The diagram you posted earlier had the wires going to r1 and t1.

I suggested using r2 and t2, which are the pads two up from your initial diagram.

If you followed my suggestion and connected to r2 and t2, you still have serial rx enabled on the wrong uart. You currently have it enabled on uart1. Disable it in that and enable it on uart2 instead.

If you didn’t follow my suggestion and used r1 and t1, you may be running into a conflict with your vtx, which I think is wired into uart1, using t1.

If this is the case, you may need to move those wires up to r2 and t2, or r3 and t3.

If you’re not 100% sure which pads you connected to, you’re going to need to open it up to take pictures (leave it open, you may need to move wiring).

[attachment=10304 Wrote:Lemonyleprosy pid='191452' dateline='1678505458']The diagram you posted earlier had the wires going to r1 and t1.

I suggested using r2 and t2, which are the pads two up from your initial diagram.

If you followed my suggestion and connected to r2 and t2, you still have serial rx enabled on the wrong uart. You currently have it enabled on uart1. Disable it in that and enable it on uart2 instead.

If you didn’t follow my suggestion and used r1 and t1, you may be running into a conflict with your vtx, which I think is wired into uart1, using t1.

If this is the case, you may need to move those wires up to r2 and t2, or r3 and t3.

If you’re not 100% sure which pads you connected to, you’re going to need to open it up to take pictures (leave it open, you may need to move wiring).

I promise you that I followed your instructions and used the T2 and R2 pads on the FC. And the port setting is on UART 2 like you told me to set it to. Here are some other settings for you to take a look at.

Your settings are correct, so we’re going to have to double check your wiring.

Please post clear photos of the wiring to the receiver and the wiring to the flight controller.

I will be back as quick as I can.

[attachment=10305 Wrote:Lemonyleprosy pid='191455' dateline='1678506657']Your settings are correct, so we’re going to have to double check your wiring.

Please post clear photos of the wiring to the receiver and the wiring to the flight controller.

Here is a picture that shows both the Rx and the FC and the wiring.

Hrmm. Your wiring is correct, your settings are correct.

As long as you have good solder connections on both ends of all wires, and your receiver is lighting up solid green, it should be working.

I apologize, but I’m not sure what to tell you.

I suppose you could try moving the wiring to r3 and t3 and setting the serial rx enable to uart 3, but the only way that should make a difference is if uart2 were somehow faulty.

(11-Mar-2023, 05:55 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Hrmm. Your wiring is correct, your settings are correct.

As long as you have good solder connections on both ends of all wires, and your receiver is lighting up solid green, it should be working.

I apologize, but I’m not sure what to tell you.

I suppose you could try moving the wiring to r3 and t3 and setting the serial rx enable to uart 3, but the only way that should make a difference is if uart2 were somehow faulty.

I really appreciate your time and help with this. At this point, I am wondering if it has something to do with the settings in my Radiomaster TX-16S. I am using EdgeTX in it. There is little to no up to date information on connecting the two on YouTube. I know that the radio and the Rx are bound which baffles me. Maybe it is a setting in BF that I am overlooking. I will keep digging around online and see what I come up with. I will let you know what I find when I find "it". Thanks again so much for your help.

I have one more question. When I connect the quad to my laptop so I can connect to BF, the FC powers up but the Nano Rx does not. It only powers up with a battery connected. Should it be like that?

(11-Mar-2023, 06:11 AM)graywoulf Wrote: I have one more question. When I connect the quad to my laptop so I can connect to BF, the FC powers up but the Nano Rx does not. It only powers up with a battery connected. Should it be like that?

Yes. There are only specific 5v pads on a flight controller that will power up when the board is only powered via usb, and they are usually labeled “4.5v”. Most 5v pads will only receive power when a battery is connected.

Got it! Problem solved. I found a two year old vid on YT and the guy had the solution. The setting he changed solved it. Here is a link to that video. It will be easier for you to watch it than for me to try to explain it to you. That one setting on my radio was set to SBUS for some reason. Now I just have to get the channel mapping in the right order.

Awesome! I’m glad you got it figured out, and thanks for sharing the solution!

(11-Mar-2023, 08:26 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: Awesome! I’m glad you got it figured out, and thanks for sharing the solution!

Thanks and you are welcome. I got the mapping all figured out as well. But at some point in all of the working with the quad, the VTX got trashed. The one connector on it that connects to the FC got broken off. I don't know if I can salvage it or not. I just might have to replace it. Its like they say, "its always something". 

If it broke off on the flight controller side, there are pads on the flight controller you can solder to.

If it broke off on the vtx side, it’ll depend on what vtx you have, but most have pads as well as the plug.

[attachment=10322 Wrote:Lemonyleprosy pid='191505' dateline='1678581091'][attachment=10321]If it broke off on the flight controller side, there are pads on the flight controller you can solder to.

If it broke off on the vtx side, it’ll depend on what vtx you have, but most have pads as well as the plug.

It broke off on the VTX board. I tried to re-solder it back on but it did not work. the connection landings on the board were damaged. However, I was successful in reattaching the wiring harness by cutting off the connector on the VTX end and by a pure miracle, attached the wires to the board directly. It was like micro surgery but I have a powerful magnifying visor and a tiny tip on my soldering iron and got it done. I tested it on the bench and it worked so I mixed a tiny amount of epoxy and secured the wires and connections in hopes that it stays working.

This VTX is variable output up to 1000mw but I think that I won't push the output that high. 200mw probably or maybe 400mw if I am feeling lucky. I don't want to overheat the board and cause the epoxy to come loose. I would hate to lose my video feed in my goggles during a flight. Here is a picture of it.