Posts: 795 Threads: 27 Likes Received: 242 in 203 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 11 Yes I saw a thread about flying FPV using a monitor instead of goggles. Then I lost the thread. So I am starting another one. Just for grins I wanted to see if I can fly FPV looking at a monitor. 1) I only started flying FPV since February. Since it is all about visual image and how I react by looking at the image I am still very new to FPV. Even the different field of view from the cameras and camera angles can through me off a bit. 2) I do have 4 sets of goggles. Both analog and digital (Fat Shark/Walksnail). 3) I just wanted something simple without putting something on my face. Yes goggles are great for immersion without distractions. So I started by looking at my little 4.3" monitor that I used for bench test. It worked to a point but not that easy. Then I bought a 7" Eachine analog monitor. That's the largest I can find in analog. It worked relatively well. One major issue I realized after using the monitor. The monitor and my transmitter want to occupy the SAME physical space. Mounting the monitor on a tripod does not help because the transmitter now is hitting the tripod legs. I want to be as close to the monitor as possible since sitting farther away makes it harder to fly. So I made up (repurpose really) a PVC pipe rack that I put the monitor on top and stuck the transmitter under the monitor. Anyone has a reasonable setup? This concept was brought on by iFly4motors's idea with the HD Zero monitor that can go digital (HD Zero) and analog. However the HD Zero monitor is only 5". For digital I was thinking about using a computer monitor with HDMI or even a TV. Then I can probably sit back a bit farther without the transmitter hitting the monitor. No, the Eachine monitor is not the greatest. Image quality is only fair and those stupid blinking red lights (they show which antenna is active, I think) is very distracting. I am going to try to connect my SpeedBee analog VRX by plugging in the AV input receptacle to see if I can disable the internal VRX. Anyway, just here to stir up trouble. Thoughts? • Posts: 6,159 Threads: 172 Likes Received: 2,297 in 1,844 posts Likes Given: 4,755 Joined: Feb 2019 Reputation: 103 Latency, it kills the locked in feel and handling, the flightpleasure. The hd zero monitor or the eachine monitor might be nice ? I would expect much latency by hdmi to a tv monitor. Juts like to warn, dont miss that danger. Goggles are highly optimized in many ways, seems monitor flying never went very popular, there mighg be some rabitholes on the way to a good monitor settup. • Posts: 2,072 Threads: 68 Likes Received: 1,156 in 839 posts Likes Given: 105 Joined: Jan 2023 Reputation: 59 If you are flying analog, just get a receiver with AV out and connect it to any monitor with a RCA jack. I flew some whoops using the living room flat screen 75"? Otherwise if you just want a portable solution, maybe get a boom and attach it to the top of your head via a hardhat, or maybe some shoulder rig. I was told these are the latest models and outselling all other VR headsets. Posts: 795 Threads: 27 Likes Received: 242 in 203 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 11 (27-Jun-2024, 12:04 AM)mstc Wrote: If you are flying analog, just get a receiver with AV out and connect it to any monitor with a RCA jack. I flew some whoops using the living room flat screen 75"? Otherwise if you just want a portable solution, maybe get a boom and attach it to the top of your head via a hardhat, or maybe some shoulder rig. I was told these are the latest models and outselling all other VR headsets. ROFLMAO, You have too much time on your hand. My SpeedBee analog VRX has an AV out jack that can plug right into the monitor. Not too many of my TV has AV input options. I have hard hats and hard hat liners. I have been looking and scheming to see how I can create a mount for the goggles like DJI did. • Posts: 795 Threads: 27 Likes Received: 242 in 203 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 11 (26-Jun-2024, 10:46 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: Latency, it kills the locked in feel and handling, the flightpleasure. The hd zero monitor or the eachine monitor might be nice ? I would expect much latency by hdmi to a tv monitor. Juts like to warn, dont miss that danger. Goggles are highly optimized in many ways, seems monitor flying never went very popular, there mighg be some rabitholes on the way to a good monitor settup. I assume you are talking about latency with digital and TV. I think analog is fine and I only fly around the house indoor with the monitor. So not much trouble there. • Posts: 1,435 Threads: 123 Likes Received: 1,440 in 748 posts Likes Given: 1,146 Joined: Jun 2019 Reputation: 42 Just use a computer monitor if you can. The bigger the better I've found. Biggest challenge is fighting your peripheral vision. This vision is instinct based and less cognitive. You need to actively fight subconscious instincts to not get distracted. Sounds fancy and I'm prolly not explaining it well but if found it to be a thing, for me.anyways. • Posts: 795 Threads: 27 Likes Received: 242 in 203 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 11 (27-Jun-2024, 11:42 PM)ph2t Wrote: Just use a computer monitor if you can. The bigger the better I've found. Biggest challenge is fighting your peripheral vision. This vision is instinct based and less cognitive. You need to actively fight subconscious instincts to not get distracted. Sounds fancy and I'm prolly not explaining it well but if found it to be a thing, for me.anyways. I hear you. I have been flying with the 7" monitor. Yes my first impression was distraction. If I can see movement from the quad it takes a lot to focus just on the image on the monitor. If I take the quad to another room it is much easier. Yes I think the bigger the monitor the better but not sure if I can easily get an analog connected to a computer monitor. I just found out I cannot connect my SpeedBee VRX to the 7" monitor. The SpeedBee has a 3.5mm jack and the AV input holes on the monitor is tiny. It came with some connectors but I don't think it is easy to adapt. OTOH I have some antennas I tried on the 7" monitor and they do work quite well. Very little flicker when flying indoor from room to room. • Posts: 2,702 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 1,434 in 1,077 posts Likes Given: 857 Joined: Apr 2022 Reputation: 43 This Rotor Riot video from three years back is basically what you want. Albeit they are using HDZero, but it should work for you on a big computer led. Try Not, Do or Do Not - Yoda • Posts: 1,435 Threads: 123 Likes Received: 1,440 in 748 posts Likes Given: 1,146 Joined: Jun 2019 Reputation: 42 The bugger is the whole composite video out from analog. Have you tried do this with your walksnail goggles? Flying indoors woth my.whoops on a 60" screen that can do 1080p60 is sweet. The HDMI interface from the goggles is a pain, you need the right type of usb-c to hdmi cable. Once that is sorted it does play nicer with compatibility with modern screens. • Posts: 795 Threads: 27 Likes Received: 242 in 203 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 11 (28-Jun-2024, 02:07 AM)ph2t Wrote: The bugger is the whole composite video out from analog. Have you tried do this with your walksnail goggles? Flying indoors woth my.whoops on a 60" screen that can do 1080p60 is sweet. The HDMI interface from the goggles is a pain, you need the right type of usb-c to hdmi cable. Once that is sorted it does play nicer with compatibility with modern screens. I actually have the Walksnail VRX and it can connect via HDMI fairly easily. However I don't have a quad small enough to fly in the house. If I fly outdoor I may as well just put on my goggles. Posts: 795 Threads: 27 Likes Received: 242 in 203 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 11 (28-Jun-2024, 02:02 AM)Pathfinder075 Wrote: This Rotor Riot video from three years back is basically what you want. Albeit they are using HDZero, but it should work for you on a big computer led. Thanks, I have a hard time watching videos from Rotor Riot. They used a camera person that really did not know how to shoot videos. Way too much fast panning and unnecessary zoom in and out. Made me sea sick. I am the old school style photographer. I prefer the camera to be perfectly still and let the "talent" do all the motion. • Posts: 2 Threads: 1 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Jun 2024 Reputation: 0 hey im new to fpv world, anyone knows why my smartaudio won’t work, im using speedybee f405 v3 and rush tank ultimate plus, when im using uart 1 it won’t change to TBS Smartaudio, it will always go back to MSP+Displayport, then i tried to change to uart 7, the vtx status is ready but i cant change the power, bands, and channels • Posts: 795 Threads: 27 Likes Received: 242 in 203 posts Likes Given: 33 Joined: Apr 2024 Reputation: 11 28-Jun-2024, 06:36 PM (This post was last modified: 28-Jun-2024, 08:33 PM by SeismicCWave.) (28-Jun-2024, 06:19 AM)Cypeth Wrote: hey im new to fpv world, anyone knows why my smartaudio won’t work, im using speedybee f405 v3 and rush tank ultimate plus, when im using uart 1 it won’t change to TBS Smartaudio, it will always go back to MSP+Displayport, then i tried to change to uart 7, the vtx status is ready but i cant change the power, bands, and channels Hey yourself.....is that how they teach kids to talk nowadays? You have already started another thread with the exact same wording. You don't have to cross post on multiple threads. • Posts: 2,702 Threads: 83 Likes Received: 1,434 in 1,077 posts Likes Given: 857 Joined: Apr 2022 Reputation: 43 (28-Jun-2024, 06:19 AM)Cypeth Wrote: hey im new to fpv world, anyone knows why my smartaudio won’t work, im using speedybee f405 v3 and rush tank ultimate plus, when im using uart 1 it won’t change to TBS Smartaudio, it will always go back to MSP+Displayport, then i tried to change to uart 7, the vtx status is ready but i cant change the power, bands, and channels Did you wire it correctly? There is no UART 7 AFAIK or at least I can't see it on this diagram. There is an M7, but that's for Motor 7, if you were doing an octo build. I would solder to T6 and be 100% sure you are soldering the smartaudio wire and not one of the OSD ones. Then set UART 6 to TBS Smartaudio. One other thing, check all soldered joints with a jewellers loupe or omnivisor for any stray solder balls, joints where you don't want them, etc. Try Not, Do or Do Not - Yoda • |