Morning guys,

Noob here, I just purchased a tinyhawk 2 freestyle kit. I also just bought a radiomaster boxer elrs. I was wondering what would be easier to do in order to connect the boxer to the tinyhawk so I can get used to that transmitter so whenever I upgrade drones it'll be easier for me. Is there an external module I can purchase? Or should I buy an elrs receiver? Please help.

Return the boxer and get a 4-in-1 version. If you need ELRS down the line, buy an external module.

Or, buy a Radiomaster T8 Lite to use with the Tinyhawk. Possibly cheaper and gives you more options. You get to keep the boxer for better quads in the future.

https://www.getfpv.com/radiomaster-t8-li...itter.html

The future is ELRS, but many smaller quads still come with FrSky. I use two radios for this reason. A T8 Lite for anything FrSky and a Jumper T-Pro for ELRS. Or you can integrate. The downside to integration for me is if it breaks, you are grounded until you fix it or replace. If you have two radios and one breaks, you still have another radio. But the choice is up to the individual.

Do not return the boxer..just order a ELRS RX or the external 4-1 module for the controller. I say this for several reasons…
1- as much as I love the Tinyhawk platform.. you will kill that AIO without even trying.. replacements are $100+, but there are newer / better cheaper options.
2-D8/16 (Frsky)protocol doesn’t have the support like ELRS or crossfire.. not saying it’s “bad”, to me it’s like a 70s v8, low performance ..compared to newer /better development.
3-you WILL acquire more quads.. and most likely ELRS or crossfire will be installed (bnf). IF U do choose your own rx and go with Frsky .. your gonna have to deal with the accst / access soup sandwich
I wish RDQ had saved their forum.. I had A SH*T load of info and any Tinyhawk build, repair, upgrade
I still fly my THFREAKSTYLE..on 3s, crossfire, and HDzero.. it is one of my favorites!

If the boxer feels comfortable in your hands, I would keep it.
4-in-1 module is nice to have the extra compatibility, but unless you are looking to buy some used/older or toy drones, most newer BNFs come with an ELRS option. If you are comfortable soldering, get an ELRS RX for your EMAX drone.

Have yall heard of this SoloGood ELRS 2.4G Receiver ExpressLRS? I just ordered one on Amazon.

No, but honestly, for my high end rigs with digital systems… I’ll stick with a reputable, established manufacture..I’ve had to many failsafes with “semi-good” stuff (Frsky) .. hence me going Crossfire..I will eventually tag into ELRS, that is where the market is going, price, availably, open source..if TBS didn’t price their RXs so don’t high and made one for tinywhoops..I wouldn’t even think about ELRS

Thanks for the input gentlemen, I just got my boxer setup last night. Tried out the sim for a couple hours. I'll prob just continue to practice since it's been super windy down here in south texas. Try to wire up the rx this weekend and see what I can mess up. Lol

Guys I just installed an elrs receiver on the drone. Binded it with the radiomaster boxer I bought. Seems to work fine. I did notice that the flight controller/board are getting super hot to the touch. I don't know if it's always gotten hot and I just didn't notice or what. Any Ideas?

I think the Tinhawk has two boards, the AIO and a VTX board. The AIO does get hot when plugged in, but it should not be super hot to the touch. The VTX board however may get pretty toasty especially if it is powered above 25mw. If the VTX powers up when you plug in the USB, then you may consider running a fan on it while doing bench setup. But if your AIO gets superhot powered by USB with the VTX off, then that does not sound normal.

Yeah, after sitting and thinking about it. I had it plugged into betaflight for like 5-10 mins. Flys like a champ though. Now I just need to find a big open space to fly in. I've been messing around with the simulator on my computer.

When at 25mW I have left a couple of my builds on the desk for 20+ mins without any cooling and without issue. But I have the VTX set to use low power when disarmed (always / on). The cpu temp is based on load, so if you aren't doing anything it shouldn't really get that warm.