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F4 SucceX-E F405 + TBS UNIFY PRO32 Smartaudio not working
#16
So TX6 is after death... I can recommend two colors wires if you want to fry some parts ?

Thank you guys for quick reaction and support... I would be f*cked up without your support and guru's experiences!!!
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#17
Maybe time to get an new FC. If you do then don't get another iFlight one. They are trash. Get an F7 FC from a more reputable FC manufacturer.
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#18
I bought this one because was cheap and I wasn't sure I can get it in the air. I saw Drone Mesh video and he was totally out from this FC. "The premium stack for budget price".
I am thinking about long range 7" quad. What F7 do you recommend? I need bluetooth, I hate cables...
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#19
All of Drone Mesh videos on the iFlight stuff was quite a while ago. Maybe it's just my perception but they seem to have gone downhill since then. I certainly wouldn't touch any of their F4 boards. Their F7 boards may be OK but I've lost trust in their products. You get what you pay for. Better to go with something from another FC manufacturer IMO.

If I was getting an F7 FC today, I would probably get a Matek F722 or a Holybro Kakute F7. If you want an FC with built-in bluetooth connectivity then there are only currently 3 on the market with that capability - the SpeedyBee F7 AIO, the Diatone Mamba F722, and the GEPRC GEP-F722-DUAL-BT. All of those are better than any offering from iFlight IMO.
[-] The following 1 user Likes SnowLeopardFPV's post:
  • ericz
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#20
Mamba looks awesome...
And what about ESC? Is it better to use some 4in1 ESC or use 4 different ESCs for every motor?
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#21
If you are doing long range, are you planning to use iNav? If so, be careful that your FC is supported.
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#22
Inav looks very usefull for the long range quad. I didn't checked all features of Inav. Inav is equivalent of the Betaflight if I understand clearly...?
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#23
(02-May-2020, 06:07 PM)ericz Wrote: And what about ESC? Is it better to use some 4in1 ESC or use 4 different ESCs for every motor?

Personal preference really. I'm probably in the minority in that I like the singles but decent singles seem to becoming rarer with manufacturers moving more towards 4in1's. There are pros and cons to both. Singles add more bulk, require a whole load of extra wires and soldering (either 32 or 40 more solder connections to be exact depending on whether you use the telemetry wire or not), and need wide arms to mount them on, while with 4in1's it mean replacing the whole expensive board if a single ESC pops, and if it catches fire it can also destroy the FC, VTX and receiver on the quad as well.

The Matek F7 and Holybro Kakute F7 are supported by iNav. The only bluetooth capable F7 FC currently supported by iNav is the Mamba F722S.
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#24
(02-May-2020, 09:18 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote:  while with 4in1's it mean replacing the whole expensive board if a single ESC pops, and if it catches fire it can also destroy the FC, VTX and receiver on the quad as well.

That´s pretty good reason to not be lazy and don´t using 4in1 solution. I saw only more wires and soldering and maybe better cooling of the ESC...

And the last question about the LR quad - which VTX and camera would you recommend? 
It´s little bit confusing - it looks like my TBS Unify nano has better range than T805 with much higher power. T805 has better parameters on the paper but in reality it´s no so good.
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#25
(02-May-2020, 11:06 PM)ericz Wrote: And the last question about the LR quad - which VTX and camera would you recommend? 
It´s little bit confusing - it looks like my TBS Unify nano has better range than T805 with much higher power. T805 has better parameters on the paper but in reality it´s no so good.

For a long range quad I would invest in and get one of the TBS Unify line of VTX's. They are more expensive than some of the others but when you are sending your quad out into the wilderness you want quality and reliability, which the TBS kit is.

Take the power output of some of the budget VTXs with a pinch of salt. The TBS VTXs have been proven to be close to their actual stated power output. Some of the others have just been proven to be blatant liars LOL

What type of camera? the FPV one or one for HD footage?
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#26
For FPV - I´ve tested only Runcam Oscar´s edition and I think it´s very good. It´s my first camera.
For HD footage - I am using older Gopro Hero 3+ bought from my friend for few bucks. There´s any alternative to Gopro? When I meet any tree or wall maybe I´ll need a new HD camera.
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#27
The newer RunCam Phoenix 2 is supposed to be one of the better cameras. I have a RunCam Eagle 2 Pro on my 5" which I really like but some people hate them. A load of new cameras have recently appeared on the market that I don't have much clue about. I would advise that you have a look through Gal Kremer's videos because he has an interesting and clever way of doing side-by-side camera comparisons. I honestly don't know how he flies a quad with all of those mounted on top Big Grin 

https://www.youtube.com/user/galkremer11/videos

Other's may have some recommendations so they can chip in if they do.

For HD video I'm just using a RunCam 5 (the slightly older black version, not the newer orange one) which does the job just fine for me and only cost $100. I don't really want to spend $300 on a GoPro Hero 7 or 8 when it will likely just end up getting smashed in a crash.
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#28
(02-May-2020, 11:42 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: I don't really want to spend $300 on a GoPro Hero 7 or 8 when it will likely just end up getting smashed in a crash.

My words...

The Orange Camera looks nice for the price. I don´t predict long living time of my Gopro.

Thanks for the recommendations.

Foxeer Cat 2 micro is my favorite... 

Actually I already saw some videos of this guy, can´t forget his accent and intonation  Smile
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#29
I have a toothless 2 coming. It looks pretty good in the comparison. And the Phoenix 2 also looks good.
[-] The following 1 user Likes voodoo614's post:
  • ericz
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#30
Unfortunately I think that I have the same problem.

FC: iFlight SucceX-E F4
VTX: TBS Unify Pro HV

Wired VTX SA to TX1 per iFlight instructions.

In BF: Device Ready: no

Is there some solution or am I supposed to learn to configure Unify via the button and LEDs?
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