Posts: 102 Threads: 13 Likes Received: 10 in 8 posts Likes Given: 9 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 3 I think you need a 12V regulator for your cam and VTx. Do you own a naze32? If I have the time, i draw all the connections. I can't promise though. My quad: RD-210 / ZMX V3 2206 2140kv / Aikon SEFM 30A / X-Racer F303 V3 / X4R-SB / Dronelab 1500 4S 50C • Posts: 1,290 Threads: 67 Likes Received: 713 in 473 posts Likes Given: 1,216 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 23 Yes I have a Naze32. The documentation for the can and the VTX indicate the will both operate win the voltage range of a 3S or 4S. However, I will look into it some more. Thank you for the offer, but you've already helped me a significant amount. I am sure you've got better things to do then nurse newbies like me along, but thank you! If I can't cypher it out, I may take you up on the offer, but for now I'll bumble along on my own. : ) Thank you for all your help!! "Damn the torpedoes!!! Full speed ahead!!!" • Posts: 1,070 Threads: 70 Likes Received: 742 in 378 posts Likes Given: 577 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 44 Not sure which ESCs have You chosen, but some of them tend to produce voltage spikes that can fry Your FPV equipment when directly connected to 4s power line. So either go with a good power filter or regulate to 12v. Both would be probably the best solution. • Posts: 1,290 Threads: 67 Likes Received: 713 in 473 posts Likes Given: 1,216 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 23 I hadn't thought about that (gee, there's a surprise). I am using Rotorgeeks 20A and they don't have a BEC, so no issue?? There is a 5V supply built onto the PDB (for FC & OSD) and I have an LC filter on the way to protect the FPV gear. Thanks for the input, as I am sure it has become quite apparent, I need all the help I can get. "Damn the torpedoes!!! Full speed ahead!!!" • Posts: 102 Threads: 13 Likes Received: 10 in 8 posts Likes Given: 9 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 3 13-Mar-2016, 02:35 PM (This post was last modified: 13-Mar-2016, 02:35 PM by Luc.) Buy a 12V regulator too, it would be much safer for your FPV equipment as Konrad said. This is the right one: http://www.fpvmodel.com/mini-dc-dc-12v-v...g1045.html This one should be suitable too, it's cheaper: http://www.banggood.com/5V-12V-Adjustabl...31884.html My quad: RD-210 / ZMX V3 2206 2140kv / Aikon SEFM 30A / X-Racer F303 V3 / X4R-SB / Dronelab 1500 4S 50C • Posts: 1,290 Threads: 67 Likes Received: 713 in 473 posts Likes Given: 1,216 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 23 I'll get the one from FPVModel.....I've got some real issues with Banggood. Is it still necessary to have a line filter. or does the regulator take care of that? "Damn the torpedoes!!! Full speed ahead!!!" • Posts: 102 Threads: 13 Likes Received: 10 in 8 posts Likes Given: 9 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 3 Yes, LC filter is necessary My quad: RD-210 / ZMX V3 2206 2140kv / Aikon SEFM 30A / X-Racer F303 V3 / X4R-SB / Dronelab 1500 4S 50C • Posts: 1,070 Threads: 70 Likes Received: 742 in 378 posts Likes Given: 577 Joined: Jan 2016 Reputation: 44 13-Mar-2016, 04:04 PM (This post was last modified: 13-Mar-2016, 04:05 PM by KonradS.) (13-Mar-2016, 02:02 PM)sirdude Wrote: I am using Rotorgeeks 20A and they don't have a BEC, so no issue?? BEC or no BEC doesn't matter - the spikes go to the main power line. If a spike is large enough on a fresh 4s, the voltage may go high enough to damage components if left unfiltered. Regulated 12V will help keeping components cool - especially the VTX. Regulators help to reduce a bit of interference, but some also produce a bit. It's a good idea to plug both the LC filter and a regulator if You care about clear image and relatively cool components. A good PDB sorts all these issues out. • Posts: 1,290 Threads: 67 Likes Received: 713 in 473 posts Likes Given: 1,216 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 23 I'm learning guys....honest I am...slow and painful, but I'll get there. : ). Just ordered the regulator and the LC filter is on the way already. The "issues" actually are a good thing in a sense.....best way to learn. : ) "Damn the torpedoes!!! Full speed ahead!!!" • Posts: 9 Threads: 1 Likes Received: 0 in 0 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 0 I have mine hanging from the wires, I just tucked the UART ribbon between the battery strap and the top plate of the frame and it seems perfectly content in suspension. • Posts: 1,290 Threads: 67 Likes Received: 713 in 473 posts Likes Given: 1,216 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 23 Understood.....I think I would like to secure mine the more I think about it, even though suspension is probably a perfectly good way to do it. I am sure I am in for a LOT of crashes and I think I would just feel better if there is some kind of mechanical connection to the frame..... "Damn the torpedoes!!! Full speed ahead!!!" • Posts: 1,290 Threads: 67 Likes Received: 713 in 473 posts Likes Given: 1,216 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 23 "Damn the torpedoes!!! Full speed ahead!!!" • Posts: 102 Threads: 13 Likes Received: 10 in 8 posts Likes Given: 9 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 3 18-Mar-2016, 09:03 PM (This post was last modified: 18-Mar-2016, 09:04 PM by Luc.) So far so good i like your solution, this way you can easily detach the osd for programming. Sorry for not having time to help you with the wiring, i'm too busy at the moment. But I guess you don't need it anyway Soldering looks great btw! My quad: RD-210 / ZMX V3 2206 2140kv / Aikon SEFM 30A / X-Racer F303 V3 / X4R-SB / Dronelab 1500 4S 50C • Posts: 1,290 Threads: 67 Likes Received: 713 in 473 posts Likes Given: 1,216 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 23 Trust me, I understand busy. Your comments and input have been very helpful!! Thanks!! "Damn the torpedoes!!! Full speed ahead!!!" • Posts: 119 Threads: 9 Likes Received: 9 in 4 posts Likes Given: 0 Joined: Mar 2016 Reputation: 2 Kinda late, but I double side taped it to the top of the fc and wrapped a zip tie around both. • |