Greetings!

For long, I've been planning about starting building my own FPV drone and to get into this hobby. Following channels like FliteTest and rctestflight for many years. I decided that a good kick-start in 2024 was to build the Troncat FPV's (YouTube channel) build from the video "Build a 6s Freestyle FPV drone for $200". ()

Here's a BOM list:

Frame: Sourceone V5
Stack: Speedybee F405 V3 (I'm going with V4)
Motors: T-Motor Velox V3 V2207 1750kv
VTX: Happymodel OVX303 25-300mw 
Camera: Foxeer Razer Micro 1200tvl 4:3 camera
Receiver: Happymodel 2.4ghz EP1
Props: Azure Power Johnny Freestyle 4.8

And "3 PACK of RDQ Series 22.2V 6S 1300mAh 100C LiPo Battery - XT60".


I'm still going to pick radio and goggles. (I have a Meta Quest 3 VR headset. Is that salvageable? I saw some people doing FPV with it on YouTube, but kinda clumsy. Anyway, it would be cool to be able to use it as well, I like to play MSFS on it)

But before committing to it, I thought it was a good idea to register and to post about it here. I'm an experienced software developer, with good experience in DIY electronics, Arduino and other hobbies like amateur astrophotography and amateur radio. I was always fascinated by Ardupilot and all kinds of drone automations, being it quads, planes, boats, or what. So I'm thinking it would be nice to have something that I could maybe test with Ardupilot later, or any other kind of automation. Fitting it with other instruments later on, etc.

Also, I'm interested into long range flight, so it would be nice to have some with those features. But IDK, that might be too much for my first build.

By the way, I really want to build it instead of buying one. I like to build stuff, that's where I find a good part of the fun.

What do you folks say? Any tips?
Thank you!

Welcome! Good for you trying out FPV and building your first drone. It is a very enjoyable hobby. One topic to consider is going analog vs. digital. While going analog on your first build will be cheaper, you might consider going digital from the start. There are plenty of pilots flying analog, but many have jumped into digital all-in. Your background is very well suited to FPV. It is definitely a hobby for people who like to build things, and understand tech. I'm sure some more experienced users will chime in soon.

PS: On the radio side, I strongly urge you to get a radio using ELRS (expresslrs.org). It is a fantastic protocol.

Why do you want a 6S heavy Quad for your first Quad? 

Ok you have asked for it   an opinion or a hint, and it's quite o.K. to think my opinion is no good, and my suggestion that is not for building the quad but going for a BNF that can be turn it into something else later, as with a build process and it often cheaper to obtain parts from a BNF  than buying all the parts separately and building from scratch.

Forget about the Quest 3 VR for your headset stuff, still might be useful for reviewing digital flight footage (a reason why I will be suggesting digital VTX flight system.)

As you don't have Goggles, Radio etc, this area is where to invest your $$$. May be consider jumping straight to Digital, possibly a Walksnail setup
Looking at RDQ prices

• Fat Shark Dominator HD FPV Goggles Current price US$417.99
  
• Fat Shark Recon HD FPV Goggles US$307.99 
  
• Walksnail Avatar HD Goggles X US$504
  

You could still go for analog goggle but a "good" analog headset, but those can be just as expensive, the VTXs are cheaper, maybe a suggestion would be Skyzone Sky04L or Sky040 or similar if you would like to go that way.

For the Radio maybe 
Jumper T Pro V2 2.4G 1000mW ExpressLRS ELRS Radio Controller
or
RadioMaster Pocket 2.4GHz 16CH ELRS

Personally I have the Jumper T Pro, and I find it really good,it runs EdgeTX, and I have already setup some LUA scripts, and program a screen for line of sight flying display telemetry about the Quad's battery status and GPS position. Anyway what I like about these radio is that they are small and portable, with hall sensors, so the feel good to fly with, the Jumper T Pro comes with a case to throw into the back pack, and the RadioMaster Pocket has to be a good option as well with removable sticks etc.

For the first drone consider the BNF Happymodel 2S Mobula8 ELRS Walksnail edition -- It great value for a BNF, that's digital -- it's cheaper than building as with parts etc.

Why the Mobula8.

• It's come with a 405 AIO flight controller that has plenty of UART serial ports, great for your future of adding GPS, and other components as with for your future flight automation plans like adding extra sensors etc. 
  
• Mobula8 comes with blackbox, great for using gyro data and using the Walksnail DVR video with Gyroflow.
  
• It has a great combination of the 1103 11000KV motors with the Gemfan Hurricane 2023 Tri-blade propellers, nice and powerful for what it is, and gives good flight time and is a very quiet flyer.
  
• This type of quad that can be flown anywhere, indoors, outdoors, through a playgrounds, under cars, through trees, diving buildings -- fun stuff that is what a Mobula8 is good for.
  
• Mobula8 is IGOW compliant (International Game of Whoop) https://www.internationalgameofwhoop.com/ 
  

Now when you get tire of the Mobula8, you can always use the parts for building a quality toothpick, I am actually looking at a Geprc  Smart HD 2.5 Toothpick frame at this moment -- it might be my next build

Just as a note 2S Batteries are why cheaper than 6S batteries. e.g Gaoneng GNB 7.6V 2S 550mAh 100C LiHV Micro Battery with XT30 it's only US$7.69 at RDQ

(27-Jan-2024, 02:17 PM)Cyberess Wrote: Why do you want a 6S heavy Quad for your first Quad?

Because that's what every influencer recommends.  You rarely see anyone with common sense in the big quad influencer category on YT.  They tell people to build super powerful quads, that cost massive amounts of money to repair when they crash and use the most expensive batteries, I guess because most affiliate links give them income.  What they don't do is tell new pilots about the 70mph missile they are creating that can kill them or kill other people, destroy property, nor the fact they will be so loud that every cop for 5 miles around will know you are flying and in some countries will converge on you to see if you have all your paperwork in order (and maybe to get a quick arrest/fine if you don't).  But in this life you live to learn and sometimes it's the hard knock method.

But who am I to recommend what people fly.  I have made recommendations in the past, but people seem to have massive penis problems in this hobby and always want to go for the 5 inchers when they start and generally 6S, because it's a big frame with a big battery and some of them probably have a big ego too.  Well until they smash their new toy into something hard and then need to spend big money to fix/replace it. 

A guy I talked to at a bando did the same when he started out.  He was advised a 5 inch Nazgul, with 6S power and a Go Pro was where it was at as a starter quad.  He lasted 5 mins before he flew it into a wall, at full throttle.  Had full DJI on it, whichever Go Pro was top at the time.  Was the most expensive rocket he'd ever flown and in 5 mins of flying he destroyed about £1000 worth of kit.  He quit for two years after it, but was coaxed back in by someone else who sold him an 85mm whoop to learn on.  Do proper research.  If you watch a Mr Steele video and think you can buy a 5 inch and fly like that on your first session, you need psychiatric help first before you buy anything.  That is called delusions.  Most of the big influencers have been flying for 10 years or more.  You will never be Mr Steele on your first session.

A good kit for a beginner is a Mob7 or Meteor75.  When you can stay in the air, in acro for 3 mins without crashing (not hard to do), can turn, maybe do flips, rolls, yaw spins (even badly) and possibly a power loop.  Then you buy a bigger quad, but not necessarily a 5 inch quad. Maybe a 3 inch on 3-4S and fly that for a year.  Then and only after you have the skill, respect and general knowledge of flying quads, do you start considering the big leagues.  

If you crash an analogue 75mm whoop, big deal.  Pick it up, flip it over, go fly again.  If you fly that 75mm into your head, well go fly some more and try and avoid doing it again.  

If you crash a 3 inch, same stuff, but it might cost you something to fix it.  If you crash it into your head or body, it's going to hurt, but probably won't kill you if you are lucky.  

That 5 inch, well if you crash it badly, you are looking at props, maybe motors, maybe the ESC, if it's got digital, maybe a new $70 camera or worst case maybe a new VTX, new arms for the frame.  Repair costs could be into the hundreds.

Repair costs between say a 75mm whoop and a 5 inch are exponentially more.  You break a whoop frame its a few dollars.  You break a camera its $15.  VTX $15.  New FC $40-60.  On a 5 inch you could be looking at much more an even more with digital

Some do go straight to 6S, not all cause mayhem.  But you can cause mayhem.

The other thing is legal.  Most 6S birds weigh more than 250g, so in the US you have to take a pilots test with the FAA and install RemoteID.  In the UK, you have to register with the CAA and mark all your quads with your Operator ID number and keep your flyer id on you when flying for when the police ask for it.  In Europe similar rules exist.  I think in some arab countries and asia they just throw you in prison.  Know the local laws for flying bigger quads in your own country.

+1 about the Mobula8, whether digital or analog. Nice flyer, easy to learn on. Long flight times on 2S.

@Viking Thank you! I'll definitely be going digital and ELRS. I decided that I won't build the drone I've posted. But I'll start smaller and build my way up.

@Cyberess Thanks! This is really nice. The Mobula8 looks amazing and ideal for someone starting. Thanks for all the insights.

@Pathfinder075 You're right. In fact, your post me prompted me to start reading all the local legislation about drones and FPV (there's a lot). Also, it's a weapon. You're more than right. I'll be taking all the precautions, and I'll be sure to have everything registered and authorized by the local regulators. This is important.

Now, when it comes to the regulations, I'm from Brazil. The ICA 100-40 is the first official document about this matter I'm reading, there are others and I plan to read all of them. It's about drones, radios, flight, restrictions, limitations, obligations, etc. I think I'll try to register myself as a "professional drone pilot", which is a category that will give me a bit more of freedom. I'm still studying.

I bought the Liftoff drone simulator on the Steam. And I'm playing it with my Bluetooth XBox controller. I'm trying to stay on the ACRO mode. Is that the most common model? Or is it LEVEL? Also, I played it using the Meta Quest 3 VR headset, just to "feel" as if it was an FPV. Quite fun. I'll try to master the simulator first. It's hard! Haha.

With that, during the time I study and practice, I think it might be a good idea to buy a controller already. So I can practice on the simulator with it. I'm thinking a lot about the Jumper T20 (and the T20S). What do you folks say? Any other suggestions apart from the ones already mentioned? I think this will be a good controller for me.

As I said, the Mobula8 is quite interesting. I think I'll get one of these, but only after I've studied enough and practiced enough on the simulator.

For now, I'll continue reading, browsing, watching videos, reading the regulations and playing the simulator.

@UglyBob - You are definitely on the right track! Using Liftoff, then whoops, will get you ready to fly a larger quad. I can tell by your thought process and research that you are going to do very well in this hobby. Keep us posted on what radio you choose. There are quite a few options that are really good. My first sim was Liftoff. Then I graduated to the Blade Inductrix FPV tiny whoop (what a pig!). Next, up to 2" Emax BabyHawk, 3" BabyHawk, 3" Diatone Cube, and finally, the Emax Hawk 5. In the end, I came full circle back to the Mobula 6. Tiny Whoops are just a blast to race in my house, and being able to fly no matter the weather is so liberating. 

I took a break from the hobby in 2020, and am now diving back in and leaning heavily toward building a 3.5" Walksnail cruiser/light freestyle quad. The digital systems are just as mesmerizing to me as when HDTV launched. Take care.

Thanks @Viking! That's me playing Liftoff with the XBox controller using the Meta Quest 3 VR headset. Too bad the default headset recording aspect ratio is so small.



I'm still learning the basics. I enjoy the ACRO mode. I wonder if expensive drones would be using other modes like LEVEL.

Sorry my last post was a bit ranty. :/ But the gist was put over.

If you want to start on 5 inch, don't start on 6S. 4S is more forgiving and less powerful, but still pretty powerful. You can take a 4S bird and swap the motors to get a 6S bird very easily when you are ready assuming the ESC is big enough, then do a touch of tuning and be on your merry way. The other thing is cost. 6S batteries are expensive. 4S are expensive too, but more affordable expensive (especially if you keep an eye out for deals). Like $30 a Lipo vs $20 sort of money. If you crash hard on a battery and it does happen, you might lose the battery if you are unlucky (which I nearly did on a brand new 3S pack the other week).

Ideally you start on a whoop, but you could also start on a 2-3 inch. But bigger generally means you need to have your piloting skills in order. So full manual/acro, easy cruising flight with light acro for 3-5 mins, without crashes. Or if you want to compare to Liftoff, do a full racing map without crashing in acro mode (finish times irrelevant, it's more about the control aspect than getting good times). Liftoff teaches you control, but it doesn't teach you environmental factors like bright sun, wind and rain, not that i would recommend flying in the rain until you understand the problems associated with that.

5 inch 6S is like the top level and with it comes a need for a lot of knowledge of quads besides the flying part (software, tuning, component knowledge, electronics, soldering, troubleshooting). There are a bunch of risks and responsibilities tied to flying things that generally weigh 300-500g and are super quick. You get max response to everything, but if you can't fly then you are going to end up breaking a lot of expensive quads. Break cheap quads first then you won't break as many expensive ones.

As to using angle mode, do what suits the situation. In time you learn to do most stuff in acro, but I'm not against flicking into angle in certain situations. Such as, taking off after a crash on uneven ground, or after using turtle. I will switch to angle, take off, hover, switch back to acro and then fly. Landing in strong winds is another possible situation I will use angle. Test flights of new quads, first flight I always use angle and do some basic tests like yaw spins, flying in each direction (forwards, backwards, left, right, up, down), then some basic close in flights, maybe pop the throttle, just generally make sure it isn't going to fall out of the sky for some reason when I go to acro and make sure the gyro/accelerometer are working correctly.

@Pathfinder075 Nah, you're good! I think you did great.

Thank you for the tips. I'm still playing Liftoff with the XBox controller, I'm waiting for my Jumper T20 to arrive, so I'll start practicing with it. I'm also thinking seriously about going with the Walksnail system, and later to buy a Walksnail Goggles X with a Mobula8 with the same video system. I'm also dreaming about getting a Walksnail VRX and to use it on my desktop or my VR headset, just to play around my residence. I currently live in a big house. And it's considerable cheaper than the goggles, especially when you consider the Brazil's importation tax rates of 60% federal, 15% state, all on top of the product + freight total cost. No bueno.

More over, if I'm going Walksnail, a VRX was going to be something I would buy anyway at some point. IDK, I'm still thinking about this idea.

Either way, thank you!

Welcome