What do you think about it, is this gonna work together, do you see any problems or did I miss something, please comment and let me know.

1. Frame: KCFrames KC250, £45
   
2. Flight Controller: BrainFPV RE1 £69
   
3. PDB: BrainFPV Power distribution board (mPB), £18
   
4. Motors: T-Motor F40 II 2400kv £20
   
5. ECS: KISS 24 AMP ESC 2-5S 24A RACE EDITION - 32BIT, £18
   
6. Propellers: 4x DAL 5040 or 5045 Bullnose V2, £1.98
   
7. LiPo Drone: Acehe 1500mAh 14.8V 4S 75C Lipo Battery, 180g, £23.4
   
8. Lipo Goggles: TURNIGY 2S 7.4V 1000mAh LIPO Rechargeable £8
   
9. LiPo Charger: Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power... £46
   
10. FPV Camera: RunCam Swift £33 + optionally 2.5mm GoPro Lens £7
    
11. FPV Goggles: UFO FPV DIY 5.8G 40CH 5 Inch 800 x 480 HD Snow Screen Goggles for FPV Racing £55
    
12. Video Transmitter (vTX): ImmersionRC 600mw 5.8 VTX £26
    
13. Video Receiver (vRX):  I’ll use the built in the goggles
    
14. Antenna: IBCrazy 5.8GHz Airblade Race Spec Antenna (SMA) (LHCP), £22
    
15. Transmitter: FrSKY Taranis X9D+ Transmitter £163
    
16. Wire: 12 awg wire £6
    

Cost: ~£680

List looks fine, I would swap out a few things, what experience of soldering and building "things" do you have ? Also flying experience ?

Two quick notes:
- That vtx is FAT. Meanwhile there's much smaller ones, also preferably with an extension ("pigtail"). I have mine off hobbiesfly.com but most brands are the same size nowadays.
- 12awg wire is FAT i'd say 14awg for battery lead, and 16-18awg for the escs, but that's more personal taste than science. Just thinking of the weight.

(21-Oct-2016, 06:59 AM)2strokesmoke Wrote: List looks fine, I would swap out a few things, what experience of soldering and building "things" do you have ? Also flying experience ?

Please I'd like to hear your opinion.recommend parts you would swap and why.

Soldering is not a problem for me, I used to do it a lot, so I should be fine with it.

I flown few small RTF Helis and few some small drones but no FPV and I'm quite good in them so I've decided it's time to go FPV :)

(21-Oct-2016, 09:25 AM)fftunes Wrote: Two quick notes:
- That vtx is FAT. Meanwhile there's much smaller ones, also preferably with an extension ("pigtail"). I have mine off hobbiesfly.com but most brands are the same size nowadays.
- 12awg wire is FAT :) i'd say 14awg for battery lead, and 16-18awg for the escs, but that's more personal taste than science. Just thinking of the weight.

- Apparently this "ImmersionRC 600mw" is still one of the best even though it has been around for long time now, BUT please tell me which one you would recommend.
- I thought it may be a bit FAT ;) thanks I'll go with thinner ones. You're absolutely right, weight is paramount on these drones.

Thanks

(21-Oct-2016, 10:19 AM)FateTrader Wrote: - Apparently this "ImmersionRC 600mw" is still one of the best even though it has been around for long time now, BUT please tell me which one you would recommend.

I'm using the hawkeye 32ch from hobbiesfly.com and never had problems with. I only got the 200mW but that already reached further than my tx But there's also Aomway and many other brands w/ exact same size. Maybe someone else has a tip on which one is the best.

Looking at the frame you chose, it looks pretty slim. That immersion brick would be a pain to fit in there

(21-Oct-2016, 10:45 AM)fftunes Wrote: I'm using the hawkeye 32ch from hobbiesfly.com and never had problems with. I only got the 200mW but that already reached further than my tx But there's also Aomway and many other brands w/ exact same size. Maybe someone else has a tip on which one is the best.

Looking at the frame you chose, it looks pretty slim. That immersion brick would be a pain to fit in there

Thanks I'll take a look at them.

PS: since your goggles come with a 40ch receiver, the vtx would better be 40ch too so you can use the raceband too.

1. Battery, 4s 1300 will be adequate, 1500 too heavy, suggest a-spec nanotech, maybe others forum users will have advice on this too
2. Airframe, doesn't look overly strong, for a first build go for something a bit more durable, you will crash lots, thugframes aren't cheap but they take a hiding, any of the clone brands that are supported properly with spares, crazepony, realacc, martian ? Catch a deal on BG and you could have 2 frames for less than your first choice ? again maybe others on the forum can give advice on this
3. Flight controller, a f3 board will give you all you need for a first build, and save a lot of money, kiss fc if you're gonna go with the kiss esc's, it works and sounds like nothing else the latest betaflight on a f3 board and blheli-s esc is a very similar experience

Don't forget your reciver like a X4R-SB

(21-Oct-2016, 01:38 PM)2strokesmoke Wrote: 1. Battery,  4s 1300 will be adequate, 1500 too heavy, suggest a-spec nanotech, maybe others forum users will have advice on this too
2. Airframe, doesn't look overly strong, for a first build go for something a bit more durable, you will crash lots, thugframes aren't cheap but they take a hiding, any of the clone brands that are supported properly with spares, crazepony, realacc, martian ? Catch a deal on BG and you could have 2 frames for less than your first choice ? again maybe others on the forum can give advice on this
3. Flight controller, a f3 board will give you all you need for a first build, and save a lot of money, kiss fc if you're gonna go with the kiss esc's, it works and sounds like nothing else the latest betaflight on a f3 board and blheli-s esc is a very similar experience

1. I've looked up on Tattus website, they have quite good batteries. I've read about the C rating and supposedly it should match more or less your maxim current draw for all motors [C rating = peak current draw / capacity], so the F40II 2600kv max current draw at 100% is 36.5A
   
   1300mAh 75C, 165g ---> C rating = (36.5*4=146A) / 1.30 = ~112C
   1550mAh 75C, 180g ---> C rating = (36.5*4=146A) / 1.55 = ~94C
   1800mAh 75C, 214g ---> C rating = (36.5*4=146A) / 1.80 = ~81C
   
   I'm guessing that most often I'll be between 25-75% of throttle so between 2.8A - 21.3A. So this gives C ratio between 8.6C to 65C and 1300mAh should be good. On the other hand 1550mAh is only 15g heavier than 1300mAh, is it a big deal? should I really go with 1300mAh or go for the 1550mAh?
   
   
2. Just had a look, you are right, I'll pick something from there, nice prices too.
   
   I think this one should be good: MartianⅡ 250 250mm, should I buy spare arms with the frame? if so how many do you recommend? 
   
   
3. I'was looking at KISS FC - 32bit Flight Controller V1.03 it looks good and even have built in telemetry. Somehow I really like this BrainFPV FC it has some nice features in it like GPS to hold position and and OSD looks great.
   
   Question here is, since I chosen KISS ESC's will this KISS FC somehow benefit the built? or this makes no difference if I take another one like BrainFPV?
   
   Here is a quote by someone who tried it:
   
   I was fortunate enough to try out the betaflight test target for the re1 this past week. Wow! I was never a fan of osd mostly due to the fact that i prefer minimalist builds and didn't care to add the extra hardware or deal with additional programming. The notch filter in betaflight is awesome and the spectrograph feature will allow you to tune completely on the field without ever taking your goggles off! I do appreciate the access of settings with osd so the re1 is perfect for a no hassle setup. I originally tested the re1 with dRonin and was only mildly impressed (mostly due to the fact I had never used dRonin before and found it hard to get used to compared to *flight platforms). With betaflight I was back in my comfort zone and able to dial in my quad (DMC whippet I frame) on the field within a few packs. Hopefully cleanflight and raceflight add targets soon for the re1 cause this is a must try fc for everybody.
   

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(21-Oct-2016, 04:23 PM)Ikkuh Wrote: Don't forget your reciver like a X4R-SB

Thanks, I didn't notice transmitter comes without it

Just noticed the lipo you planned for your goggles... imho 1000mAh is not much. It will last for a good session no doubt, but personally i'm pretty happily using my old rc-car lipos (2s, 4000-5000mAh) as they last forever. I'm using an extension wire so i don't have to carry it on my head.


EDIT: Can someone have a look at the charger? I only read "50W" which sounds a little ... little, but to be honest i have totally no clue what that means in terms of charge time etc - i'm all but expert on this topic. Is probably just fine.

I have the martian II frame and I absolutely love it. I ended up just buying two frames so I would have replacement parts. I've only snapped one arm and that was from a pretty nasty crash.

The VTX you've linked to is actually a 25mW not a 600mW, the 600mW is going to be a lot more expensive.

It looks like you have top of the line stuff except for the goggles. I went for a pair of FatShark Teleporter v5's and they are fantastic.

The antenna you have is an awesome one but make sure that the receiving antenna has the same polarization. The one you've listed is LHCP. Just make sure that the one on your goggles is also LHCP and not RHCP. Also check whether your antennas connector is SMA or RP-SMA, it looks like the one on those goggles is RP-SMA.

I think thats all I've got. Hope it helps! Good luck on your first build!

(21-Oct-2016, 05:33 PM)fftunes Wrote: Just noticed the lipo you planned for your goggles... imho 1000mAh is not much. It will last for a good session no doubt, but personally i'm pretty happily using my old rc-car lipos (2s, 4000-5000mAh) as they last forever. I'm using an extension wire so i don't have to carry it on my head.


EDIT: Can someone have a look at the charger? I only read "50W" which sounds a little ... little, but to be honest i have totally no clue what that means in terms of charge time etc - i'm all but expert on this topic. Is probably just fine.

Not a bad idea about this high capacity lipo, I'll find something like that, thanks.

about the charger this is actually the one I want to get, it looks exactly the same but it is not panda but skyrc, it has a lot of positive reviews on US amazon

(21-Oct-2016, 06:15 PM)Xtopher98 Wrote: I have the martian II frame and I absolutely love it. I ended up just buying two frames so I would have replacement parts. I've only snapped one arm and that was from a pretty nasty crash.

The VTX you've linked to is actually a 25mW not a 600mW, the 600mW is going to be a lot more expensive.

It looks like you have top of the line stuff except for the goggles. I went for a pair of FatShark Teleporter v5's and they are fantastic.

The antenna you have is an awesome one but make sure that the receiving antenna has the same polarization. The one you've listed is LHCP. Just make sure that the one on your goggles is also LHCP and not RHCP. Also check whether your antennas connector is SMA or RP-SMA, it looks like the one on those goggles is RP-SMA.

I think thats all I've got. Hope it helps! Good luck on your first build!

Oh yes you are right, vTX is 25mW, my mistake the 600mW one costs £73.

About the antenna, I'll go with them ImmersionRC 5.8GHz Antenna Set (2 antennas) SpiroNET 5001009 (IRL2301) they come in pair so it should be good.[url=ImmersionRC 5.8GHz Antenna Set (2 antennas) SpiroNET 5001009 (IRL2301)][/url]

About the goggles, I simply can't decide, I mean I could go for the Fat Sharks even the most expensive ones but I simply have no opinion about them. I've never tried any of them and from what I've already saw on the YouTube the video signal on all of them is not the best quality anyway most of the time it's a bit broken with some noise interference. So the question is, is it worth to buy more expensive ones? what I saw is mostly VGA or sometimes SVGA resolution and 4:3. Should I go 16:9 instead? what is better?