Cinewhoops tend to have more blades, for more stability. Four or five would be where I started, since bi and tri blades tend to be more freestyle and general cruising. I would probably buy 3-4 packs of each (or maybe more if you can't get them delivered) and try them out. On all of my quads i like HQ props, so i would probably go with HQ. But I am quite young in this hobby, so pinch of salt.

I know nothing of bearings per se, but would have thought if you can find out the spec for the motors, you should be able to order new ones from a supplier pretty easily, or open one up, grab a bearing out and use a micrometer to get the dimensions. I would also buy an additional set of motors, for your parts box.

Bearings in the mamba toka 1408 are listed by Diatone as:
5x2x2.5
But bearings don’t always have the numbers listed in the same order, so to clarify, that is:
5mm OD (outer diameter)
2mm ID (inner diameter)
2.5mm W (width, although for us it’s height because we lay them horizontally.

I prefer NSK bearings, but I’ve used random generic MR52 bearings with no issues.
I can only give you US links, but, these will give you an idea of what you’re looking for:
NSK:
https://pyrodrone.com/products/nsk-5x2x2...quick_view
(Hobby shops overcharge for these things, this link is just to give you an idea of what you’re looking for)
Generic:
https://www.amazon.com/2x5x2-5mm-MR52-ZZ...B00TVPSCVO
^this one is an example of numbers being in a different order, but if you scroll down it says: Dimensions as follows: ID, OD, Width: 2x5x2.5mm

I gave some tips on bearing replacement here (different motors and bearing size so ignore the numbers, and the post above the one linked to below also talks about bearing removal):
https://intofpv.com/t-3%E2%80%9D-roninua...#pid178750

And here’s a post from Sugs that includes a video about bearing replacement (you don’t need a press- a rubber mallet works just fine to tap out the bearing);
https://intofpv.com/t-bearing-maintenanc...3#pid89503

You may not have an issue with the stock bearings- I haven’t had them wear out from use, they just can’t take a good hit. You’ll be running this in a cinewhoop style with prop guards, yeah? Then they shouldn’t be subjected to any real hard smacks. Still, it’s good to have spare bearings on hand- I usually make sure I’ve got some for every motor size that I have, because I’m cheap, and $0.50 or $1 to get a motor back in the air is significantly more affordable than a new motor.

As far as prop choices go, there’s a few different things to consider (this is real general and not comprehensive):

What your motors and esc’s can handle (higher pitch and/or more blades means more amperage). Those mamba toka’s can swing any 3” prop with no issues, and I don’t know what your esc is rated for, but as long as it’s at least 25A it shouldn’t be an issue either.

Type of flying.
In general, more blades means more drag, higher amp draw.
Bi-blades tend to be more efficient, and would be suited for long range or gentle cruising.
Tri- blades will have more “grip” in the air and let you make quicker movements.
Quad-blades are a nice compromise between the punch and grip of tri-blades, and the stable “floatiness” of 5+ blades.
5+ blades tends to be more stable, and probably most suited for your use case.

Pitch.
Higher pitch generally means more thrust and higher amp draw.
Lower pitch generally means the opposite.
High pitch is good for quick movements and acceleration, also can be good for heavy quads/lifting, as long as flight time isn’t the priority.
(Sorry that’s so vague, this a topic all on its own)

Personal preference.
Changing props is a cheap and easy way to change the flight characteristics of your bird.

For multi-blade (5+) props I’ve used the following with those motors:
HQ t75
https://www.hqprop.com/hqprop-duct-t75mm...p0281.html

Gemfan D76-5
https://www.gemfanhobby.com/show.aspx?id=279&cid=45

And it was really a 6 to one, half dozen to the other kind of thing. If I had to pick I think I preferred the HQ T75, but honestly, that might have just been because I was still mad at Gemfan. A while back I had some prop failures that caused me to break multiple things- I tried to give them a heads up just to let them know that they might want to look into their plastic formulation or something, and their response was to tell me that it absolutely had to be user error. Hrmm. Apparently I’m still a little bitter. To be fair, it could have been user error- although I’m not sure what kind of user error would make it so that the prop deflected in mid air far enough to hit the prop guard supports, or cause a blade to shear off mid flight. Maybe I hit an invisible bird, or the temperature made the props brittle. It honestly could have been my prop guards deflecting into the props- they were pretty weak. Could have had a crack on a support or two that allowed it to move. It’s hard to analyze post crash when something went wrong in the air.

Anyhow. I fly a different style then you do, so neither suited me well- but either would probably work well for you from the flight videos of yours that I’ve seen.

For my flight style, I love those HQ 3x3x3- plenty of punch.
As pathfinder said, I’ve found it’s best to just buy a few of every type available and try them all out to see what works best for each build. You’ll eventually end up with a wall of props that you can pick and choose from and experiment with.

I could be wrong here, but I think the primary difference between a prop labeled as a “cine” and one that is not (not taking into account different blade counts- say a tri-blade prop vs a tri-blade “cinewhoop” prop) is the tip shape.

I’m guessing that probably has something to do with spinning in free air vs a “duct” (most of our ducts aren’t shaped to function as a duct, they’re just prop guards).
That’s just a guess though.

I’ve flown plenty of props marketed as cinewhoop props on open prop builds, and I honestly can’t tell the difference.

Thanks again for your extremely comprehensive responses! I guess I will be getting a few different brands of props, maybe I should blind test them by having someone swap them out for me, se if I can tell the difference. I probably won't.

Thanks for those links. US or not, they do help. Much appreciated!

I’d love to hear your thoughts on them once you’ve tried a few different props out.

If you can do a blind test, that would be awesome- I try really hard to be objective, but that’s difficult when I know I can probably expect a certain thing out of a given change, and I was the one to make the change.

Just out of interest, are you going to be using these in another underground explorer build?

(16-Feb-2023, 01:44 AM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: Just out of interest, are you going to be using these in another underground explorer build?

Not another one, it's the same one that's been fighting me all along. It's still twitching and I've spent too much time on it to throw in the towel. The only things left to replace on it are the motors and the receiver. I don't like the motors on it anyway, they are lower KV for 6s and I only run 4s on it. Maybe rates can be changed to compensate for that but because of the twitching I'll replace them anyway.

(15-Feb-2023, 05:20 PM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: On all of my quads i like HQ props, so i would probably go with HQ.  But I am quite young in this hobby, so pinch of salt.

I'll get some gemfan, some HQ. I don't know if I'll notice the difference, but if I think I do I'll do a blind test and really find out.

(15-Feb-2023, 05:20 PM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: I know nothing of bearings per se, but would have thought if you can find out the spec for the motors, you should be able to order new ones from a supplier pretty easily, or open one up, grab a bearing out and use a micrometer to get the dimensions.  I would also buy an additional set of motors, for your parts box.

Yes, as I've seen, motors go out of stock. I think I'll just get a bunch of those Toka motors to last me for a while. For bearings I have some research to do. There are some Swedish FPV guys I can ask about sources.

Short version
Use whats listed in motor thrust table

KV and prop and voltage works exactly like bicycle and gears and tire size.

Big (rear) gear = easy to peddle. Lower top speed. Lower max thrust.
Same if you make wheel small.

Lets make numbers simple.
For 5" 2207, 2000KV.
On 4S, you are underutilizing motor.. only using 66% thrust. Like always riding bike with biggest easy gear spinning 200x a minute.

On 6S. its OK.

2207 3000KV
On 6S its pushing motor 50% more than normal. Like always riding bike on smallest hard gear.. legs hurt takes long time to speedup.

On 4S its OK.

Notice if you use normally, its same max prop speed.
6 x 2000 = 12000
4 x 3000 = 12000

Also FYI. KV is inherent property. Its the number of turns of wire on stator (and winding pattern).

Imagine simple world. Only 1S exists.
Mfcr only needs to make 1 Kv ??
No. Because you still need high KV for smaller props (to spin them faster)

In world with 1S only, amps would be super high, and 5" or 7" would be impossible.

So why not 6S everywhere. Its so great for 5", 7" , 10".
On 2.5" 1103 3000KV? Cant do it. Would need super thin wire to make so many turns on stator.

Thanks for the additional info. I'm getting it. Or at least I think I am...