I think you need a 12V regulator for your cam and VTx. Do you own a naze32? If I have the time, i draw all the connections. I can't promise though.

Yes I have a Naze32. The documentation for the can and the VTX indicate the will both operate win the voltage range of a 3S or 4S. However, I will look into it some more. Thank you for the offer, but you've already helped me a significant amount. I am sure you've got better things to do then nurse newbies like me along, but thank you! If I can't cypher it out, I may take you up on the offer, but for now I'll bumble along on my own. : ) Thank you for all your help!!

Not sure which ESCs have You chosen, but some of them tend to produce voltage spikes that can fry Your FPV equipment when directly connected to 4s power line. So either go with a good power filter or regulate to 12v. Both would be probably the best solution.

I hadn't thought about that (gee, there's a surprise). I am using Rotorgeeks 20A and they don't have a BEC, so no issue?? There is a 5V supply built onto the PDB (for FC & OSD) and I have an LC filter on the way to protect the FPV gear. Thanks for the input, as I am sure it has become quite apparent, I need all the help I can get.

Buy a 12V regulator too, it would be much safer for your FPV equipment as Konrad said. 

This is the right one: 
http://www.fpvmodel.com/mini-dc-dc-12v-v...g1045.html




This one should be suitable too, it's cheaper:
http://www.banggood.com/5V-12V-Adjustabl...31884.html

I'll get the one from FPVModel.....I've got some real issues with Banggood. Is it still necessary to have a line filter. or does the regulator take care of that?

Yes, LC filter is necessary

(13-Mar-2016, 02:02 PM)sirdude Wrote: I am using Rotorgeeks 20A and they don't have a BEC, so no issue??

BEC or no BEC doesn't matter - the spikes go to the main power line. If a spike is large enough on a fresh 4s, the voltage may go high enough to damage components if left unfiltered.

Regulated 12V will help keeping components cool - especially the VTX. Regulators help to reduce a bit of interference, but some also produce a bit. It's a good idea to plug both the LC filter and a regulator if You care about clear image and relatively cool components. A good PDB sorts all these issues out.

I'm learning guys....honest I am...slow and painful, but I'll get there. : ). Just ordered the regulator and the LC filter is on the way already. The "issues" actually are a good thing in a sense.....best way to learn. : )

I have mine hanging from the wires, I just tucked the UART ribbon between the battery strap and the top plate of the frame and it seems perfectly content in suspension.

Understood.....I think I would like to secure mine the more I think about it, even though suspension is probably a perfectly good way to do it. I am sure I am in for a LOT of crashes and I think I would just feel better if there is some kind of mechanical connection to the frame.....

Obviously a long way from being done, but attached is my solution for mounting the OSD board.

So far so good i like your solution, this way you can easily detach the osd for programming. Sorry for not having time to help you with the wiring, i'm too busy at the moment. But I guess you don't need it anyway Soldering looks great btw!

Trust me, I understand busy. Your comments and input have been very helpful!! Thanks!!

Kinda late, but I double side taped it to the top of the fc and wrapped a zip tie around both.