Well, it looks like it has all been said, however, I will still put my 2 cents worth in.

For the solder, any iron that gets hot enough will get the job done. Mine is a simple 
(cheap $15 one from AMAZON) with the adjustment wheel taped at 425 C degrees.
I like it HOT. Quick in, Quick out. Although I have tried various tips including the chisel
tip, a "needle" tip, and others; the tip that I use all the time, for everything, is a medium
conical one. When soldering something big, I just lay the tip length wise and use a solder
bridge. XT60's, No problem. Using just the very point of the tip for tiny pads, No problem.

I have used 60/40 solder for decades without any issue, however, I have switched to the
63/37 Kester brand solder for its eutectic qualities; that is it melts precisely at 183 C degrees.
This is quality solder, if it doesn't melt, then the material has not yet reached 183 C degrees.

FLUX, FLUX, FLUX.  I have a "liquid" flux pen and I also have a tub of the MG Chemicals 8341
No Clean Flux Paste  <-- I LOVE this stuff; best flux that I have used so far.

Yeah, I have one of those brillo pad things...and... a wet paper towel {works as good as anything}.
 
You might find the following thread interesting:

[Tutorial]  How to Solder - Principles, Technics, Etc.  

Hello lovely people,
Here is where I am at...

I have purchased pretty much everything possible to help with this build. For those of you who are new to the thread:
1. The Hakko 888 arrived on time and is pretty solid. The sponge thing is absolutely gash but other than that – it does what it needs to do.
2. Hakko T18-C3 - T18 Series Soldering Tip for Hakko FX-888/FX-8801 - Bevel - 3 mm/45? x 14.5 mm - this is not what you want for the XT60 bullshit. IT has that chisel head but is too small.
3. Hakko T18-CF2 - T18 Series Soldering Tip for Hakko FX-888/FX-8801 - Bevel - 2 mm/45? x 14.5 mm - also not great for the XT60
4. Hakko T18-C5 - T18 Series Soldering Tip for Hakko FX-888/FX-8801 - Bevel - 5 mm/45? x 14.5 mm - THIS IS WHAT YOU WANT! Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00762...UTF8&psc=1
5. No, I don't rely on someone else for my budget - I am old AF, with a job and a frankly limitless budget (IRS aside – let’s not talk about that TY).


Having said all that...

1. Am I any further than I was the last time I posted? NO.
2. Did I learn something? Yes, Bananarama were overrated but let's be honest - the name was a work of marketing genius.
3. FPV related topics will now appear way more frequently in Google for ppl searching for "Bananarama"
4. My first build would have benefited from me not following Bardwell's "2021 perfect build". He's a pro, I am a (insert slur here). He’s been brilliant in educating me, but I believe I have found a simpler way to build this first quad. I’m sure I will come to regret saying this but for now, bear with me ?
5. The ESC I originally purchased looks like my ex-wife after a week at a chip shop: too crispy, covered in grease and not ready to jump into the sky

So... I picked up this overpriced silliness
iFlight Succex-D F7 V2.2 TwinG 2-6S 30x30 Stack/Combo for DJI (F7 FC / 32bit 60A 4in1 ESC)
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/if...-4in1-escI

I also ordered practice boards from Mute FPV: https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproj...Board.html
I have been soldering for literally HOURS.
I bought way too many. Well...I thought I did but the reality is that I have already f***** up at least six of these boards with my b******* soldering

As for the soldering….
It seems that I have gone too far the other way. My joints are now matte silver indicating that I am using too much heat.
No, I am not going to show you my “work” (yet). I will as soon as shit is shiny, and things aren’t falling from the sky.

Happy Monday everyone

(03-May-2022, 04:37 PM)Kuchenz Wrote: German? cause ESC angst

Go to ur next HIFI/Elektronikfachgeschäft store and ask very kind for leaded solder and tell them what u want to do with this.....if ure lucky "gibt der alte dir ne kleine Lernstunde" someone helps u

...but inform u about the risks of leaded solder and some flux ingridients before

As many others told u... the iron u choose is a nice one. a few Copper Sponges and u are eqipped for long time. (i dont like these wet sponges)
AND Always Put Solder on ur Iron before cooling down

Na ))))  Keine ESC angst aber ich habe mein Deutsch vergessen. Spoken like a true Brit with a solid six months of German

Good thing you’re killing your practice boards instead of good esc/fcs.

I run my soldering irons hot as hell- if you think you’re getting too much heat, that means you’re lingering too long.
Apply flux to pad. Make sure you’ve got some solder on the tip of your iron. Touch the tip to the pad and almost immediately add some solder to the pad, then lift the tip.

Apply flux to a wire. Make sure you’ve got some solder on your tip. Touch tip to wire, add solder from the other side.

When I say make sure you’ve got some solder on your tip, I mean a tiny little blob. You’re going to touch that blob and the tip to the pad or wire. That little blob helps bridge the tip and the thing you’re soldering to help the heat transfer more quickly.

Anyhow, now put that wire on top of the pad you previously put some solder on. Make sure you’ve got some solder on your tip, and put your tip either on top of the wire, or if there is enough room, on the pad and the side of the wire with that blob bridging the wire and pad. Add a little more solder if needed. Be quick.

Somewhere around here is a thread of shame full of pictures of how *not* to solder. You can actually learn a lot from it. It’s around here somewhere.

Edit- found it!
https://intofpv.com/t-how-not-to-solder

Don't be shy with the flux. You can never have too much and any left over excess is easy enough to clean off afterwards with Isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip / small toothbrush. After tinning the pad and wire, drown the tinned pad in flux and put a blob on the end of the tinned wire as well for good measure. It's the joint swimming in flux during the soldering process that keeps things looking shiny, so if you're too frugal with it then it will just burn away in a nano second which can then leave you with dull looking or "spiky" solder joints.

If you find your burning up way to many practice boards you can always just demo really old circuit boards that have devices you can actually see. Just solder them off then solder them back on. Gives you practice desoldering. 
    I don’t know if anyone mentioned this but soldering is a skill that takes some time to learn. You are not the first frustrated, most people can’t solder and once you learn you won’t forget even if it’s been a long time. Kinda like riding a bike.

A wise investment can be a fan that blows away the smoke from your face when you solder. I had a bad reaction after soldering for hours, a strong irritation in the eyes and breathing felt heavy.
Now i have a fan attached to a hose that suck out the smoke true the window. Some seem to be able to solder for years without issues with the smoke, others are more sensitive.
Not worth finding out after the fact!

(10-May-2022, 08:29 AM)Myman Wrote: A wise investment can be a fan that blows away the smoke from your face when you solder. I had a bad reaction after soldering for hours, a strong irritation in the eyes and breathing felt heavy.
Now i have a fan attached to a hose that suck out the smoke true the window. Some seem to be able to solder for years without issues with the smoke, others are more sensitive.
Not worth finding out after the fact!

Dude. Yes.
I have a small usb powered fan that I position to blow right to left across my workbench. Getting smoke and crap from flux and leaded solder in your eyes and lungs and sinuses sucks and is super unhealthy.

It’s also really great for blowing across a vtx when I’m bench testing things or updating firmware.

1)  You are NOT using too much heat. You might be staying on the board too long,
    but more likely NOT enough FLUX. More Flux, More Flux. Don't worry about getting
    FLUX on other pads or components, it will not hurt them.

    It is not about the heat of the iron, it is about the transfer of heat, how long it
    takes, and FLUX. When all of the flux burns off, the joint should be done. IF it
    isn't, then 1) apply more FLUX,  or 2) back off and take another hitch at it.

    The minute (or rather the second) that the solder melts, it is done...remove heat.
    Do keep in mind that you are heating the part, not melting the solder, with the
    iron. For a square pad, 
    1) touch the tip of the iron with solder, 
    2) touch the solder to one corner of the pad, 
    3) touch the tip of the iron to the diagonal corner, 
    4) the instant that the pad reaches temperature, 
        the solder will melt and cover the pad, 
    5) remove the heat...DONE.  

    Although shiny is good, I wouldn't sweat that too much right now. Focus on 
    getting a "feel" for how the soldering process goes. As you improve, so will
    the shiny.  The real truth is...shiny is good, but it doesn't necessarily mean 
    that the joint is bad. It will come in time.
    
    I solder EVERYTHING at 425 C degrees...from tiny pads to 14 gauge wire and
    don't have any issues...so, it is not the temperature of the iron. 

2)  The smoke is from the flux, NOT the solder. Although any smoke can be an irritant,
     most rosin based flux is made from the sap of pine tress and is not toxic. I have been
     soldering for over 50 years now and never used a fan. Maybe I should get one. 

     If you have issues, wear a mask; that is really the only way to prevent breathing 
     in stuff you don't want to breath. Ok,  a fan helps, but you will likely still breath 
     some in anyway. 
 
                [Edit: Text Deleted] 

     NOTE: Solder may melt at 183 C degrees, 
               but it doesn't vaporize at that temperature.

Hey lovely people.

I have to be honest, I feel like I'm still ******* this.

I used all the flux currently available in a 3,000 mile radius.
I used a tip more massive than a really massive thing.
I got a new solder iron - the fx888 whatever
I bought a bunch of solder practice boards from Mute FPV
I hung a bunch of a heavier shit off those boards

BUT IT'S ALL MATTE AF! NO SHINY!

Are ANY of these joints legit?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/67zoseu1F89ezwR5A

Don't worry about it too much. As long as you can get a strong joint its fine for what we do with our quads. Overtime you will get better at it.

I assume you are using leaded solder? Tin/Lead: 63/37 or 60/40 should do wonders.

Another tip is cleaning the joint with Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) (any high concentration above 80% will do) and an old tooth brush helps clean all the dirty flux residue and makes the joints look shiny.

Couple things- trim your wire leads shorter before you solder. All that exposed wire is dangerous.

I saw a couple good joints in there. You’re getting it, keep practicing. Don’t be afraid to add a bit more solder.

When a build allows for it and a board has those semicircular indents in the pad- try turning your wire 90 degrees to the board, the wire will sit nicely in that indent.

I love that clamp/light/stand/table thing you have. It’s pretty awesome.

Sometimes a picture/video is easier to learn from than text as you can see how it should look instead of trying to visualizing what it should be. This one is good i think.

Awesome video of top10 noob soldering.
Dripping flux on the solder wire.. really?
Loads solder on iron tip.. waits 20sec.. applies on wire.
Poor dude takes like 20min to do a 2 min job.

Just goes to show how flux can overcome silly methods.

(11-May-2022, 05:45 AM)SkyPig Wrote: Hey lovely people.

I have to be honest, I feel like I'm still ******* this.

I used all the flux currently available in a 3,000 mile radius.
I used a tip more massive than a really massive thing.
I got a new solder iron - the fx888 whatever
I bought a bunch of solder practice boards from Mute FPV
I hung a bunch of a heavier shit off those boards

BUT IT'S ALL MATTE AF! NO SHINY!

Are ANY of these joints legit?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/67zoseu1F89ezwR5A

Will it work. Yes.
Good - no.

Surface clearly not smooth.