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Is there a standard to frame internal size
#1
Hi all.
Is there a standard to the space that the frames provide for components (FC, ESC, etc.)? I know there are standards to the hole layouts but what about height? I might end up building a 2" with the Caddx Vista and am worried about fitting the gear in.
Thanks
Alan
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#2
Curious,  why a 2 inch  Confused  You will have more space if you move up to at least a 3 inch (or 4 inch). There just isn't much space in a 2 inch build, but you might get it accomplished. I have seen whoops with vista, but that is a real Tight fit. 

I would look for a frame that specifies for DJI or for Vista, but you might get away with most any dual mount frame kit. There are quite a few 3 inch frames that meet this criteria; 2 inch...not so much. If you are more interested in cinematic then you might consider a cinematic frame. If it specifies DJI, then Vista should also fit since it is a little smaller.

As for standards, I don't think there are any "real" standards. Most "non-whoop" frame kits come with 20mm standoff columns; that sets the space between the top and bottom frame plates. However, you can use what ever size you need. For example, if you need more vertical space use...say...30mm columns; then you get 30mm space between plates. So, technically, you can adjust the space as needed for your build by adjusting the column height. 

Most flight control stacks include the FC, ESC, and often VTX; the 16x16 size fits the 20mm space; then you mount the Rx receiver where ever you can or like {most just zip tie the thing somewhere out of the way}. Another option is the "whoop/toothpick" AIO (All In One) FC/ESC which fits a specific mounting pattern and is generally the FC and ESC on one board. If you want to run Vista with one of these boards, you definitely need a dual mount position frame one that specifies the Whoop mounting or a Whoop/toothpick frame specifically for DJI.

The attached picture shows a few examples of 3 inch frames with dual mounting positions; the iFlight and Reptile Cloud both specify for DJI, the GEPRC is a cinematic frame with dual mounts, but does not specify DJI. The Cloud is a CineWhoop frame; these tend to be a bit harder to work with because of the whoops.

You might check out my Phantom-X build; it has a lot of interesting information and comments from other members and links to my other builds.


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#3
There's no standard for the electronic stack heights they can have a huge range. But frames tend to be designed to work with dji heights, standard FC+ESC stacks and AIO FC stack heights.

Often you'll see "20mm stand off's" or something to that effect in the frame description. That's the aluminum spacers between the top/bottom plate's and also the space available for your build.

It's not unusually to run into minor issues with fitting your components. Sometimes you just need shorter spacers between boards. O-rings are popular for shorter spacers. Good research where you can will help, you can ask here, study pictures online and also see if there's a rotorbuilds thread for your frame.

Luckily thats less likely with normal 5" freestyle frames and more typical of special builds where your trying to squeeze in an extra stack for something like a run cam hybrid or split camera. Micros can be a pain to build too as that's where your most likely to come across needing a AIO FC and nano vtx rather than board mount ones. Sometimes your just screwed with your electronics choices and buying something else to make it fit. We've all been there, it's just a down payment on your next build.
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#4
Thanks for the replies.
Aiming at 2" as I specifically want something that can be flown nicely indoors. I am aiming at building a 5" after but wanted an indoors model as I don't get much time to get out, and with winter coming, will get even less. Plus would be using a more forgiving and lighter model to train up until flying the 5".
I was thinking of getting a small BNF (GEPRC Thinking P16 or iFlight a85) but I heard the Nebula camera is quite bad and I don't want to drop 200 bucks on something that will annoy me. So I started thinking to build something myself with a vista. I also know full well that going DJI is massivly complicating things with a small build but I'm hoping to be able to sort something.
I was looking at a complete AIO to leave more room for the vista but as iFly4rotors said, they are specific and don't fit the frames I was looking at. The stacks do but with the vista will just be too high (guessing from pics). So I either have to do something with a stack or try to just stick/cable-tie down an AIO Sad .
I guess I'l just give lots of visual study and hope for the best.
Thanks again
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#5
If you want a BNF, the GEPRC Thinking P16 looks pretty good; lately, there have been some question about the quality of iFlight electronics {not me personally, but others have noticed it}. In my opinion, GEPRC has pretty good electronics.  

Building a quad like the two you listed might be a bit challenging, but could be done if you can find a frame. If it was me, I would seriously look at a CineWhoop or "bumper" style 3 inch. You could also find a frame that matches the electronics in a three inch and add "whoops". {{You definitely need whoops for indoor flying, especially if you are a beginner}}

Consider that you will likely end up spending more money building than buying a BNF version.

I have just watched videos on both of these. Personally, I really like the GEPRC Thinking  P16. If you get the Vista version the FPV feed will be clear. That is the thing about digital, you get a clear FPV feed that you see in the goggles.

By the way, these quads don't include goggles... this is in addition to anything you buy or build...
the digital goggles alone will set you back several hundred dollars {over $500}  Huh  . 

Plus you still need a transmitter {Yeah, these don't come with a BNF and certainly not when you build your own}.  

I figure you will spend about $1,000 (USD) before you get in the air.  Whistling

Personally, I would not tape down nor zip tie the flight controller. You could, however, make a very simple plate out of any fairly solid material. Although you can buy carbon fiber sheets, you can also just use a heavy plastic {maybe from an old alcohol bottle or something}. We buy MCT oil and it comes in a square bottle that is made from very firm, crystal clear, plastic  Wink
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#6
Haha..... I used to fly RC heli's so I know all too well how expensive this can get. That was a while ago and technology changes means all my old gear isn't really an option Sad.... Well, except the lipo charger.

The camera quality of the geprc thinking p16 really puts me off. Would be different if it was half the price.
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#7
(19-Aug-2020, 05:37 PM)AlanB1976 Wrote: Haha..... I used to fly RC heli's so I know all too well how expensive this can get. That was a while ago and technology changes means all my old gear isn't really an option Sad.... Well, except the lipo charger.

The camera quality of the geprc thinking p16 really puts me off. Would be different if it was half the price.

Just curious or confused  Confused  The Vista version uses the "Vista" camera, right   Huh  Is that not the same as any (and all) Vista setups  Huh    I didn't know there were camera options for the Vista Digital Video System  Huh   My point is...would the camera not be the same even if you built it yourself  Huh    Confused   Thinking
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#8
The P16 uses the "Caddx Vista Nebula" camera and not the standard vista one. It's a couple g lighter but outdoors it's pretty bad
[-] The following 1 user Likes AlanB1976's post:
  • iFly4rotors
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#9
20 and 25mm has been my experience with modern frames.
[-] The following 1 user Likes the.ronin's post:
  • iFly4rotors
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