Sooo...  I've been flying for about 8 mos.  Started with a Tinyhawk II, graduated to a TH2 Freestyle and am considering starting a 5" build.

I want to build it myself, but I kinda like the idea of a DIY build with the components already chosen for me to simplify things for my first go-round.  I chose the Badger 5 DIY kit.
 
Badger 5 DIY kit


I'll stick with analog for now, but I'd probably convert to digital eventually when I'm ready to spring for digital goggles. 


My questions for those with more experience: )
#1.  Are there any objections to this as a first build choice?

#2.  KV option are:
1700kv for 6s
1900kv for 5s
2400kv for 4s

I'd characterize my flying style as more "flow"-sh I guess and less "grit"?  And not interested in racing or aggressive aerobatics (I'm in awe of Mr. Steele's flying skills, but it gives me a headache.  haha!)

What factors would determine the best KV choice?  I've watched tons of Youtube videos trying to figure out why you'd choose one over the others but I can't figure it out?

Thanks in advance for sharing your experience!
Sam

I still fly a 4s freestyle quad and have no regret's.

High KV on 4S or low KV on 6S results in roughly the same RPM. The whole concept of KV and voltage is to get the desired RPM at the motor and also maintain efficiency. 

6S handles voltage sag better than 4S.

4S lipos are relatively cheaper compared to 6S.

Forget about 5S since the lipos tend to be difficult to source and is not really the current trend.

there isnt the best kv choice, it depends on your kind of flying. 4s vs 6s is not that important, i like to add to kafie words: 4s builds are flown with smaller batteries and are therefor a bit more nimble and more durable in crashes...
todays 6s builds are flown with heavy batteries, such heavy batteries would sag alot and would decrease the performance a lot on 4s, but there are not only benefits...

i fly still mostly 4s

i believe steel started on 3s batteries, go to 4s later and flies 6s now :-) so you cant go realy wrong for freestyle maneuvers :-)

Ok, sounds like I'll start with the 2400kv & 4s then! It sounds like it can be a bit subjective? Maybe thats why I wasn't finding any definitive advice either way.

Just out of curiosity... what happens then if I fly the 1700kv motors on 4s?

(28-Nov-2021, 05:14 PM)SamGIII Wrote: Ok, sounds like I'll start with the 2400kv & 4s then!  It sounds like it can be a bit subjective?  Maybe thats why I wasn't finding any definitive advice either way.

Just out of curiosity... what happens then if I fly the 1700kv motors on 4s?

The aircraft will trade some "off the line" performance for lower power draw.  Your quad will fly more like a cruiser than an F1 car.  It will fly fine through.  I went from 2400kv to 1750kv motors and the difference was noticeable, but it is totally fly happy.  Just have to fly ahead of yourself a little if you like to push things.

Thanks Kaity! That helps.

That's kinda what I was getting at because I might prefer the cruiser for a while until my badass ripping skillz develop. Better to cruise into the wall/post/ground than rip into it. Haha!

Sam

LOL...I find either way to be bad! Having "cruised" into things over the years, the soldering and arm swaps are the same

I hope you do not take it that the lower kv motors on 4S will be dogs. They will get out of their own way in a right hurry if the throttle is pushed!

(28-Nov-2021, 05:14 PM)SamGIII Wrote: Just out of curiosity... what happens then if I fly the 1700kv motors on 4s?

Racers are flying 6S builds on 3S similar to what they refer to as Feeedom Spec in the US. 

I have done this after Hugs suggested this in another thread with 4S lipos on my 6S race quad with 1800KV motors. 

I can feel the difference in performance with more stick resolution but then we get more flight time. 

Long story short its very flyable.