(16-Jan-2023, 12:47 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: That Auline says it’s 80c

It’s also well over a year old and has probably been through a couple hundred charge cycles, so its performance isn’t what it used to be.

Hi Lemony,

Well now, I am betting the higher C rating is what perked up the performance. Next time 
you put in an order, you might try a 90C or better. The ones that I listed were as high as 
I could find in a small, 300-380 battery. If the 380 provides enough fly time for you, that 
might give about the best performance as it is not too heavy. 

Check the weight on that Auline 450 mAh 80C battery. A new Tattu 2S 450 mAh 95C battery
is listed as weighing 29 grams, BUT a new Tattu R-Line 2S 550 120C battery is listed at just
30 grams. Yes, the 550 is 8 grams heavier than the 380, but it has a very high 120C rating.
Between a 29 gram 450 mAh 95C and a 30 gram 550 mAh 120C battery, I might consider
the 550.

I planned my night poorly- I was having too much fun working on repairing electronics, and the next time I looked at the clock it was 9:45 p.m., and I was like crap, if I want to get a flight in tonight, I gotta do it now!

I try not to annoy my neighbors, so I try not to make noise or fly after 10 p.m. unless I'm flying 1s birds in my shop.

Anyhow, I tossed a CNHL 650mah 2s battery on this bird (battery is around 45g, not light) and let it rip.

Holy hell, man. This thing flies pretty damn good. With this battery it hovers around 35%, that's significantly higher than I prefer, but...
This bugger can still haul ass. I can toss it around like I want to. I can go zip zip zoom all around my property.

I would upload a video, but I forgot to put the sd card back in my goggles after uploading my last video. Fail.
Wednesday night I'll be doing some more flying, and I'll upload a good flight video.

This thing is flying pretty good with the batteries I have.
If I can get my hands on some lighter, high c batteries, it's only going to get better.

My first couple batteries through this bird tonight were test runs so that I can calibrate my current sensor.

I was at 165, I need to be at about 174...
but, when trying to plug in a usb cable to change that setting, I managed to dislodge my usb port.
Goddamnit.
Well, if I want to change any settings in the future, I guess I need to finally update to ELRS v3 so that I can connect via wifi, or, replace the usb port.

This board has already been featured on my hot air repair thread- I replaced the gyro on it. You'll probably see it again when I replace the damn usb port.

Anyhow, here's my third battery through it tonight. CNHL 2s 650mah. I'm still trying to get the hang of its power to weight ratio and inertia. I crashed around 2:05. You'll see me try to arm a couple times after that and see it bouncing up and down. That's what happens when your props are bent way out of whack, or, when you're missing a blade from a prop.

It's a little embarrassing, but, I never claimed to be a good pilot. If I spent even half of the time I spend building flying, I'd probably be decent- but, I love the build.
I find it really amusing that the leds from my vtx make a forward arrow when I'm on the ground.






Here's another flight video. I think it was my fourth battery through this bird tonight. It'd fly better with a smaller, lighter battery.
Fog started rolling in, which means condensation started collecting up on my lens- so it ended up being more of a flight by memory of my property.



I think I'm gonna do some camera juggling. I'm currently flying at night, and I'm not flying my 3"+ birds- but my 3"+ birds have cameras that are better in low light. I'm thinking I might switch things up and put my caddx ant nanos on my larger builds so that I can use their foxeer toothless 2's on my smaller birds that I'm currently flying.

I'd really like to try out the new Runcam Phoenix 2 Special Edition Micro. Its specs seem like it might do well in the dark.

I have found that for low light, a larger sensor in the camera makes a big difference. That is why the Toothless does so well. It has a 1/2" sensor where most all your nano cameras have a 1/3" sensor.

The "Runcam Phoenix 2 Special Edition" camera has a 1/2" sensor but is almost three times the weight (8.6 grams, 1000TVL) of the Toothless (3.1 grams 1200TVL).
Personally, the Toothlees is my goto camera period for now.
Even on small whoops the little extra weight is worth the much better image for me...

From what I am seeing, when you do the roll over the shop heading for the gap, you look to be getting too high in altitude. Maybe a little less throttle so when you finish the roll, you are not so high in the sky and can make it under the roof extension.

EDIT: Do you think a little RainX on the lens may help with the condensation?

(19-Jan-2023, 07:56 AM)brettbrandon Wrote: From what I am seeing, when you do the roll over the shop heading for the gap, you look to be getting too high in altitude. Maybe a little less throttle so when you finish the roll, you are not so high in the sky and can make it under the roof extension.

EDIT: Do you think a little RainX on the lens may help with the condensation?

You're right, I'm going way too high in altitude. Thank you. It's a lot easier for me to break down what I need to do with external input like this.

I think I'm also not rolling soon enough- I think I maybe need to cut my throttle sooner so I don't get as high, but also start my roll sooner so that I'm still on the throttle enough to give me the sideways movement needed to throw myself over the shop?

Maybe? I'd appreciate input on this as well.

I have rainX on all of my lens, and it helps a lot with proper rain- but with fog, the droplets are too small to gather up and blow off.

With my power loops, I'm definitely going way too high and not far back enough. I'm on the throttle too long while I'm going up, and I let off the throttle before I should while I'm pitching back.

This is a direct result of me flying through my neighbor's fence with my Sohei. I get straight up scared when I can't see the ground.

I don't have that excuse when I'm doing a side roll over the shop, because I can see the ground throughout the entire move. But, I still tend to go way up to give myself time to do what I need to do- and that makes it harder to line up my re-entry.

I’ll have to play in the sim version of my property some more, and see if I can find some settings that fly like this bird.

Just a quick side note-
If you're relying on your mah drawn to decide when to land, make sure that you know what size battery you strapped onto your bird.

I've been putting 650mah 2s batteries on this bird, but on my last flight I strapped on a 350mah 2s without realizing it. It was getting a little sluggish around 375mah drawn, but, I was like, I've still got another 275mah, it's just voltage sag. Send it!
Yeah, when you get under a certain voltage, the quad will just decide not to fly anymore.

At that point you've probably killed your battery.

Hi Lemony,

I have always used Battery voltage. At first, I had both the per-cell voltage and the
pack voltage, however, I just can't seem to keep track of pack voltage especially
when I use different cell count batteries. A long time ago, I removed the pack voltage
from the OSD and now only have the per-cell voltage. I do have the mAh, but that
just doesn't compute in my wee brain. I leave it on the OSD for data collection purposes
only. Now for the funny part, I generally see how far I can drain the battery before the
quad just drops from the sky. After a few packs, I know about what voltage it will die 
and try to bring the quad closer and lower. Sometimes, I actually try to land before the
battery dies. 

//WARNING: This is NOT the prescribed way to treat the batteries//

I typically use average cell voltage to know when to land, but I decided recently to calibrate the current sensor on boards that have one and try to rely more on that- it is allowing me to get more flight time out of each battery before coming in for a safe landing, but, only if I can remember which battery I put on it.

Maybe I should keep an eye on both things.

(26-Jan-2023, 06:21 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Just a quick side note-
If you're relying on your mah drawn to decide when to land, make sure that you know what size battery you strapped onto your bird.

I've been putting 650mah 2s batteries on this bird, but on my last flight I strapped on a 350mah 2s without realizing it. It was getting a little sluggish around 375mah drawn, but, I was like, I've still got another 275mah, it's just voltage sag. Send it!
Yeah, when you get under a certain voltage, the quad will just decide not to fly anymore.

At that point you've probably killed your battery.

Yeeha, don't use that gauge man it's a doozy. I've done the same thing. Just get the voltmeter to be spot on and make sure you've got average cell voltage setup in the OSD. No matter what cell count you will always know where you (or where you don't) stand, lol..

Hi Ph2t,

Yeah, spot on, Mate.   

the hulkies are terrible about durability xD

i would suggest fourblades, there is plenty of spare torq. the dalprop or even the original bullnose fourblades :-)
these motors are a bit difgicult to fly, most easy is to rush around with much throttle aslong as the voltage doesnt recover, there is some ability to handle it xD
these motors have so much power, but they are also that hungry, they are difficult to handle, 900mah 2s did provided some more linearity about power - but that awesome nimbleness is gone than. infinity 900mah graphene, heavy but good packs :-) never heard about infinity lipos again seems than

"i never claimed to be a good pilot"
did you ever tried to race, a tiny racetrack around the house? it will require a bit discipline to pickup the quad again and again, but its also the best motivation for progress. same route does allow to focus particular progress, like a more round splits to come in better in controll for the next corner... get used to more accurate throttle controll can make a huge difference for freestyle later too.
you cant go wrong by a race course, you will improve your abilities for sure :-) its just about how much you are willing to crash/fail, as much you will improve your skills - bench time might not shrink in the first time :-)

it doesnt need to be a difficult course at first, spare room is good, discipline to fly a tight line can be as good to learn at first as a tight track.


edit: i dont know if betaflight can make the motors a bit less hungry and provide better torq linearity by batterysag compensation

Yeah, I think I’ve broken more of these hulkies than I have any other prop recently. I’ll try a different prop tonight.

I have a few race gates that I’ve made, and I also have a diy lap timer that I made. I don’t set them up very often, but I definitely should.

You’re right, it’s only going to make me a better pilot. Plus, it’s fun.

Flying inside the house isn’t an option, but flying in the shop and outside the house obviously is.