If your not  familiar with my Tinyhawk stuff.. quick backstory.  My wife is a middle school  science teacher and uses Tinyhawks in her classroom.  So that means Im the dedicated Tinyhawk repair man....
  As much as I love the TH RTF kits, the EZ pilot Pro being the best.. they still have shortcomings that I do not care for...
First off, with these little whoops your locked into the EMax eco-system. Meaning you can only use TH props (short shaft so others wont work well), and they can only be used as "pusher".  You can flip the motors and the whoop will fly, but not very good the prop profile is for a pusher style.  The Flight controller is also not the greatest, they dont hold up well, the VTX and Rx is intergraded, hard to get, and EXPENSIVE... you may as well buy another Tinyhawk.  Then your stuck with a set of motors with nothing to do with them... 
  Some have used a 3d printed "adapter" to use a standard whoop board..motor wire length, USB location can be difficult to work around.  I have used one on my TH Freestyle, I fly it in 3s and its a blast...thats another thread.  I am here to save dead Tinyhawks that have been pushed to the side...
   The frame can be decent, but it positions the motors very low, this is not good with even the softest landings because the props hit the ground FIRST, causing them to crack, then fly off.  yes you can glue them but why....
  So here is my "solution" to tiny hawk problems....
First, if your FC is toast, like i said you are limited, with that frame...unless you change it.  Yeah, I know I said the motors are "pusher" design with the props... so what i did was flip a whoop frame.  Namely the Beta75X Frame V1 and V2(the v2 is for 2s).  Both are very robust frames, they accept the TH motors and a whoop fc.  The best part is the motors sit "higher" in the frame, eliminating hard hits to the props and motors.  I have found the props my contact the sides, this is easily fixed with heat. Just heat the side motor mount arms as u push the base.  
  Next is the FC, I found the Happy model Diamond F4 1s AIO to fit well, access to the usb, it has a very good vtx and its reasonable...Yes, it does come with a SPI D8 RX but (I havnt gon ELRS yet)...
  Finally the camera, you will need to either swap wires or a plug, i designed a camera mount for the older TH cameras.  but if u have a TH II it mounts no problem...
I’m sending one with her, and see how well it holds up..
I’m using rubber bands for the battery as I am working on a bottom plate to protect the fc and allow different size 1s lipos from 300-650..

That is a creative use of the battery holder. I dig it. I just might have to use some shelf bits to make a little pusher whoop.

Took it out today.. what a little ripper!!! Flies on rails, and for 1s I am impressed with the speed…
And this one is no exception, it eats concrete also.. at full speed.. gotta say.. the props POPPED off due to impact but they are NOT CRACKED OR BROKEN.. the frame and camera is another story..
but HOLY SMOKES.. I can only say good things about this setup… so if u have a dead Tinyhawk, give this a shot… you WONT be disappointed… and yes, I flew a new ez pilot pro Th after this.. it did fly good.. but for some reason.. not the same..

That is an awesome looking alternative. I have a TH2 that has grown on me. My first impression was that it was a fragile quad because on my second pack I believe one of the ESC died. I returned the FC only got a store credit and bought a new TH2 so I have a spare TH minus the FC. I was very careful and hesitate to fly the other one I bought at first but as it turn out, it's quite durable I crashed full speed into a wall which coming around corner, one prop flew off (and those props are not easy to come off) I swore it was dead. Put prop back on and was in the air again.
After a couple of months flying it, I installed bluejay and gained almost a min flight time. I did mess up the PID tune and was getting massive oscillation so much so that I lost two camera screws, that has since been resolved.
My issue now is that my motors stutter, sometimes it's one at the front sometimes it the two front, sometimes it's three. When I disarm and push on the connectors and rearm, that seems to work sometimes till I land and change batteries then I have to repeat the process all over again. It's so frustrating that I just reach for another quad most of the time
Any suggestions on fixing this
Rob I hope you don't mind me saying, I've been reading alot of your post and your like the TH guru LoL

With ALL the THs I’ve dealt with .. one of the biggest failure points is the motor plugs.. I used to fight them myself.. the fix can be a little difficult if ur solder skills arnt up to par… but soldering the motor wires directly to the pads will eliminate ur problem..
If ur lucky the new FCs have motor pads on the top and bottom of the fc making it A LOT easier
I’m still new to this hobby, and have a lot to learn.. you can call me TH Guru.. “you can call me Susan if it makes u happy… -Bullit tooth Tony-

(08-Sep-2022, 03:42 PM)Rob Axel Wrote: With ALL the THs I’ve dealt with .. one of the biggest failure points is the motor plugs.. I used to fight them myself.. the fix can be a little difficult if ur solder skills arnt up to par… but soldering the motor wires directly to the pads will eliminate ur problem..
If ur lucky the new FCs have motor pads on the top and bottom of the fc making it A LOT easier
I’m still new to this hobby, and have a lot to learn.. you can call me TH Guru.. “you can call me Susan if it makes u happy… -Bullit tooth Tony-

LoL. I could try soldering the motors directly as I did pack my soldering iron. Coming to think of it I can't remember pack a battery to power it. The only 2s battery I have is a 450mah. Would I be able to use that battery or can I power it from my charger (ISDT Q6) my solder iron is the Sequre SQ-001

… I have no idea…but I will say, if /when u do attempt this.. have good flux, good solder, and a proper size tip..
Also a jewelers loupe will let u inspect ur work better when ur done

Ok thank you. I do have good solder and flux, I'm not sure about the tip as I have never opened that soldering iron since I got it. I do have a set of magnifying glass that has interchangeable lenses, so when I get some time I'll see how it goes. Thanks again

Easiest frame swap ever.. no need to desolder the motors.. they WILL fit with a little frame persuasion.. just don’t muscle Eff it!.. only “issue”was the camera.. plug fit but two wires needed swapping ..
This AIO is pretty impressive .. this thing took a header into concrete.. motors are fine also..
Also… since the motors fit through the frame.. soldering them to the fc will be a lot easier..

I managed to successfully direct solder the motors to the FC. It wasn't the easiest of tasks but I'd say it went well. Only flew 2 packs so far and the motors were quite responsive. Just need to solder the LED strips back on and I'm done.

GOOD TO HEAR!!

Thank you