Hi guys! I have been looking everywhere for a wiring diagram that shows me the proper connections between a TBS Crossfire Nano Rx to an IFLIGHT Succex-e F405 V1 flight controller. My Iflight Cidora SL5 had a crappy FrSky XM Plus Rx in it but I wanted an upgrade. The FrSky Rx only used 3 connections and the Crossfire has a 4 wire connection. I have seen lots of different wiring diagrams online and I am not sure which one to use.

Any and all help will be appreciated.

FrSky uses SBus. Crossfire uses UART.

You need an unused for other purposes UART Tx/Rx pair on the FC, or a converter circuit board to alter UART two wire Tx and Rx lines from the receiver to the single data wire SBus scheme.

TX on the receiver to RX on the FC, RX on the receiver to TX on the FC.

(03-Mar-2023, 08:02 AM)Bad Raven Wrote: FrSky uses SBus.  Crossfire uses UART.  

You need an unused for other purposes UART Tx/Rx pair on the FC, or a converter circuit board to alter UART two wire Tx and Rx lines from the receiver to the single data wire SBus scheme.

TX on the receiver to RX on the FC, RX on the receiver to TX on the FC.

I found a connection diagram online that looks right to me. I made this diagram up to show what I think is the right connections for my FC and the Nano Rx. Please take a look and give me your opinion(s) on how I perceive the correct connections should be made.

That is correct.

Edit- however, if anything else is currently connected to a t1 pad on a different place on the board (like your vtx), then you will want to choose a different uart set, like r2/t2.

After you wire it up, you’ll need to go to the ports tab in betaflight, and enable “serial rx” for uart1 (or whatever number tx/rx pads you used- if you used r2/t2, enable serial rx for uart2 instead). Only enable it for that uart, and don’t select anything in the drop down menus. Make sure to hit save.

After that, go to the receiver tab.
For “receiver mode”, select “Serial (via Uart)” from the drop down menu.
For “serial receiver provider”, select “CRSF” from the drop down menu.
Don’t forget to hit save afterwards.

(03-Mar-2023, 09:59 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: After you wire it up, you’ll need to go to the ports tab in betaflight, and enable “serial rx” for uart1 (or whatever number tx/rx pads you used- if you used r2/t2, enable serial rx for uart2 instead). Only enable it for that uart, and don’t select anything in the drop down menus. Make sure to hit save.

After that, go to the receiver tab.
For “receiver mode”, select “Serial (via Uart)” from the drop down menu.
For “serial receiver provider”, select “CRSF” from the drop down menu.
Don’t forget to hit save afterwards.

I thank you very much for confirming that connection setup. As far as anything else being connected to T1 and R1 pads like the VTX, I have no way of knowing if that is a problem. The VTX is connected to the FC via a cable and connectors. Is there any way to know if there is going to be a conflict?

I would suggest just using the r2/t2 pads.

When you previously had the xm receiver attached, it would have had to go to the nR2 pad, as that’s the only sbus capable pad. Now that the old receiver is gone, we know that nothing is currently using uart2, so it’s clear for use.

Just shift the blue and green lines in your diagram up two pads to r2 and t2.

When you go to the ports tab in betaflight, enable serial rx on uart2. (It will probably already be enabled but double check, and then make the changes I said above on the receiver tab in betaflight)

Thank you for that tip. I will certainly do that.

(03-Mar-2023, 09:59 PM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: [attachment=10298][attachment=10299]After you wire it up, you’ll need to go to the ports tab in betaflight, and enable “serial rx” for uart1 (or whatever number tx/rx pads you used- if you used r2/t2, enable serial rx for uart2 instead). Only enable it for that uart, and don’t select anything in the drop down menus. Make sure to hit save.

After that, go to the receiver tab.
For “receiver mode”, select “Serial (via Uart)” from the drop down menu.
For “serial receiver provider”, select “CRSF” from the drop down menu.
Don’t forget to hit save afterwards.

I finally got around to installing the Crossfire Nano in my quad today. I was successful in getting through the binding process and have a steady green light on the Rx with the battery connected. I think I got the settings that you instructed me to make right but I still do not see any stick movement on the receiver page of BF. I made these screenshots for you to take a look at to see what I missed or messed up. I know I am close so please take a look at the pics and let me know what to do. Thanks!

(11-Mar-2023, 03:10 AM)graywoulf Wrote: I finally got around to installing the Crossfire Nano in my quad today. I was successful in getting through the binding process and have a steady green light on the Rx with the battery connected. I think I got the settings that you instructed me to make right but I still do not see any stick movement on the receiver page of BF. I made these screenshots for you to take a look at to see what I missed or messed up. I know I am close so please take a look at the pics and let me know what to do. Thanks!

If you went with r2/t2 pads like I recommended, on the ports tab, you need to:

Deselect “Serial rx” on UART1 and UART6. You currently have them selected/on. They should not be.

Now select/turn on “serial rx” on UART2. In the drop-down menu immediately to the right, select “disabled” instead of “smartport”.

That should get your receiver working.

For your vtx (video transmitter), you’ll need to identify which uart it is on, and then on the far right drop-down menu for that uart select either “tramp” or “smart audio” (depending on what vtx you have), and then load its vtx table on the vtx tab.

Edit- don’t forget to hit save before you navigate to a different tab.

Just to repeat, you want serial rx enabled only on the uart that your receiver is on, and you want “disabled” “auto” selected in all of the drop down menus for that uart.

If your crossfire receiver is still not working, please post clear well lit photos of you wiring on the receiver and the flight controller.

(11-Mar-2023, 03:37 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: If you went with r2/t2 pads like I recommended, on the ports tab, you need to:

Deselect “Serial rx” on UART1 and UART6. You currently have them selected/on. They should not be.

Now select/turn on “serial rx” on UART2. In the drop-down menu immediately to the right, select “disabled” instead of “smartport”.

That should get your receiver working.

For your vtx (video transmitter), you’ll need to identify which uart it is on, and then on the far right drop-down menu for that uart select either “tramp” or “smart audio” (depending on what vtx you have), and then load its vtx table on the vtx tab.

Edit- don’t forget to hit save before you navigate to a different tab.

I followed your instructions but I still am not getting any stick movement shown on the receiver page of BF. I double checked my radio settings and I am pretty sure that I have them right as well. I know that the receiver is bound as the light is steady green when my radio is on and it turns red if I turn the radio off while the quad is powered up. Maybe some other BF setting is wrong?

Please post another screenshot of your ports tab with how your settings are now, and post clear photos of the wiring on the receiver and your flight controller.

[attachment=10302 Wrote:Lemonyleprosy pid='191446' dateline='1678504399']Please post another screenshot of your ports tab with how your settings are now, and post clear photos of the wiring on the receiver and your flight controller.

I can easily post a screenshot of the port settings but if you really need to see the wiring, I will have to disassemble the quad. I know I followed the diagram I posted earlier connecting to the T2 and R2 points on the FC. I don't mind to take the quad apart if you really want me to.

Sorry for the mistake. I was trying UART 1. I am putting it back to UART 2.

[attachment=10303 Wrote:graywoulf pid='191447' dateline='1678505043']
I can easily post a screenshot of the port settings but if you really need to see the wiring, I will have to disassemble the quad. I know I followed the diagram I posted earlier connecting to the T2 and R2 points on the FC. I don't mind to take the quad apart if you really want me to.

Here is the right screenshot.