Hi guys,
I noticed that most of the stacks have a male connector for the camera, and most of the camera have a male connector too.
I don't feel confident in playing with the JST, too small to me. What's the trick in this case? The camera connectors use pins too, not welded.


Thanks!

CLRacing used to sell packs of pre-crimped wires with a pile of JST-SH connectors so you could make your own.

https://uk.banggood.com/CL-RACING-JST-SH...rehouse=CN

I found them on Amazon as well, but they look like they were drop-shipped from China anyway - delivery time was 3 weeks.

(23-Aug-2020, 11:18 AM)Banelle Wrote: CLRacing used to sell packs of pre-crimped wires with a pile of JST-SH connectors so you could make your own.

https://uk.banggood.com/CL-RACING-JST-SH...rehouse=CN

I found them on Amazon as well, but they look like they were drop-shipped from China anyway - delivery time was 3 weeks.

 Thanks, that looks easier than crimp the cables by myself... just need to double check with JST size I do need.

The other option is to get some JST-SH 1.0 pigtails, then cut the connector off the camera harness and splice/solder the ends together with some heat shrink sleeving for insulation over the joint.

Assuming your profile location is correct then you can get them locally and quickly from the following link, although this is a tad expensive (that is 1 pigtail for £1)...

https://www.hobbyrc.co.uk/jst-sh-3-pin-c...50mm-wires

A pack of 10 works out cheaper here per unit if you're prepared to wait for delivery...

https://www.banggood.com/10-PCS-AuroraRC...11496.html

(23-Aug-2020, 11:26 AM)andreab Wrote: just need to double check with JST size I do need.

I have the same GEPRC Stable F411 stack in my Phantom. The camera socket on the FC uses JST-SH 1.0mm connectors.

(23-Aug-2020, 11:28 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: The other option is to get some JST-SH 1.0 pigtails, then cut the connector off the camera harness and splice/solder the ends together with some heat shrink sleeving for insulation over the joint.

Assuming your profile location is correct then you can get them locally and quickly from the following link, although this is a tad expensive (that is 1 pigtail for £1)...

https://www.hobbyrc.co.uk/jst-sh-3-pin-c...50mm-wires

A pack of 10 works out cheaper here per unit if you're prepared to wait for delivery...

https://www.banggood.com/10-PCS-AuroraRC...11496.html

Ok thanks. Assuming I'm going for the RunCam Racer Nano 2, I do need a 4 to 3 JST 1.0 cable. It would be nice to have it ready to use, but I'm asking too much

You can just ignore the 2-pin "Menu" connector plug on the harness that comes with the RunCam Racer Nano 2 (zip tie it out of the way). If you want camera control via the FC, the GEPRC Stable F11 FC doesn't have a dedicated camera control pad so you would need to remap another pad that has a timer associated with it for camera control (i.e. the LED pad). If you do this you will then need to solder the "MENU" pin from the camera connector direct to that pad on the FC.

(23-Aug-2020, 12:01 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: You can just ignore the 2-pin "Menu" connector plug on the harness that comes with the RunCam Racer Nano 2 (zip tie it out of the way). If you want camera control via the FC, the GEPRC Stable F11 FC doesn't have a dedicated camera control pad so you would need to remap another pad that has a timer associated with it for camera control (i.e. the LED pad). If you do this you will then need to solder the "MENU" pin from the camera connector direct to that pad on the FC.

I don't need the FC control, but I assume I can't plug a 3 pin female connector into a 4 pin male connector. Or can I?

(23-Aug-2020, 12:04 PM)andreab Wrote: I don't need the FC control, but I assume I can't plug a 3 pin female connector into a 4 pin male connector. Or can I?

You can usually put a 3-pin JST-SH 1.0mm plug into a 4-pin socket. I've done exactly that with a self-powered buzzer that has a 5-pin JST-SH 1.0mm socket on it. I've put a 3 pin plug in it. You just need to be very careful to put the plug in the correct side so you don't inadvertantly apply 5V to the wrong pin and fry the camera. A bit of hot glue would probably also be a good idea too because a 3-pin plug in a 4-pin socket isn't quite as secure.

If you decide to do that then you probably want to get the following cables instead...

https://www.banggood.com/10-PCS-JST-SH-1...43907.html