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Blue Steel-Tomoquads Katana 2 Long Range build
#1
Since the whole world has been on fire here in Arizona, I haven't had much of a chance to fly my 7" in the mountains like I want to. Oh well, more time to build. I've decided to go micro long range this time and bought a 4" dead cat style frame. I really liked the Katana and decided to pull the trigger on this one. Now of course in the maiden flight i tried to turtle it and burned one of the motors so I have to wait for the replacement to show up before i can get any flight footage. Rookie mistake on my part. Here is my build.

Frame- Tomoquads Katana 2

Flight Controller- Flywoo Goku F722 20x20

ESC- Flywoo Goku 406S 40A 

VTX- AKK Ultimate 3 

Motors- BetaFPV 1507 3600KV

RX- Crossfire Nano

Camera- Caddx Tarsier

VTX Antenna- TBS Triumph

GPS- Matek MQ8-5883

This was a very tight build and probably the hardest build I've done yet. Here are some pictures.


[Image: zs7Qodil.jpg]

[Image: cWekOgIl.jpg]

[Image: mGzmQ5Tl.jpg]

[Image: MV4QvDxl.jpg]

[Image: 2i9KaYnl.jpg]

Its a little heavier than i wanted it to be. Only time will tell if i can get some good flight times and push this thing to the limits. 
I'm thinking about calling this build Blue Steel. Thoughts?
[-] The following 7 users Like wllmlutz's post:
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#2
Looking sick man!! Very clean job for what you felt was very tight.

I will be joining the Katana Klub soon too lol.

YES YES ON THE BLUE STEEL LOLOL ...

[Image: zf6AdO8.jpg]
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#3
wll ... couple quick questions for you now that I'm also planning out my build. I'm using mostly recycled parts.

Is there decent space between the stacks?

How are the lock nuts that secure the arms to the body? I normally see countersunk nuts but I think this frame just uses regular lock nuts. My concern was it being too close to the electronics.

I really like your lipo connector setup and that Immortal "L" action. Nice job man. I'm sure I'll be bugging you a lot Blue Steel LOLLLL.
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  • wllmlutz
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#4
Thanks man. There isnt much room in this frame but if you are creative you can make things fit. If you are only doing 2 board stacks you will have no problem. I was able to keep good space between the flight controller and the esc but on the back side I put the tarsier stack along with a 20x20 vtx. Tight. Tight. Tight. I have enough space that electronics arent touching each other but wire management was a different story. All the frame hardware is loose. It comes with button top screws and nuts. It is all m2 hardware. What I did was put the nuts on the bottom of the frame and there isn't anything touching electronics. I have the rx behind the camera with double sided tape. In order to have everything you need for long range you have to get creative. I have a Vifly buzzer also but i havent figured out where to put it. You'll have fun with this frame.
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#5
[Image: 3L4Y8ODl.jpg]

This will give you an idea of how tight this frame is. Look at how close the props get to the frame. I had to put the vtx on top just so the props wouldn't run into the camera boards. Glad you got the Blue Steel reference lol. "How are you going to fly that thing if you cant even fit into the cockpit"  ROFL
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#6
Oh yea I'm cool on those tolerances. That's a huge gap compared to the micro I just lost lol. Tons of room. I'm more concerned about the ESC-FC cable on my stack bumping up against the Tarsier stack.

I'm really surprised they went M3!! Wow. Ok. Good call on the nuts. I'll prolly do the same. I'd read your post before you edited it where it said M3 screws and I was shaking my head going whyyyy?? loll Blue Steel is looking Fila Fresh brother!!!! Big GrinBig GrinBig Grin
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#7
(06-Jul-2020, 04:30 AM)the.ronin Wrote: Oh yea I'm cool on those tolerances.  That's a huge gap compared to the micro I just lost lol.  Tons of room.  I'm more concerned about the ESC-FC cable on my stack bumping up against the Tarsier stack.

I'm really surprised they went M3!!  Wow.  Ok.  Good call on the nuts.  I'll prolly do the same.  I'd read your post before you edited it where it said M3 screws and I was shaking my head going whyyyy??  loll  Blue Steel is looking Fila Fresh brother!!!!  Big GrinBig GrinBig Grin

That was a mistype on the m3 bolts. I fixed it . they are actually m2. My bad.
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#8
Wllm, 
Good Job, man.  Thumbs Up   Have you gotten Blue Steel in the air yet?  Look forward to seeing how it performs.

I like your parts list.  High Five  Looks good.

ronin,

Is this your "In memory of Ghost Recon" Build? What stack are going to use on the Katana project?

My build is a little behind you guys, but I will be in the Katana Klub, too. 
I am still "up in the air" about what stack to use  Thinking ???  ...and... motors. I am looking for a pretty efficient drive train. I lean towards long fly times rather than speed.
______________________________________
My BUILDS  ||   My INDEX   ||  Parts Guide  <-- Download


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#9
(06-Jul-2020, 03:17 PM)iFly4rotors Wrote:  Thinking ???  ...and... motors. I am looking for a pretty efficient drive train. I lean towards long fly times rather than speed.

Did you see my post: https://intofpv.com/t-shopping-at-fpvcycle

I picked up 4 of the 2203 3450KV at 10% off (and free shipping)...
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#10
Lol slo, I actually checked looking for some motors for my own Katana build. Unfortunately the only thing they have close to a 1404-ish motor are "4 inch motors" that are not available. Otherwise that is a sweet deal.

iFly, I'm recycling random parts to save a on cash ... Kakute F7 mini stack (ESC recycled), NIN motors (off my Acrobrat which is getting beefier TMotors), Caddx Tarsier (new ... that one hurt lol), TBS Nano Xfire (new ... these are very hard to find currently, btw), Beitian 880 GPS (old), and 4 inch Gemfan and HQ bi-blade props I still have.
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#11
(06-Jul-2020, 03:17 PM)iFly4rotors Wrote: Wllm, 
Good Job, man.  Thumbs Up   Have you gotten Blue Steel in the air yet?  Look forward to seeing how it performs.

I like your parts list.  High Five  Looks good.

ronin,

Is this your "In memory of Ghost Recon" Build? What stack are going to use on the Katana project?

My build is a little behind you guys, but I will be in the Katana Klub, too. 
I am still "up in the air" about what stack to use  Thinking ???  ...and... motors. I am looking for a pretty efficient drive train. I lean towards long fly times rather than speed.
Thanks buddy! I did a hover test and while adjusting trim I hit the ground and flipped over. when trying to flip back over I burned one of the motors. I have one coming express delivery so hopefully tomorrow. Rookie mistake on my part, I pushed it too hard. I knew it was bad when I did it too. Hopefully have a flight video by this weekend. If I can figure out this camera lol.
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#12
They really need to revisit this turtle mode. It's so bad for motors and/or ESCs. Maybe rather than go 0-100 have the motors ramp even a bit.

Anyway man sorry for the mishap. But sounds like you got Amazon Prime so all good lololol.

Can't wait to see some video!!!
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#13
By the way, iFly, I went nuts looking high and low for motors for my other 4 incher. Here's what I found (note I am using a 3S system spinning 4 inch bi-blades) ...

iFlight Xing 1404 3800kv (9mm motor mounting) - I used these for the Ghost Recon 4 incher and while being super nothcy motors and my hating iFlight, I really cannot complain.

Betaflight 1404 3800kv (12mm) - In my effort to purge anything iFlight, I fixed something not broke. These motors were a bit less notchier. But otherwise seemed to fly the same.

NIN 1404 3750kv (12mm) - I have these on my Acrobrat and plan to use them on the Katana. They seem to throw the Acrobrat around just fine so I'm thinking they should work great at the much lighter but slightly bigger propped Katana.

These other motors I have not tried but have considered. I stuck to shaftless motors due to weight:

Emax Eco 1404 3700kv - primary rationale for these is price ... $11 lawls
Emax RS 1408 3600kv - big beefy motors!!
TMotor F1507 3800kv - even bigger beefier motors!!
Airblade Superman AB 1404 3850kv - made by Canadians, eh.
Airblade Superman AB 1606 3600kv - only 1606 in 9mm mounting ... and made by Canadians, eh.
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#14
I never use turtle mode for that very reason. I always just resign myself to the fact that if I crash I will have to take the walk of shame Big Grin

The only reason I have turtle mode configured is in case of an emergency situation like being stuck in a tree where I have a choice of potentially sacrificing an ESC in order to try and get my quad back. Other than that, my turtle mode switch remains firmly in the OFF position.
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#15
^^ smart.
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