Greetings again to everybody!
As I told you I am totally noob on FPV so if I say anything non-relevant just...shoot me!
Thank you in advance!
Just a few words for my drone:

Frame : TBS QQ190RTF
FC : Colibri Flight Control board
ESC : TBS 2 ESC boards
Motors : T-MOTORS MN2205 - 2400KV
FPV Cam : TBS CMOS FPV camera 
VTX : TBS TRIUMPH FPV antenna
Props : CYCLONE T5040C
Tx/RX : Taranis QX 7 + R9M + R9 Slim + !!!


FC FIRMWARE : COLIBRI 3.5.5

Facts:

1. I have checked a couple of videos on youtube but not on the specific frame so I want to be as sure as possible, since I already burnt an Rx.
2. I have not write firmware again either on Rx or Tx (a friend of mine did it for R9mm but i cannot deal with potential contingencies that will arise with R9 slim+).
3. I have an SD card on Taranis.
4. I have downloaded from frSky:

2019-02-13 190201
Fix the incorrect telemetry issue
 1.15MB
DOWNLOAD

2018-12-30 181228 
(F.Port FW included) 1. Fix the random incorrect RSSI issue 2. Optimize the performance and further increase the stability
Note: Please upgrade the compatible device (R9 series Tx/Rx) with the latest firmware simultaneously, and rebind the devices after the update.
1.14MB

DOWNLOAD
2018-05-07 180425
Only firmware update for EU LBT mode

• Add 16 channels with telemetry (25mW) and 16 channels without telemetry (200mW) modes
  

Note：Please update radios(openTx v2.2.2  FrOS v1.2.05/v1.5.05 )/RF modules(R9M-LBT-180428) / R9 receivers (R9 / R9SLIM/R9SLIM+ -LBT-180425 )at the same time to the latest or later version to get the new function or it will not work properly.
108KB

DOWNLOAD
2018-03-30 180329

• Change the 1W gear to the power adpation gear（100mW~1W） in Non-EU mode.
  
• Improve the performance and change the RSSI algorithm.
  

94KB

DOWNLOAD
2018-02-07 180202

• Fix the bug of “Telemetry Lost” false alarm.
  
• Modify the PWM output period and improve the compatibility with servos.
  

199KB
DOWNLOAD
2018-01-24 180124

• Optimize the performance.
  

197KB


I would kindly ask to help me in bullets how to (correct me if my pacing is wrong):
1. Wire it correctly (flash).
2. Write the firmware (FCC).
3. Bind the receiver to taranis.
4. Setup up Taranis page on my qq190 model
5. Setup in betaflight if needed


*below i provide you 2 pics of my wiring attempt

 

OK, I'll get you started.

First download the latest version of the R9 Slim+ FLEX firmware (2019-02-13 / 190201) from the following link...

https://www.frsky-rc.com/wp-content/uplo...190201.zip

You were using SBUS connection without SmartPort telemetry on your previous R9MM installation (HERE), so I'm going to assume you just want to keep things the same with the R9 Slim+ installation which will be the simplest option to start off with because it won't require any rewiring or Betaflight configuration changes. For this you will need to flash the R9Slim_FLEX.frk firmware file from the downloaded ZIP file.

Then follow the instructions in the video below. If you don't speak Italian then just turn on subtitles.

(22-Jun-2019, 09:42 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: OK, I'll get you started.

First download the latest version of the R9 Slim+ FLEX firmware (2019-02-13 / 190201) from the following link...

https://www.frsky-rc.com/wp-content/uplo...190201.zip

You were using SBUS connection without SmartPort telemetry on your previous R9MM installation (HERE), so I'm going to assume you just want to keep things the same with the R9 Slim+ installation which will be the simplest option to start off with because it won't require any rewiring or Betaflight configuration changes. For this you will need to flash the R9Slim_FLEX.frk firmware file from the downloaded ZIP file.

Then follow the instructions in the video below. If you don't speak Italian then just turn on subtitles.

Wilco Snowleopard!!!
I will let you know tomorrow!
Have a good day/night

(22-Jun-2019, 09:42 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: OK, I'll get you started.

First download the latest version of the R9 Slim+ FLEX firmware (2019-02-13 / 190201) from the following link...

https://www.frsky-rc.com/wp-content/uplo...190201.zip

You were using SBUS connection without SmartPort telemetry on your previous R9MM installation (HERE), so I'm going to assume you just want to keep things the same with the R9 Slim+ installation which will be the simplest option to start off with because it won't require any rewiring or Betaflight configuration changes. For this you will need to flash the R9Slim_FLEX.frk firmware file from the downloaded ZIP file.

Then follow the instructions in the video below. If you don't speak Italian then just turn on subtitles.

1. I downloaded the latest version of R9 Slim+ FLEX firmware
2. I flashed it on the R9 Slim +         (flash S.Port)
3. Taranis restart
4. I wired it as depicted on the pictures
5. I made an effort to bind it but with no result (red light blinking).

I provide a couple of pics in order to gain SA what I have done.
Note:
there is a led light on the back of the drone. I searched the manual about what it is but with no result on the search . I will send a request to TBS.

You do have a problem with the wiring (I will cover that later), but the wiring to the FC has no bearing on binding the binding the transmitter to the receiver. So if binding isn't working then that is a separate problem from any FC wiring. What version of firmware you have installed on your the R9 module in the back of your transmitter? You need to make sure you also have the FLEX version of the firmware on that.

To be sure, I suggest you download the latest version of the R9M FLEX firmware (2019-02-13 / 190117) from the following link...

https://www.frsky-rc.com/wp-content/uplo...190117.zip

Then flash it to the R9M module. The following video will show you how to do that...




As for the wiring between the R9 Slim+ and the FC, you need to connect the TX1 pin (blue wire) of the Slim+ to the UART2 RX pin of your FC. That is the inverted SBUS connection which is what you need to use. You currently have the S.Port pin (green wire) of the Slim+ connected which is not correct.

(23-Jun-2019, 11:27 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: You do have a problem with the wiring (I will cover that later), but the wiring to the FC has no bearing on binding the binding the transmitter to the receiver. So if binding isn't working then that is a separate problem from any FC wiring. What version of firmware you have installed on your the R9 module in the back of your transmitter? You need to make sure you also have the FLEX version of the firmware on that.

To be sure, I suggest you download the latest version of the R9M FLEX firmware (2019-02-13 / 190117) from the following link...

https://www.frsky-rc.com/wp-content/uplo...190117.zip

Then flash it to the R9M module. The following video will show you how to do that...




As for the wiring between the R9 Slim+ and the FC, you need to connect the TX1 pin (blue wire) of the Slim+ to the UART2 RX pin of your FC. That is the inverted SBUS connection which is what you need to use. You currently have the S.Port pin (green wire) of the Slim+ connected which is not correct.

I just followed the procedures:
1. Green light on the receiver when Taranis is powered on

However I think I have a greater problem with FC.
The drone's FC is not powered on when I am plugging it on USB port or on the battery (I must have burnt something)
I provide 1pic during plug in and after
during plug in:

shortly after:

OK. So if you got a green light on the R9 Slim+ then your QX7 is now successfully bound to it.

As for the power issue, are you able to connect to the FC via USB using Betaflight Configurator?

No access to betaflight.
Cannot open the port.
No green or red light on FC illuminates

Try a different cable. If you are still not getting any led on your FC, then your FC might be toasted.

(23-Jun-2019, 11:19 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: Try a different cable. If you are still not getting any led on your FC, then your FC might be toasted.

I think it is burnt to the ground.

(24-Jun-2019, 02:09 AM)MSIOU Wrote: I think it is burnt to the ground.

That is a bummer.

(23-Jun-2019, 01:23 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: OK. So if you got a green light on the R9 Slim+ then your QX7 is now successfully bound to it.

As for the power issue, are you able to connect to the FC via USB using Betaflight Configurator?

Morning SnowLeopard.
I hope you are just fine.
I will give you a hint about the incident.
The day of failure I plugged in power to the TBS POWERCUBE V2 without the VTx antenna.
By the time i plugged in power, smokes raised I disconnected the battery within 3-4 seconds.
Facts:
1. The VTx trasmitter has a constant blue and a blinking orange (once per sec)
2. FC colibri does not power up (either with battery or by usb when plugged in the PC)
3. When I plug in the battery I have no picture on my goggles (i have gone through manually search in the frequencies of E band)
Any ideas what:
1. What has happened overalll?
2. What parts can have been affected?
3. How can I checkout that the VTx board is working properly?
4. Can the camera have been affected?

I appear to have missed your last post yesterday. If you got smoke and now nothing is working, you probably burned one or more voltage regulators on the flight controller board. In future, always use a smoke stopper.

The first thing I would do is to use a multimeter to check if you are getting +12V and +5V on the 12-pin stack header connector with a LiPo connected. That will than at least tell you if you are getting regulated voltages from the PDB which is the board at the bottom of the stack.

(27-Jun-2019, 11:23 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: I appear to have missed your last post yesterday. If you got smoke and now nothing is working, you probably burned one or more voltage regulators on the flight controller board. In future, always use a smoke stopper.

The first thing I would do is to use a multimeter to check if you are getting +12V and +5V on the 12-pin stack header connector with a LiPo connected. That will than at least tell you if you are getting regulated voltages from the PDB which is the board at the bottom of the stack.

Greetings SnowLeopard.
My new powercube just arrived and I am planning to replace it on my falcon.
Since I have not done it before, I would like your advice, especially to any contingencies that may raise from your experience to new guys like me.
It might look just a replacement but I would be grateful to hear your opinion.
Best regards Siou.
I will keep the damaged cube in order to make the troubleshoot as you told me and expand my knowledge on fpv further.
I have found the video of Painless360

(01-Jul-2019, 07:47 PM)MSIOU Wrote: My new powercube just arrived and I am planning to replace it on my falcon.
Since I have not done it before, I would like your advice, especially to any contingencies that may raise from your experience to new guys like me.
It might look just a replacement but I would be grateful to hear your opinion.

These are some of the basic golden rules:-

1. Make sure your soldering skills are reasonably good, use liberal amounts of flux, and use leaded solder (not the lead free rubbish).
   
2. Use a soldering iron that has a temperature control knob on so you can precisely adjust the temperature.
   
3. With the exception of the LiPo pads, be careful that you don't overheat the smaller pads when soldering otherwise you risk burning a pad off completely or over-cooking a nearby component. A higher heat applied for a shorter time is better than a lower heat applied for a longer time, because the longer you apply heat, the more heat soak will be induced into the pads and components, thus risking unnecessary damage.
   
4. Use silicone insulated wiring and not the PVC insulated rubbish because the insulation on silicone wire won't shrink back when soldering it, so you don't end up with dangerously exposed wiring that can cause a potential short.
   
5. Always twist and tin the ends of wire before soldering them on because it helps to keep the strands together and stops any "straying" from the main core thus mitigating any possible short circuits when you solder them onto pads.
   
6. After soldering, check the board with a magnifying class for any minute stray solder balls that may have got between pins on components. It's a good idea to brush the board over with something like a stiff bristled paint brush after soldering.
   
7. Before powering up, do a continuity check between VBAT and ground, between +5V rail and ground, and between any other regulated voltage rail and ground (i.e. the 12V rail on the PowerCube).
   
8. When powering up on the bench, always use a smoke stopper as mentioned in my previous post. If you don't have one of these then either buy or make one. Don't get one of the polyfuse based ones as they are too slow to "blow" on sensitive electronic circuits like the ones used in our multi-rotors. Use a light bulb smoke stopper.
   

There are probably a few other things but those are some of the most important ones.

Never throw away dead boards and stacks because you never know when the whole thing or some of the components from them might come in handy. Just keep them in a "parts bin"