The original FC stack in this quad lost a esc and I lost a motor as well, so I decided to rebuild it with a whoop fc and different motors.

I have not tried powering it up yet or take care of any of the settings. This is a list of what is currently in it.

Parts:
Frame - GEPRC Phantom 2.5" Micro Frame
Motors - RCInpower 1204 8000kv
Props - Gemfan 2540-3
FC - DarwinFPV 1-3S F411 AIO Flight Controller w/ 15A Bluejay ESC and ELRS2.0
VTX - Happymodel Diamond 5.8G 40ch 25mw-200mw W/DVR
VTX Antenna - HGLRC Mini Hammer 5.8GHz U.FL Antenna RHCP
Camera - Caddx Baby Ratel 2 Nano Starlight Low Latency

It is weighing in at 72.40 grams dry and 118.54 grams with a RDQ 3S 650mAh battery.

               

That should be a fun one to fly.

I find those GF 2540’s to be a bit brittle, and GF’s naming scheme doesn’t match the props so they’re actually only 2.4” pitch. I’d suggest tossing some Azure Power 2540’s on it.

It is in the experimental stage so I am using what I have on hand for now. If it turns out to fly descent with good flight times, I will check out other props...

I just looked and I also have some HQ props - T2.5x3.5x3....

Those hq props are some good 2.5” as well.

It’s not that the GF Flash don’t fly well- it’s just that they’re a bit heavy, and in my experience, they tend to shear off the hub on impact rather than bending.

Not necessarily a problem if you don’t plan on crashing, but, a serious issue if you crash on a roof or something.

Nice lil ripper there Brett. Those 1204 motors are the best in that size, love rcinpower!

Hi Brett,

Nice BUILD      SWEET     Good Job  

Yeah, I agree that the 1204 8000 motors should provide plenty of power.

For a 2.5-inch open prop quad, I tend to use either the HQProp (seem to
be more durable) or Gemfan (good 2nd choice) bi-blade ones OR the EMAX 
Avan Rush tri-blade props. I like bi-blade props as they tend to be more 
efficient and provide the longest fly times. The Rush props seem to be a bit 
more aggressive, still pretty efficient, AND they are absolutely wicked looking. 
They just look mean. 

I like the Phantom in general and the frame is nice as a base starting 
point for a 2.5-inch build. 

Later, My Friend, iFly  

Finally got it finished and had its maiden flight today. Not the best day for it as we have 15 to 20 mph winds with gusts even higher...

When first testing it out I found that when powered up, the goggles went from snowy screen to black screen so I knew the vtx was working but I was getting no video. Tried a couple different cameras with the same result so I switched the wiring on the camera and vtx on the fc. Boom, got video.

Tried a test hover inside and when I armed it, it took off right into the ceiling with no throttle. Saved a Dump and Diff All and then applied the Betaflight defaults and all was good... It is hovering at about 30% throttle with a 450mAh battery.

Took it outside in the wind and it flies very good. Probably my best build to date as far as thrust to weight ratio and don't seem to be getting any jello which is a problem I always seem to have. It also seems to have very little inteference in the video which is another problem I always seem to have. With this being an experimental build, I did not cut the motor wires to length and spun the wires and then wrapped them around the quad arms which I think is helping in keeping the interference down.

It is weighing in at 74 grams dry, and 114 grams with the 450mAh battery. Unfortunately using the Phantom frame, the props are in view which I am not a big fan of. Maybe if I find some clear props, it won't be so bad... 

I decided to go with the Caddx Baby Ratel 2 Nano because the camera is a little longer than the Toothless 2 (to keep the frame out of view) which has been my goto camera lately. I think I may be sticking with the Ratel as my new goto camera as it does not have the purple fringing that I have been getting with the Toothless. The color and dynamics also seem to be very good as well.

Here is a vid recorded with the onboard DVR from the Happymodel VTX. The only editing was trimming the beginning and end.
I got seven and a half minutes of flight of time on a 450mAh battery doing casual flying. The battery ended up at 3.4 volts per cell after the flight and I usually aim for 3.5 volts per cell so flight time is pretty descent.

I forgot to mention how quiet it is. I will have to try it again on a day without the winds because with the wind noise, I could not hear it at all at about twenty to thirty feet away from me...

Hi Brett,

Regarding the props in view. Replace the front standard round stand off columns with
Armattan Tadpole (or other) aluminum Cam Braces or the little TPU cam mounts
that stick out the front. Both methods will push the camera forward.  

The Tadpole cam braces are the same height as the standoff columns (20mm). 

This picture is a comparison of the Tadpole aluminum Cam Braces and the TPU cam
mounts. Either method is about the same as for camera view. I have used both,
however, I like the looks of the aluminum camera mounts so I sort of prefer them
and believe that the look and extra protection is worth the minor difference in the
weight. 




The following picture of my Phantom-X build is an example of the Tadpole Cam Braces
on a GEPRC Phantom Frame. Notice how the camera is pushed forward which helps
with the "props in view" issue. 

Close up view of the empty, but assembled, GEPRC Phantom frame.



Interestingly, my Phantom-X is built on the 2.5-inch GEPRC Frame, however, I used 
extensions on the arms to fit 4-inch props. The following picture is the latest incarnation 
and current configuration fully assembled. 



This next picture is the Phantom-X fitted with 3-inch props and prop guards. Here, 
I mounted the camera above the top deck plate using the little TPU mounts on standard 
round standoffs. This method definitely takes the props out of view. Yeah, I never really 
worry about the camera, but then I am running $ 17 USD analog cameras.



Later, My Friend, iFly  

Thanks iFly, great pro tip on using those Tadpole cam mounts on the Phantom! I didn't know they did or even try before... woot.

(21-Oct-2023, 12:49 PM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Hi Brett,

Regarding the props in view. Replace the front standard round stand off columns with
Armattan Tadpole (or other) aluminum Cam Braces or the little TPU cam mounts
that stick out the front. Both methods will push the camera forward.  

The Tadpole cam braces are the same height as the standoff columns (20mm).

What a great idea, Thank You. I have two sets on the way. I have always had a problem with the props in view on the Phantoms and that is why one of them is a 3" pusher. I haven't really liked it as a pusher so it will probably go back to a 2.5" standard setup now.

I am still working on my Tadpole build so for now I pulled the camera mounts and tried them on the Phantom. One problem I am finding is that the braces on the Tadpole butt up against a flat surface and insure that brace is straight. On the Phantom they can twist back and forth and is harder to get them straight. They also have to be straight because the brackets push the camera farther forward and puts the mounting screws directly between the motors and leaves virtually no clearence from the prop tips. I tried mounting the Emax Avian Rush props and they are even closer to the screws (a fraction of a millimeter).
These brackets have a slot versus a hole to mount the camera and apparently is not quite straight as I have a prop in view but only on the right side. I would say that the brackets are a little off but the prop clearance is the same both sides...

   

   

   

Hi Brett,

First, it looks really COOL     

Use some 5mm high, M2 Male/Female stand offs under the front motors. 
Screw them onto the motor, then bolt to the frame as normal. This will
raise the props.

A good example that you can see clearly is on the Rescue Quad build.
I am running 7-inch props on a 6-inch frame. So, raising 2 motors that
are on a diagonal arm, provides clearance at the prop tips. In your case 
it would just be the front motors.




I had forgotten, but if I recall correctly, the Tadpole Cam Braces have a slight 
space the is supposed to be for the front of the frame to "slot" into, however, 
you will need to file the front edge of the frame forming a wedge shape. The 
frame should then slide into the recess in the cam brace. It will make the mount 
fit a bit tighter and more stable. 

Raising the front motors should also help to keep the props out of view. On the
bench, adjust the camera to the best place. Of course, tighten all bolts securely.

Later, My Friend, iFly  

Hey iFly,

The props aren't touching so there is no need to raise the motors. They are just really close and that is with the Emax props, the others aren't quite that close. Honestly, I don't think I like the Emax props anyway. They don't seem as efficient as the Gemfan 2540-3's and flight time is what I am all about.

Changing the camera braces and props added a few grams to the build and with the Emax props, I got 1-1/2 less minutes of flight time with the same battery. I will have to test all the props with the camera bracket change.

I think the Gemfan 2540-3 props were a little quieter as they have the flared prop tip. Most of the prop noise is generated at the tip of the prop.

The props I have on hand to test with are:
Gemfan 2540-3 - 1.00 gram ea
Avian Rush - 1.35 gram ea
HQ T2.5x3.5x3 - 1.31 gram ea
HQ T65MMx3 - .82gram ea

I have been trying to figure out a way to get the VTX antenna mounted behind the rear post instead of next to it as it was getting tangled in the battery wires. As I was running things through my mind, I saw some 9 volt battery terminal covers sitting on my desk and saw the perfect solution. I enlarged one hole so that the VTX antenna fit snugly and used the other hole to mount it to the frame, easy peasy..... Now I have plenty of room and can have the battery back far enough that I can mount the Runcam Thumb Pro if I want to. I also moved the XT30 cable to the back.

                           

Hi Brett,

For efficiency, the bi-blade props seem to be the best. I get the best fly times with bi-blades
over tri-blades regardless of brands or styles. I have used both Gemfan Hurricane props and
HQProp ones. I am not sure that I can tell much difference.

My best fly time with my stock GEPRC Phantom with HQProp 65mm bi-blade props and a ViFly 
buzzer (that has the battery included) attached is 17 minutes and 26 seconds powered by a 
GNB 3S 1100 mAh battery that weighs just under 70 grams. All Up Weight = 124 grams.

This was easy flying and NO stunts, flips, etc. with throttle just enough to maintain flight
which is somewhere between 25 and 30 percent. 

The interesting thing is that my Phantom-X with 1303 5000 KV motors spinning Gemfan
Hurricane 4024 4-inch props is between 17:10 and 17:20 powered by a GNB 3S 1100 mAh
battery. All Up Weight = 176 grams. 

These are some of the best fly times that I have achieve with Li-Po batteries regardless of
the size of the quad. My average Fly Time is between 15 and 16 minutes with my sub-250
gram quads. I have gotten over 21 minutes using Li-Ion, but that pushed the weight over
250 grams so that is something that was only done as a test. 

That said, I have received the Flight Test FT EZ ID remote ID unit, I have the Spektrum
SkyID on order, and I am thinking about ordering a HolyStone remote ID module with
internal battery. I am going to register as a recreational pilot and add 1 or more of the
RID modules to my registration. Yeah, then I can legitimately fly 250 gram plus quads.

That is a good idea using the 9V battery cover. Nice. It looks good as well. 

Later, My Friend, iFly