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Air unit antennas direct solder
#1
Ok well now that I got the first few crashes that an air unit can take out of the way I need to now direct solder the antennas my question is should I use the stock antennas or the two Lhcp tbs triumph pros that I have ? Thnx
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#2
I guess it comes down to whether or not you've proven to yourself that the TBS Triumph antennas are better than the stock DJI antennas. Testing on the stock antennas for the Air Unit have proven them to be as good as most aftermarket antennas. It's only the antennas on the goggles that aren't as good as aftermarket ones.
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#3
Awesome answer thanks again snow
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#4
I used the stock the operation seems to be a success unfortunately I have no way of testing to see if it is as good as or better than before
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#5
If you've never tried the TBS antennas and are happy with the stock DJI ones the I would just stick with what you know works fine. I haven't seen anyone say a bad word about the stock DJI antennas for the Air Unit and if you put the Triumph's on and they aren't as good you'll be kicking yourself.
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#6
That's exactly what I was thinking that's why I asked lol
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#7
Apparently the connector that powers the air unit is pretty easy to break off too
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#8
(18-Nov-2020, 01:29 PM)joey Wrote: Apparently the  connector that powers the air unit is pretty easy to break off too

I have a solution for that..........don't crash Big Grin
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#9
Yeah 6s seems a little fast for the dji system any way
Have you heard tell of some one decasing the au sort of a naked au but of course with a heat sink
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#10
(19-Nov-2020, 02:25 AM)joey Wrote: Have you heard tell of some one decasing the au sort of a naked au but of course with a heat sink

Yes, I've seen people de-case the Air Unit and just put the circuit boards inside a 3D printed mount instead. They get hot enough with the heat sink casing on as it is, so I hate to think how hot they get with all of that removed.
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#11
(19-Nov-2020, 09:35 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Yes, I've seen people de-case the Air Unit and just put the circuit boards inside a 3D printed mount instead. They get hot enough with the heat sink casing on as it is, so I hate to think how hot they get with all of that removed.

Here's one at the link below. I've also seen 3D prints on Thingiverse to house the internals of a de-cased Air Unit.

https://rotorbuilds.com/build/22863
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#12
I've been using a Vista like this for about a month zero issues so far. No 3d print mounting just on the 20x20 stack like any board with a printed canopy holding the camera on top.

I was quite surprised pulling it apart the heat sinks are not really the best design. They're more like a domed lid with a big wad of thermal compound to bridge the gap. I've been wondering if this is actually cooling it better being open to the air and able to dissipate heat between the boards as well. I have no way to measure this though.
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