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Tyro 79
#16
I can't find a useful manual for that FC, but if I had to take a punt I'd say that the extra pin is probably TX1, since there's a couple of UART1 pads next to it. That means you need to set UART1 in Betaflight to Smart Audio, save it and then try to change your settings via the OSD.

If that doesn't work then you could try taking a wire from the DATA on the VTX to TX1 on the flight controller. That would remove all doubt!

By the way, all of this is assuming you're using SBUS for your receiver.

The ground is for dead people.
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#17
thanks banelle!
in fact the big problem is that I don't find a minimum of documentation for these components, otherwise a few more attempts could do it alone.

Yes for now I am using SBUS, but I would like to use Fport following the other tread in this forum,
it should work anyway, or am I wrong?
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#18
The FC used on the Tyro79 is almost identical to the one used on the Eachine X140HV with some very minor differences. The X140HV comes fitted with the same VTX and pre-configured with SmartAudio already switched on.

The extra pin on the 4-pin connector at the FC end that you already have the yellow wire hooked into is the TX connection for UART2. You therefore just need to leave everything wired as is and run the following commands in the CLI. This will switch on "TBS SmartAudio" for UART2.

Code:
serial 1 2048 115200 57600 0 115200
save

And if you want to make the installation even neater you can de-solder the yellow wire from the DATA pad on the VTX and connect it to the last pin in the 6-pin connector (next to the white wire). That pin is connected to the DATA pad.
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#19
(28-May-2019, 06:14 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: The FC used on the Tyro79 is almost identical to the one used on the Eachine X140HV with some very minor differences. The X140HV comes fitted with the same VTX and pre-configured with SmartAudio already switched on.

The extra pin on the 4-pin connector at the FC end that you already have the yellow wire hooked into is the TX connection for UART2. You therefore just need to leave everything wired as is and run the following commands in the CLI. This will switch on "TBS SmartAudio" for UART2.

Code:
serial 1 2048 115200 57600 0 115200
save

And if you want to make the installation even neater you can de-solder the yellow wire from the DATA pad on the VTX and connect it to the last pin in the 6-pin connector (next to the white wire). That pin is connected to the DATA pad.

The 'manual' for the Tyro79 currently on Banggood reckons that SBUS is on UART2. Although there's every chance that's wrong ...

The ground is for dead people.
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#20
(28-May-2019, 07:16 PM)Banelle Wrote: The 'manual' for the Tyro79 currently on Banggood reckons that SBUS is on UART2. Although there's every chance that's wrong ...

Unless Eachine have started using a different FC on the Tyro79 then it looks like the manual is incorrect, which of course isn't very helpful for the type of people who are likely to be building a Tyro.

Looking at Scott's screenshot of the Ports tab of Betaflight Configurator in the following post it only shows two available UARTs which seems to tally up with the available UART pads on the board, and UART1 is configured for Serial RX (SBUS). This is the same as per the FC used on the X140HV.

https://intofpv.com/t-pre-build-tyro79-questions-fport

@OP - can you please confirm if you see UART1, 2 & 3 in the Ports tab, or do you only see UART1 & 2?
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#21
(28-May-2019, 06:14 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: The FC used on the Tyro79 is almost identical to the one used on the Eachine X140HV with some very minor differences. The X140HV comes fitted with the same VTX and pre-configured with SmartAudio already switched on.

The extra pin on the 4-pin connector at the FC end that you already have the yellow wire hooked into is the TX connection for UART2. You therefore just need to leave everything wired as is and run the following commands in the CLI. This will switch on "TBS SmartAudio" for UART2.

Code:
serial 1 2048 115200 57600 0 115200
save

And if you want to make the installation even neater you can de-solder the yellow wire from the DATA pad on the VTX and connect it to the last pin in the 6-pin connector (next to the white wire). That pin is connected to the DATA pad.

Thanks Snow,
the yellow cable was not present, I added it, there was an empty seat, unfortunately I had an old cable with the connector on one side only, and the other side I had to weld.
I have tried and everything seems to work.
Before I didn't realize that I had to check if I could change the parameters of the vtx, I looked at the OSD in general.
Now I can change channel and power, remains in memory.

what is not stored is OP MODEL, it remains on free and does not store RACE (I don't know what it is but I was trying to save it),

and PIT FMODE remains "---" and does not store PIR.

[Image: YpE9shwl.jpg]

also in the STATX page it seems to me that it does not save the changes ONL V2, ONL V1, OFFL, I think it remains on V2, but I don't know what it is for.

[Image: LjlrDN6l.jpg]

these are the settings of my doors

[Image: x5vFzfLl.png]
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#22
That VTX doesn't appear to support PIT MODE so that probably explains why you can't set it to either PIR or POR. There is certainly nothing in the documentation or specifications for that VTX stating that PIT mode is supported.

It's also possible that the VTX only supports the "FREE" OP MODEL and so won't allow you so save "RACE" as a value. Either that or the Betaflight VTX settings may be overriding anything you change it to. I wouldn't worry too much because using "FREE" gives you full control over whether you want to use CHANNEL (where you specify a frequency by using a band and a channel), or FREQUENCY (where you specify the frequency directly without needing to use band or channel selections).

I don't believe the STATUS value is supposed to persist if you change the value of it. Information on the "SA STATS" page are just viewable communication statistic values for troubleshooting any problems.
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#23
Snow, thank you for your patience Smile
Yes indeed it is not important for me to change, I have the habit of breaking into all the functions and trying ...
I was disturbed by the fact that I could choose the various settings but I could not save them, look but not touch ...
I liked the idea of having PIR so that I could minimize VTX when flying on sight, transmitting less radio waves and saving battery.
but it doesn't matter Smile
[Image: XlvsQ7bl.jpg]
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#24
(28-May-2019, 07:39 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Unless Eachine have started using a different FC on the Tyro79 then it looks like the manual is incorrect, which of course isn't very helpful for the type of people who are likely to be building a Tyro.

Yuck. Wrong information is even worse than no information.

Glad you guys sorted it out!

The ground is for dead people.
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#25
I'm back!
I was looking for information about the bearings of these motor.
As an official nothing, I saw that a bangood user writes 3x7x3; 3x6x2.5 but no other features.
since after a lot of blows a backlash was formed, I would like to replace it.
Is it worth it to put the top bearing semi ceramic?
what do you advise me?

thankssss
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#26
I have not abused any of my motors enough ( yet ) to think about bearings. But if the damage was caused by crashing I am not sure I would invest in new bearings without really going over the rest of the motor. Is anything bent, deformed or otherwise questionable ? I would for sure if the motor just had excessive hours on it but if they took a lot of hits I might lean towards replacing the whole motor.

Just this noobs opinion Smile

Scott
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#27
no, no deformation, just a slight backlash.
I thought of replacing the bearings only because they cost very little on aliexpress, I would have liked to try.

I hope I can put the link to show you.
maybe these are so scarce that it's not worth the game

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/10Pcs-Hig...Title=true

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/2017-new-...Title=true
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#28
(02-Jun-2019, 09:43 AM)Corrado-c Wrote: no, no deformation, just a slight backlash.
I thought of replacing the bearings only because they cost very little on aliexpress, I would have liked to try.

I hope I can put the link to show you.
maybe these are so scarce that it's not worth the game

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/10Pcs-Hig...Title=true

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/2017-new-...Title=true

Also check the Fushi bearings. Heard nice things about them and ordered some, yet to be installed when necessary Smile
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#29
I'm stubborn, I'm still trying to figure out why it doesn't memorize the pir mode of the pit mode...
but if anyone is interested I have read that can set something similar through CLI command:

set vtx_low_power_disarm = ON

If ON and the flight controller is disarmed, the video transmitter output power will be set to its lowest value (vtx_power=1).
Otherwise, the video transmitter output power will be set to the configured 'vtx_power' value.
(Note one exception: If a receiver failsafe has occurred then the output power will not be lowered.)

I tried it and it works,
the green and red LEDs flash differently when armed or disarmed, to indicate the different output powers.
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#30
(03-Jun-2019, 09:00 PM)Corrado-c Wrote: I'm stubborn, I'm still trying to figure out why it doesn't memorize the pir mode of the pit mode...
but if anyone is interested I have read that  can set something similar through CLI command:

set vtx_low_power_disarm = ON

If ON and the flight controller is disarmed, the video transmitter output power will be set to its lowest value (vtx_power=1).
Otherwise, the video transmitter output power will be set to the configured 'vtx_power' value.
(Note one exception: If a receiver failsafe has occurred then the output power will not be lowered.)

I guess that's as good a workaround as any Smile although for VTXs that don't have a power output setting lower than 5mW or 25mW, it's not really pit mode (which is generally 0.01mW), but at least it allows you set the VTX to it's lowest setting while disarmed to prevent any possible over-heating while powered up. Where I fly, I only run on 25mW which is the lowest my VTX goes so it can't actually be set to anything lower while disarmed.

The reason that setting doesn't lower the power setting on a failsafe is because if you fail-safed a long distance away, a strong working video transmission signal may help you to locate your downed quad or use the model finder feature on your goggle receiver, so lowering the VTX power in that scenario could risk being counter-productive for finding a lost model.
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