(09-Apr-2016, 07:07 PM)Trollhammered Wrote: Well after all the fun I had figuring out my screws/motor windings problem I've got into tuning mode. The damn thing got stuck in a reboot cycle after putting it back to a 500 looptime (changed it during the troubleshooting). Now it won't connect to the configurator. It powers up, LEDs light up, the port it's on shows up and connects. Plug the other V2 in and it's just fine. So I've tryed to reflash but won't connect to bootloader on first click but will on second click and flashes. How ever it still won't connect to configurator. I've now swapped back to the other V2 and the quad is back and ready to tune when the rain goes away. Funny thing, now that it's out I can flash it on the first try every time... but still won't connect to configurator.

Update:
HA! the stories not over. This other V2 I've put back in as now reminded me of another issue I originally had but never mentioned. when I plug in the USB it acts like a battery has been plugged in. Low voltage alarm goes off. I've set it to 1 so I don't have to hear it. The voltage scaling is at default 110 which was correct for the other V2. Without the battery it's reading 1.5V and with it'll read anywhere from 1.5 to 10V. When unplugging it'll shoot up to as high as 10V then settle back down to 1.5V. Looks I'm going to have to set this up just like my V1 with a voltage divider straight into the Frsky smart port.

Another update:
Arg! BLHeli passthrough still won't read set up with this board. No error just comes back with the list of ESC and --- next to them. In Betaflight motor tab calibrating doesn't get past the initial plug in battery faze. Lowering master slider does nothing. Actually motor tab sliders won't control the motors at all.
Good news is that I've yet to lose my buzzer pads with all the soldering and desoldering. (insert thumbs up emoji)

Last update:
After walking away for a few hours I remembered that when I had forgotten to reconnect the 5V feeding the FC BLHeli worked. This time isn't nay different. Motors tab calibrated ESC fine and BLHeli read setup. Turned vbat back on and it works too.

I love your detail update hehe
sounds like you need to start a blog... LOL
actually would you be interested to start a blog? I can create a blog site for you maybe a few other active individuals in our group / forum... 
something like  blog.intofpv.com/Trollhammered/
what do you think hehe

(10-Apr-2016, 02:05 AM)Oscar Wrote: I love your detail update hehe
sounds like you need to start a blog... LOL
actually would you be interested to start a blog? I can create a blog site for you maybe a few other active individuals in our group / forum... 
something like  blog.intofpv.com/Trollhammered/
what do you think hehe

Yeah... I did get a bit winded there sorry... three reasons.
1: Hopping someone with more experience would chime and say "you stupid noob, you did set the everything's going to work switch to match the you have know idea what your doing rating". 2: If you haven't already I was going to link this thread to the email I send FPVModel. And 3: It's raining, there was suposed to be a practice race today and I'm bord out of my mind

(10-Apr-2016, 02:05 AM)Oscar Wrote: I love your detail update hehe
sounds like you need to start a blog... LOL
actually would you be interested to start a blog? I can create a blog site for you maybe a few other active individuals in our group / forum... 
something like  blog.intofpv.com/Trollhammered/
what do you think hehe

+1 on the blog idea! 

Yeah, passthrough works. Just be sure to use the correct BLHeli version This was my problem yesterday. But after using the latest version yesterday, it worked without any problem.

Of the two V2 boards I I've only one of them was giving me trouble with BLHeli. It would work if I'd disconnect the 5v going into the FC and only powered from USB. The other board bricked while saving configuration. Pretty sure there's something wrong with the USB on both

Question on connecting PPM. Do I need to use UART1 or can I use UART2? Just wonder what the difference is and which I need to use to connect my D4Rii.

(30-Apr-2016, 10:36 PM)Rook Wrote: Question on connecting PPM.  Do I need to use UART1 or can I use UART2?  Just wonder what the difference is and which I need to use to connect my D4Rii.

no PPM should connect to CH1

(01-May-2016, 12:24 AM)Oscar Wrote: no PPM should connect to CH1

Thank you my good man

I have the V2 and X4RSB and I'm trying to get telemetry, OSD and SBUS working together without having to unplug whatever is on UART1 to connect to CF because I'm going to have all the electronics packed inside a spacer with just a small hole for USB cable.

What would be the smart way to connect all this?

SBUS has a dedicated UART3 on this board which is also powered up from USB 5V when connected so I guess it has to be there.

I've tried hooking up the yellow cable from X4RSB (Smart port) to TX & RX on UART1 but then I couldn't connect to CF until I've disconnected it.
Is it because X4RSB is powered from USB 5V so the Smart port takes over the UART1?

At the moment I have OSD hooked up to UART2 which works just fine. Should I move it to UART1 instead? I'm thinking that if I don't connect the battery
then OSD won't power up and the USB might still work? If it does then I could simply run telemetry on UART2 which is not shared with USB.
Of course I'd have to hook the OSD after calibrating the ESCs as I'd not be able to have USB and Battery connected at the same time...
Have anyone set it up that way?

Or should I run telemetry on SoftSerial (like on Naze32) but I can't find which pins are used for SoftSerial in X-Racer F303 Manual. Does anyone know?
SmartPort telemetry runs on a higher baud rate than recommended for SoftSerial though so it will tax the CPU a bit..will I still be able to run 4k refresh rate on the FC ( or 3.8k as Oscar recommends in his recent article) ?

Does anyone have the newest V2.1 version yet? I am wondering if some of these issues mentioned with V2 have been worked out.

(17-May-2016, 02:37 PM)mts49 Wrote: Does anyone have the newest V2.1 version yet? I am wondering if some of these issues mentioned with V2 have been worked out.

The changes are that there are no more solder pads only holes. Vbat and rssi have been placed where DSM used to be. Oh and of coarse the labeling error was corrected. They also went back to a gloss finish. My only issue I've been having is do to landing in wet grass... Not their fault. These are great FCs

(17-May-2016, 03:35 PM)Trollhammered Wrote: The changes are that there are no more solder pads only holes. Vbat and rssi have been placed where DSM used to be. Oh and of coarse the labeling error was corrected. They also went back to a gloss finish. My only issue I've been having is do to landing in wet grass... Not their fault. These are great FCs

PlastiDip advised :-)

(17-May-2016, 03:35 PM)Trollhammered Wrote: The changes are that there are no more solder pads only holes. Vbat and rssi have been placed where DSM used to be. Oh and of coarse the labeling error was corrected. They also went back to a gloss finish. My only issue I've been having is do to landing in wet grass... Not their fault. These are great FCs

Excellent, thanks for the info.  As far as I can tell, this is a better option than the Naze Rev6C (for many reasons) and for the same price.

This will be my first F3 FCB.  Gonna be using it on a Tweaker using a D4R-II on PPM.

Can the F3 FCB run in horizon mode for easy landing?

(25-May-2016, 02:16 PM)LannyT2 Wrote: Can the F3 FCB run in horizon mode for easy landing?

Of course... But if your already flying acro I'd think that switching to horizon to land is a crutch. Not criticising just trying to be encouraging