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3D Printed Toothpick
#1
So I've decided to jump on the toothpick hype-wagon. But I've always wanted to try a 3D printed frame, so this seemed to be a great way to start. Small, simple, easy to print again if it breaks.

So here we go, first some specs:
Frame: 3D Printed in PETG, model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3563189
Canopy: 3D Printed in TPU, model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3578160
Stack: iFlight SucceX F4 Whoop FC + VTX
Motors: Kingkong 1103 7800KV (1mm shaft)
Props: Kingkong 65mm 2-blade (1mm hole)
Camera: Caddx EOS2
RX: Frsky XM

Now some pictures! 
Frame printed with PETG:
[Image: stEyb5Ul.jpg]

Motors and RX:
[Image: loaJZhEl.jpg]

FC+VTX stack:
[Image: s53GFkrl.jpg]

The ESC has a standard whoop motor plugs, but I decided to solder directly, so I removed the plastic plugs and desoldered the pins. Now I can solder the motor wires directly:
[Image: UaORzT3l.jpg]

Motors and XT30 pigtail soldered (who can notice what did I do wrong here?):
[Image: pyIZbYEl.jpg]

Then I sort of forgotten to take pictures Big Grin
Now I have the camera and RX soldered, camera stuck in the canopy, motors fitted on frame (using 2 M2 screws for each):
[Image: G9e3wnfl.jpg]

And here's almost complete product. Antenna fitted in canopy, stack screwed in the frame:
[Image: a7keT2cl.jpg]

Everything is done! RX bound, Betaflight set up, ready to rock'n'roll!
[Image: xms9mgZl.jpg]
[Image: NEUUgb1l.jpg]

It's coming in quite light. 49g dry weight, 68g AUW with 300mAh 2S battery. Not baaaad.
[Image: R02hKhtl.jpg]
[Image: 8CC1A4al.jpg]



I took it for a spin yesterday. It was quite windy, but I went for it anyway. It flies like a dream! Surprisingly smooth, rather powerful (see the throttle value on the OSD). I'm running props out and default PIDs that came with the FC (not sure if those are default, gotta check later). It came on 4.0.2 from the factory.
Here's a video from the maiden:


Strangely enough, I got an RXLOSS once or twice for a split second despite the quite high RSSI. Not long enough to failsafe, but long enough for me to feel it on the sticks. I think the RX antenna is not placed very well, gotta take a look at it.

Unfortunately, the crash at the end of the video resulted in a broken frame. As expected, 3D printed frames are not very strong. And especially on my printer, I think it's not doing such a good job with PETG - the layers don't stick together so well. I'm printing a new frame at the moment, using higher temp and 10% increased flow rate, let's see if that helps.
[Image: pIqPFukl.jpg]
[-] The following 5 users Like izzy26's post:
  • Drone0fPrey, 5zero7rc, SnowLeopardFPV, hugnosed_bat, Banelle
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#2
Nice! Let us know how you get on with the printing changes.

The ground is for dead people.
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#3
Look's great!
Yeah, 3D printed frames break very easily but you can always print another one just as easy. All the work is getting the parts fitted to it again.

I've got my Mobula 7 on a 3D printed frame and It's a blast to fly Smile
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#4
https://rotorbuilds.com/build/18840 i saw this carbon sticks and print combination, probably its an option for you, i like the design alot.
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#5
Thanks guys!
I've just noticed one thing that might probably be the reason my PETG printing sucks. Even though the printer is set to 230c and it reaches the temp before the printing starts, while printing the temperature is actually only around 191c. No wonder the prints are bad. I printed the frame again and the thin parts delaminated almost instantly...

Well, it prints PLA quite well, so I'll try printing the frame with PLA next (gotta wait for it to arrive, just ran out of the current spool). The printer is bad, I'm gonna buy a new one after I move back to Czech republic in October. Probably splurge a little and go for a Prusa Big Grin
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#6
Yeah so I'm giving up on the whole 3D printed frame experience. I printed a new frame. Two batteries later:

[Image: YXEFCCzl.jpg]

Okay, it might have to do something with the fact that I tried to squeeze between two branches and sort of went head on to the tree, bounced to the other branch and to the ground... multiple times Big Grin

Anyway, I ordered a proper carbon fiber frame. Let's see how will that one hold up. I guess I'll make a new thread for that one once it arrives.
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#7
(08-Aug-2019, 05:44 PM)izzy26 Wrote: Anyway, I ordered a proper carbon fiber frame. Let's see how will that one hold up. I guess I'll make a new thread for that one once it arrives.

Ooh, let us know how you get on. I'm thinking a micro is going to be my next build and was looking at that frame as well!

The ground is for dead people.
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#8
The completed quad looks really cool; like the color combination. I believe you have found the frame's weak point. Either beef up that area or  you could try a different frame design; more like a standard "X". I am considering a similar project so I am taking notes on your build. 

Also, try different filaments. Check out Fillamentum filaments.
Thanks
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#9
(10-Jul-2019, 12:43 PM)izzy26 Wrote: Thanks guys!
I've just noticed one thing that might probably be the reason my PETG printing sucks. Even though the printer is set to 230c and it reaches the temp before the printing starts, while printing the temperature is actually only around 191c. No wonder the prints are bad. I printed the frame again and the thin parts delaminated almost instantly...

Well, it prints PLA quite well, so I'll try printing the frame with PLA next (gotta wait for it to arrive, just ran out of the current spool). The printer is bad, I'm gonna buy a new one after I move back to Czech republic in October. Probably splurge a little and go for a Prusa Big Grin

In your slicer there should be a setting to set the minimum temperature before printing starts, it's a bit stupid it doesn't default to the print temperature, I use cura and you have to go to the "expert" settings or something to see the setting, and for me it usually defaults to 190 or 200 when I'm trying to print 220 (for PLA tho not PETG)
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#10
i beleive „nylon-filament“ could work well... but it will go more expensive than a decent carbonframe.

a standart „x“ frame should be worse for printing, daves frame is very toughtfull about vibrations and rigidity...
[-] The following 1 user Likes hugnosed_bat's post:
  • Drone0fPrey
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#11
I've been flying a 3d printed toothpick frame of my own design in PETG for some time now, holds up to crashes pretty well. I've also had the frame you just bought and it's rather weak. It has some long slots cut out of the bottom and that is a real weak point. My broke after just a few decent crashes, taped it up and flew some more but after a few more crashes all the arms were broken. I'd recommend going with either premium carbon frames like the original toothpick https://fpvcycle.com/collections/frames/...-thickness

or keep on printing and get your petg printing sorted out. I'll be experimenting with this stuff https://ninjatek.com/armadillo/ soon. Have great hopes for it. I'll share my toothpick designs soon on thingiverse, getting close to being completely happy with my frame design.

I really dig that blocky canopy design btw.
[-] The following 1 user Likes Flickeryvision's post:
  • Drone0fPrey
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