 6 Joined: Aug 2021 Reputation: 0 06-Oct-2021, 12:28 PM (This post was last modified: 06-Oct-2021, 12:30 PM by Saikred.) (06-Oct-2021, 11:55 AM)Rosssiiii Wrote: Ok now i finally removed both cables, but for the black one is been so difficult, it was so deeply connected...when i weld it on the new esc, i don't think it is necessary to put it that deep ? From what I've seen others do, often the wire isn't embedded in the PCB Holes, It'd be better if it was, but should be perfectly ok if it's really well soldered on top, (Seems to be what I have seen more of in my research). But you want the wires, to have Solder flowing Fully into them, and making full contact with the pad. Generally the more the merrier here, so long as it's not spreading somewhere it shouldn't. As others have said, these pad's are made to conduct a lot of power, so they run deeply throughout the board, and will take a while to heat up properly. But pre tin the wire again, and the PCB. (06-Oct-2021, 11:55 AM)Rosssiiii Wrote: What do you think about PDB conditions after this morning work on it:
https://i.imgur.com/uXoM5Gr.png
could be still good ? I'm no expert on this, but I'd guess so, though that does look like solder on the edge of the PCB as you've highlighted. (I believe different layers of the PCB do positive/negative, and if im right there you REALLY don't want them touching.) To be safe I'd actually use a Multimeter, and check the conductivity between positive and negative, and make sure they aren't connected at all. • Posts: 6,114 Threads: 172 Likes Received: 2,286 in 1,833 posts Likes Given: 4,737 Joined: Feb 2019 Reputation: 100 06-Oct-2021, 12:46 PM (This post was last modified: 06-Oct-2021, 12:48 PM by hugnosed_bat.) you should train soldering on your solder iron befor you step to the brand new esc. try to let it flow to eachother in a short time, try minimize the heatup to the board.
solder them a few times back to the pcb, until it works good and you feel comfortable to it. • Posts: 21,283 Threads: 587 Likes Received: 8,973 in 6,640 posts Likes Given: 1,425 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 789 To remove large amounts of excess solder you need to heat the solder to a liquid and then use a solder sucker... https://www.amazon.it/dp/B000LFTN4S To clean small amounts of excess solder from pads you to use solder wick... https://www.amazon.it/HAKKO-stoppino-pul...B07N2T2SVQ Soldering through holes isn't always necessary but it will create a stronger mechanical joint and stop joints breaking apart or pads being accidentally ripped from the board if the wires are pulled hard (i.e. if the LiPo gets ejected from the quad in a crash). Posts: 664 Threads: 121 Likes Received: 24 in 23 posts Likes Given: 490 Joined: Apr 2021 Reputation: 0 (06-Oct-2021, 12:28 PM)Saikred Wrote: From what I've seen others do, often the wire isn't embedded in the PCB Holes, It'd be better if it was, but should be perfectly ok if it's really well soldered on top, (Seems to be what I have seen more of in my research). But you want the wires, to have Solder flowing Fully into them, and making full contact with the pad. Generally the more the merrier here, so long as it's not spreading somewhere it shouldn't.
As others have said, these pad's are made to conduct a lot of power, so they run deeply throughout the board, and will take a while to heat up properly. But pre tin the wire again, and the PCB.
I'm no expert on this, but I'd guess so, though that does look like solder on the edge of the PCB as you've highlighted. (I believe different layers of the PCB do positive/negative, and if im right there you REALLY don't want them touching.)
To be safe I'd actually use a Multimeter, and check the conductivity between positive and negative, and make sure they aren't connected at all. What battery i need to let work my multimeter ? https://i.imgur.com/qzJ9ClR.jpg not normal battery  • Posts: 21,283 Threads: 587 Likes Received: 8,973 in 6,640 posts Likes Given: 1,425 Joined: Jun 2018 Reputation: 789 (06-Oct-2021, 01:18 PM)Rosssiiii Wrote: What battery i need to let work my multimeter ?
https://i.imgur.com/qzJ9ClR.jpg
not normal battery That requires a rectangular 9V battery. Posts: 771 Threads: 5 Likes Received: 443 in 325 posts Likes Given: 209 Joined: May 2021 Reputation: 14 Another issue that will ruin your soldering experience is cheap tips. For instance the popular Hakko brand like the one sitting over Bardwell's shoulder in his videos. Genuine Hakko tips for that model are $10-12 for a single tip but you'll find a pack of 8 or 10 for for the same price. Now maybe they're great for a short time but the problem is they'll always fail you at the worst time and piss you off. Or burn up perfectly good components.
Don't cheap out on tools you intend to use more than once. Support good brands like Hakko that make genuinely good gear, not this junk that has a fake brand name on it. Posts: 664 Threads: 121 Likes Received: 24 in 23 posts Likes Given: 490 Joined: Apr 2021 Reputation: 0 06-Oct-2021, 03:39 PM (This post was last modified: 06-Oct-2021, 05:55 PM by Rosssiiii.) (06-Oct-2021, 12:46 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: you should train soldering on your solder iron befor you step to the brand new esc. try to let it flow to eachother in a short time, try minimize the heatup to the board.
solder them a few times back to the pcb, until it works good and you feel comfortable to it. i did lot training, so steps are: 1) put some tin on the end of the cable that we want to solder; 2) put some tin on the ESC pad, keep the solder on it and make it melt and later connect close the cable i want to solder ? - but how i can understand how much quantity of tin i have to put on the pad ? - quicker mean have brilliant welds, but if there is some impurity will work anyway ? (ok important mean that there are no two pads under the same welding) 3) if i see that is a bit black or there is not enough solder to incorporate the cable, can I add more tin? A) Please indicate me your favourite soldering tutorial,very clearn, i saw so many video that i did confusion ! that is an example of soldering, enough quick at 400°C: https://i.imgur.com/v7DwJN2.jpg but sometimes happen that i have to add more till on pads because there is not enough, every time i clean it with pump, so when i start i try to think that pad is like new... B) how i can remove that substance that seems liquid (I don't remeber the name): https://i.imgur.com/TmzxR3L.jpg some of that was already there before i started to do soldering this morning • Posts: 664 Threads: 121 Likes Received: 24 in 23 posts Likes Given: 490 Joined: Apr 2021 Reputation: 0 • Posts: 6,114 Threads: 172 Likes Received: 2,286 in 1,833 posts Likes Given: 4,737 Joined: Feb 2019 Reputation: 100 "- but how i can understand how much quantity of tin i have to put on the pad ?
- quicker mean have brilliant welds, but if there is some impurity will work anyway ? (ok important mean that there are no two pads under the same welding)
3) if i see that is a bit black or there is not enough solder to incorporate the cable, can I add more tin?"
thats somehow experience, it also depends on your gear... you should train exactly for this: knowing how much heat it needs to melt it in short time, how much tin....
the solder looks good on your picture, but isnt it a smaller wire? the most difficult might be lipo cables.
in the video it looks still like not enough heat.
on minute 1:20 , you touch the solder but it doesnt melt. that would need some fresch solder on top with flux in it or raw flux on top, it improves heat transfer, you need less heat and it melts faster.
than you clean your tip, what is a good thing but go straight forwart to the solder joint. a spongh with water does cool down the tip a lot, to get good heat controll give it a few seconds after cleaning to heat up again.
befor you added the pump, you touched the solderpad multiple times. that does heatup the pad and the flux goes int damp - 1 single time heatup, add the tip to the pad, when it melt press it a littlebit more into it - half a second and it should be melted well... no heat again until it got cold again. start fresh with a single heatup if it didnt work as it should at first.
presolder the pad is most easy, place the tip onto the pad and stay while adding solder - take it away after the solder did melt into every corner of the pad the same way.
the last soldering looks good :-) good melting :-) take care to take the tip "fast" away, dont stay on top.
its an on/off work, dont give half heat, dont touch solder joints a little bit - always full or not.
as a additional tran, get some impressions about the heat area of your tip, the flat part will give the best heat transfer while the round part wont transfer as good... maybe impressions about that makes it more easy
all of that wont work if your iron has the wrong temp, it looks like you should increase the heat.
seems you dont have flux? get some, it makes the job for you mostly, thats the best and most important advise i van give you :-)
personal i dont use or like the pump, i use that "copper wire thing?" to remove solder on difficult positions. regulary i stripe the liquid solder away from the board, take care if you try it: its hot, its liquid, dont spread liquid solder on the electronics, that could destroy it.
i told everything where i saw an improvement, no need for perfection, but i would suggest to try a bigger wire as training, you might get more impressions about your iron and how it heats. |
