At the beginning I have to say, that this will be my first drone. I would be thankfull for some opinions/ improvements of my part list.
I want to fly with the dji o3 air unit to use it as gopro replcement. As a controller, I already own a Radiomaster Boxer with built-in ELRS module.

Part list:

• Frame: GEPRC Mark5 Deadcat O3 MK5D
  
• FC/ESC: SpeedyBee F405 V3 BLS 50A 30x30 FC&ESC Stack
  
• Motor: iFlight Xing2 2306 1755KV 6S
  
• Props: Gemfan Hurricane 51477
  
• FPV-Setup: DJI o3 air unit
  
• Reciever: iFlight ELRS 2.4GHz
  
• GPS: HGLRC M100 Mini GPS
  
• Buzzer: VIFLY Finder 2
  

Thank you for your help!

.. parts list looks fine… my question is.. you have spent lots of your hard earned money on these components.. there is ONE (maybe 2) thing(s) you forgot…
A decent soldering iron and a practice solder board.. There is nothing more frustrating, and can make someone loose interest faster than building something.. adding power and watch “magic smoke” rise …
… “Hey, how do you get to Carnegie Hall from here??”
“Practice, Practice, practice ..”

Parts list looks fine, looks like you did some good research while picking them out.

The only thing I might suggest changing is the iFlight ELRS receiver. Personally, I’d probably go with a Radiomaster or Happymodel ELRS receiver. IFlight haven’t always been known for the quality of their electronics, but, that may have changed. Their Xing motors are great.

As Rob said, there are a number of additional things needed beyond the main parts you have listed- tools, batteries, charger, miscellaneous screws/bolts, etc. if you let us know what you currently have, we can make some recommendations on other things that you need.

If this is going to be your first drone, it’s going to be a bit of a beast. I’d strongly suggest starting with something smaller while you get the hang of flying, both for safety reasons, as well as cost.

I want to thank you all for your help. 

I already own all of the standard tools (soldering iron, screw drivers,...). And I think i am decent with it. (I built some steering wheels for sim-racing and other parts with small electronic compentents)

As battery I would go for some CNHL black 1300 or 1500mAh Lipos.
Currently I have the Skyrc D200 neo charger on my list. 

You mentioned that the drone will be pretty powerful. Is it possible to decrease the power in betaflight too? Or is this a bad idea? 
In the future I also planned (if I use the drone enough) to buy a cinewhoop. Do you think it makes more sense to buy it first?

I want to use the drones for my side job as photographer.

Also, I have already spent around 30 hours in liftoff and velocidrone.

(16-Jun-2023, 11:06 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Parts list looks fine, looks like you did some good research while picking them out.

The only thing I might suggest changing is the iFlight ELRS receiver. Personally, I’d probably go with a Radiomaster or Happymodel ELRS receiver. IFlight haven’t always been known for the quality of their electronics, but, that may have changed. Their Xing motors are great.

As Rob said, there are a number of additional things needed beyond the main parts you have listed- tools, batteries, charger, miscellaneous screws/bolts, etc. if you let us know what you currently have, we can make some recommendations on other things that you need.

If this is going to be your first drone, it’s going to be a bit of a beast. I’d strongly suggest starting with something smaller while you get the hang of flying, both for safety reasons, as well as cost.

Those are fine parts indeed ) I have one iFlight receiver, I haven't use it in a build yet, but it looks very well made!

As Audex said, it’s more about the size and weight of it.

I crashed through my neighbor’s vinyl fence with a 3” quad, and this was after it bounced off the ground first.

Ph2t flew through the back window of some poor fellow’s van, with what I think was a 5” if I’m remembering correctly.

Even with that sim time, you will at some point lose control, especially in the beginning. That may be from lack of experience, pilot error, or equipment failure. Hell, I’ve been flying for 2+ years and I still regularly crash.

If you figure the average all up weight (weight of quad plus battery) of a 5” quad is 500g to 600g, that’s over a pound hurtling through the air, with momentum behind it. If you want to get an idea of how much damage that can do, find a rock that weighs a bit over a pound and throw it at something inanimate as hard as you can.

That said, if you have a safe place to fly, away from anyone or anything you can injure or damage, you can learn to fly on a 5”.

Given that your end goal is to use it in your job as a photographer, it would probably make more sense to start with a cinewhoop, maybe in the 2.5” to 3” size. It won’t be as capable of freestyle moves as an open prop quad, but, it will be a bit more stable and new pilot friendly.

Personally, I’d suggest starting with a tiny whoop, like the mobula6 or mobula7 mentioned above. Those can be flown indoors where you won’t potentially lose it in a flyaway in the beginning- then try out a 2.5” or 3” cinewhoop, and then move on to a 5” as you gain flight experience.

The downside I see is that, I would need another pair of googles for all the tiny whoops, right?

Because i'm pretty sure that I want to buy the dji googles 2. 
Do you have any suggestions for cheap goggles to fly with tiny whoops? 

I have seen some with elrs but not with a dji compatible camera.

You can get a BDI digidapter and a cheap video receiver module to receive analog video signals through dji goggles.

Or get one of these.

https://betafpv.com/collections/betafpv-...1490491526

They aren't really designed for flying in the house, but would be fine outdoors and still a good size to learn on. If not, you can get many vista based cinewhoops of a similar size from the various fpv companies.

(17-Jun-2023, 09:08 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: You can get a BDI digidapter and a cheap video receiver module to receive analog video signals through dji goggles.

Not with the DJI Goggles 2 (or DJI Goggles Integra either) unfortunately as they have no AV input capabilities. You can only use an analogue module on the older DJI FPV Goggles V1 or V2.

@OP - The DJI VTX's are really too heavy for tiny whoops. The closest you will get is the iFlight A75 but I wouldn't really call it a whoop. It's heavy and doesn't handle like a nimble analogue whoop does and flight times are poor. There is also the GEPRC Thinking P16 but the same appies to that as well.

The best cheapest analogue goggles are probably the Eachine EV800D, but they are box goggles which some people don't like.

(18-Jun-2023, 02:59 AM)Audax Wrote: Whatever you do, my advice is to avoid betafpv products. They are terribly inconsistent.

I don't disagree with that, but not all BetaFPV are bad. 

I have over 30 BetaFPV parts (FC, VTX, ELRS), goggles, radios and quads with zero failures, but then others have had 80-90% failure rate.  Seems like some stuff is defective and I somehow got all the good stuff that won't fail.  But then all of mine came from one UK shop and I have never had any issue with any product I got from them (BetaFPV or other).  Go figure.

The VR02 and VR03 goggles are sweet.  They have some limitations.  but they essentially do what they state.  i get about 1-1.5 hours of power if I'm using the DVR on the VR03.  They state 2 hours.  The VR02 has patch antenna, but they aren't terrible for a $50 set of goggles.  The image quality on both is very nice.

Everyone slags the Literadio 2 off because the ELRS is only version 2, but they work really well for what they are.  The bonus is they cost $40.  Find me another ELRS radio for $40.  For learning to fly on, they are great and simple to use.  Set bind phrase on BetaFPV configurator, set packet rate, telem, etc, make sure they are upgraded to 2.0.1, make sure the quad is running 2.5 and that's it.  Power up radio and quad and they just work.

Saying that, most of the failures on BetaFPV quads seems to be by people abusing turtle mode and blowing escs.  When i came on here last year everyone said don't use turtle mode.  Walk over pick it up, turn it over, the manual way.  it wasn't until I had been flying over 9 months that I started to use turtle.  I have broken props using turtle, but not blown any escs.  My Meteor85 still flies well, my Meteor75 still flies well.  I have VR03 and VR02 goggles and both are fine for what i use them for.  The FC all still work fine.  So who knows.

TUTORIAL  How to Solder - Principles, Technics, Etc. ( 1 2 )

(18-Jun-2023, 05:39 PM)Audax Wrote: Like everything it's a tradeoff...they're cheap and the QC is bad. Some of what they ship is good and some of it should never have been shipped. If someone is on a budget and they want to take a chance go for it, but I'd certainly avoid them for anything other than some little whoop you wouldn't mind breaking/malfunctioning/losing.

To be fair you can get say a HAKRC 20A AIO now for the same price as the BetaFPV 12A AIO, so it's no longer such a big thing when going for budget components. Or a Darwin 15A for the same price.

I use mine in stuff up to 2.5". Beyond that it's stacks and single components all the way.

For what you get I've never had cause to complain. Built a few things now with the 12A and 5A AIO FC, all still flying after 6 months, including the one I gave my nephew who is slamming it into walls pretty much constantly and the only issue so far is one wire on the BT2.0 connector snapped.

You know, I use the 25.5x25.5 diagonally oriented, whoop mounting format, for
pretty much anything. All of my 4 and 5-inch builds have a whoop format board
in them. I even have a "sort of" whoop board for my 7-inch Rescue Quad. As long
as the AMP rating is high enough for the motor current draw, it has always worked
for me. The only thing that I can tell different with a stack is the mounting pattern
and where things solder up; some do have bigger pads, but some don't.

I will also say, I have NOT had any issues with any BetaFPV product that I have
ever purchased and used. There whoop FC boards seem to work fine. So far, I have
not gotten a bad one. Also, my Meteor 65S is still going strong. I also have NOT
had any issues with the iFlight products that I have purchased. 

I will also say that all of the GEPRC products that I have purchased have been
first rate and I have had NO issues or problems with them. I have purchased
two GEPRC Phantoms and a lot of other stuff. 

On the other hand, I have had Flywoo and JHEMCU boards that were faulty.
Will I buy from either of these brands in the future. Probably.