Bits:

Frame- RDQ Source One V3
Stan FPV 5” (4” prop) ducts
Motors- iFlight Xing 2207.5 2555kv
Stack- erm, I don’t actually know. I cannibalized it from my Tyro119. Some sort of F4 FC with a 40 amp 4in1 ESC and maybe a 400mw vtx?
Cam- Runcam Nano 2
Some random vtx antenna 
TinyLED Sidefire race wire
ELRS EP1 rx

As you can tell, this was a super well thought out build.
Basically, I saw a super cheap frame and thought, “What do I have/need/want to make this happen?”

Motors are a 6 pack that I got a deal on used. Stack I already had. Stan FPV ducts- I bought them while I was still convinced that I needed prop guards on everything because of my lack of flying skills. I don’t know how long they’ll stay on.

It wasn’t intentional, but because of the colors I grabbed to hydro dip this frame, apparently it’s gonna be a Christmas themed build. I kinda feel like I should order a tiny little Santa hat and beard to mount above and below the camera.

I ended up with a lot of visible brush marks and micro bubbles on the frame this time. The bubbles weren’t there after I dipped the frame, and the top coat is supposed to be self leveling- but both of those issues are clearly from the top coat. I think it was a humidity issue- I live in the PNW and it’s been wet and rainy and stormy lately.

More to come.

This frame is my daily basher.. takes all kinds of abuse!! I shaved the side camera plates and took 5mm from the stance..love this frame..
Let us know how those ducts work out and with 4” props… I’ve got a feeling they won’t be on there long and a set of 5” props replace them ..

I have a SourceOne as a basher as well. Touch wood it’s holding strong.

Ducts will help save bumping into stuff but the frame itself doesn’t need it. You will destroy the ducts much before you can even come close to damaging the frame.

The frame certainly looks like it can take a bashing.

I’ll probably be sticking with 3s or 4s, I think the motors might be too high kv to handle more than 4s?

What battery size/capacity/weight are you all running on yours, and on what motors?

(02-Oct-2021, 08:07 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: I’ll probably be sticking with 3s or 4s, I think the motors might be too high kv to handle more than 4s?

Yes, 2555KV is designed for 4S. If you use 6S you will burn out the motors. You can of course use motor scaling to allow you to use 6S LiPos with high KV motors but it can be hit and miss. It is better to just use the correct LiPo cell count that the motors are designed for.

That’s what I thought- thanks for confirming that, Snow.

I built it and ran 4s untill recently.. been flying 6s with simple motor scaling

It’s been less stormy and not windy so I’ve been spending most of my free time flying, but I’m making slow progress on this build.

The next step is to figure out how things connect to the flight controller. I can’t seem to find a proper pin out for it, but, there’s plenty of build videos for the Tyro119, so I should be able to figure out what to connect to where. It’s labeled pretty well as well, so that will help.

I made progress, and it’s built- but not really.

I’m gonna hafta dust off my 3d printer on Monday and print a camera adapter and a vtx antenna mount. I don’t really have any need for gps, but I’ll prolly print one of the vtx antenna mounts that include a gps holder, because I have one and the board supports it, so why not.

The attached pictures of my progress are a dry run- if I breathe on it the camera jiggles. I’ll be printing bits before I fly it, but in the meantime, everything is wired up, so that’s exciting.

Build looks good. Lots of room for components.

That frame was designed for a Full size camera and perhaps a Mini camera with an adapter but its seems you have a Nano camera with a Micro adapter plate.

Lots of SourceOne parts of thingiverse.

Made a bit more progress, it’s almost ready to fly.
I dusted off my 3d printer and made a vtx antenna mount and a camera adapter.

I was a bit concerned because Ultimaker Cura decided that it would be totally cool if it deleted all of the profiles that I spent months adjusting for all of my filaments. So I had to start over and go off of memory for what worked for what I have in the environment that I live in.

I was also concerned because all of my filament is a year plus old- it’s all been stored in airtight bags with silica gel, but this is the Pacific Northwest, so it’s super humid. Also, none of my build plates are even remotely level.

But, they actually turned out well. I printed in PLA because when I print in tpu it fails 9/10th of the time.

If you look at that picture of the back of the vtx antenna holder- see that nice little curve on the bottom? That wasn’t intentional, that’s because my build plate is warped.

I really didn’t like how the StanFPV prop guards sat below the arms. That gap bothered me. I need some tpu motor spacers, but, see above. So… I worked with what I have and cut some spacers out of silicone battery pads.

Next steps are setting up modes in betaflight, and making sure that motor directions are correct in BLHeli, and then I should maybe be able to fly.

Interested to know how the SourceOne will fly with ducts. Or any other 5".

I owned V2 and V3 man what a beast.

I honestly don’t see any benefits to “ducts” on large quads unless it’s a cinalifter being used for filming low and around people…I believe they were originally designed for quad camera stabilization.. but with all this now being done in “post production” .. they are pretty much just thick prop guards If the props don’t have minimal clearance.

I bought these ducts right before I finally stopped being afraid of crashing into my head/etc.

I’m going to try them out because I already paid for them- but I don’t know how long they’ll stay on. As far as benefits go, there’s safety and also they are supposed to reduce noise by directing it up and down rather than all over the place.

I’m pretty sure it’s just going to be a whole bunch of extra weight that will significantly lower my flight time- but we’ll see. I’ve been wrong many many times before.