(04-Jan-2018, 01:59 PM)Tom BD Bad Wrote: I guess you checked settings on the TX?

Yes BD, I did. I am using a standard Futaba 9 CAP TX with the standard AETR,A1,A2,A3,A4 FM RX.

The SP F3 has these two very oddly laid out  IOs sharing the 8 channel between them. (see photo  attached).


I have assumed that either IO can be used to connect the RX and have tried both and several other combinations all to no avail. I also assumed that the order goes SP IO-1 channel 1,2,5,6 connects to RX channel 1,2,3,4 in that order. I could find no relationship between the two channels that did work the RX display in Cleanflight RX page. Throttle stick Ch 3 worked AUX 2 and Rudder (Ch 4) stick worked AUX1 and no other channel moved with any TX stick, slider or knob.

IO-2 moves when hooked up 3,4,7,8, moved CF receiver bars 7 and 8.

Here are the IO descriptions from the manual;

Interface definition
IO_1 connector - PWM RX / PPM RX / GPIO / LED Strip
When using a PWM receiver connect CH1/2/5/6 to PWM RX.
LED Strip data signal can be used to change individual colors of each LEDs on a strip of WS2812 RGB leds - Perfect for battery warning lights, orientation lights, indicators, failsafe, display flight modes, etc.
CH1/2/5/6 can be used as a general purpose IOs when not used for PPM/PWM RX.
A 3.3v output is also available.

IO_2 connector - Serial RX / PWM RX / GPIO / UART3
When using a PWM receiver connect CH3/4/7/8 to PWM RX.
When using a 3.3v Serial RX receiver (S.Bus, SUMD/H, etc.) use GND/VCC/CH3 (UART3 RX).
CH3/4/7/8 can be used as general purpose IO when not used for Serial/PWM RX.
CH7/8 can be used for a 3.3v Sonar sensor when not used for PWM RX.
ADC_1/2 can be used to connect Battery Current Monitoring and RSSI signals. (3.3v MAX).
OUTPUT

It is all very confusing and I just do not know where to go from here.   :huh:


Everything else is working perfectly.

Regards,

KK

   
Hip Hip %4#@ Hooray!!!    

Mystery solved.

Oh for a decent set of instructions. Life would be so much simpler!!!!!    

Here is the solution to the mystery.

First off..... Channels 3 and 4 on the photo above are reversed. Three should be marked 4 and 4 should be marked 3. Step 1.

Step two ...... ignore what is stated in the all too skimpy instruction sheet.

Step three........  Strike out on your own to discover the real pin connections.

All perfectly simple when you know how. The sad part is that the solution is quite logical if you can disregard the instruction sheet and the errors therein.

The pins numbers on the drawing are perfectly logical and go to the RX channel numbers as suggested. One thing though each IO must be powered up despite a warning in the instruction not to put power on more than one IO.

Once I powered up both IOs and sorted out the errors and vagueries in the instructions all worked perfectly.  

So simple.

Have I ever told you that I really do not like the way things are done in the quad world?

KK

(05-Jan-2018, 03:26 AM)Keyboard Kid Wrote: Once I powered up both IOs and sorted out the errors and vagueries in the instructions all worked perfectly.  

hooray, now recovery can be spent looking forward to making progress rather than the anticipation of continuing frustration.

(05-Jan-2018, 05:51 AM)Tom BD Bad Wrote: hooray, now recovery can be spent looking forward to making progress rather than the anticipation of continuing frustration.

Hi BD, you mean I can put all my frustration aside and concentrate on the really important things like getting better and the nurses legs.

Cool    

Just as an aside, I ran the motors up successfully from the TX this morning (no props) and all is set for me to tidy up the installation and proceed to the test flying.

That really is a relief after all the silly stuff I have been through over the past few months.

Onwards and upwards.

KK

(05-Jan-2018, 03:26 AM)Keyboard Kid Wrote: Have I ever told you that I really do not like the way things are done in the quad world?

KK

Aw, come on - you know you love it! 

Can't wait to hear how it goes KK, fingers crossed!

(05-Jan-2018, 01:46 PM)sloscotty Wrote: Aw, come on - you know you love it! 

Slo, you are taunting me to the point where I can feel another olden day story coming on.    

Just remember, you asked for it!!

(05-Jan-2018, 03:27 PM)RENOV8R Wrote: Can't wait to hear how it goes KK, fingers crossed!

Thanks Reno. I will keep you posted.

Started test flying today and all is proceeding smoothly.

The very first thing I noticed was just how smooth the motors sounded. Much better than anything I have heard to date.

Wooden It is also way more sensitive than with the Hero.

But again as with the Hero there is a distinct lack of power compared to the Naza M.

Give me a couple of days to familiarise myself with the FC and get the PID settings right and I will start to measure lifting power.

Anyway so far so good and I am back in the air again.  

Regards,

KK.

What are the defaults for dterm and transition sliders (below the PID table)?

   

(06-Jan-2018, 12:01 PM)fftunes Wrote: What are the defaults for dterm and transition sliders (below the PID table)?

Hi FF, I have attached a screen grab of that section for your perusal.

First flight this morning in dead still air and old Wooden It is a bit bouncy on pitch.

Still very controllable so I am quite happy with progress.

Very hot down here and I was thinking back on the good old days when we used germanium transistors. They hated heat and in a country like Australia they were a real problem.

This is why we flocked to Californian products as California is in the same type of weather zone (classified Mediterranean) as Sydney and thus California R/C equipment thrived down here. European and British equipment gave us endless problems for a long time until the use of germanium faded out.

Sorry, another olden day story. Just remember you blokes do not know you are alive with the gear you are flying and this is only the beginning.    

One little aside on batteries.

During my battle with recalcitrant FCs I got very careless and let the volts on one of my two LiHV batteries drop below minimum and that battery dropped a cell.

So I modified Wooden It  to take standard 5000mah LiPOs as well as my single remaining LiHV. (I normally fly with two in parallel for redundancy)

Now I know that my old LiPOs are old but the single 2,800mah LiHV gave out much more power than the three old 5000s. Not for long mind you (approx 2 min)  but reinforcing my belief that the LiHVs are the way to go.

Stay tuned. More to follow. I am not sure when we will get down to the farm again for some real flying but I hope it will be before my trip to holiday camp.    

KK

Oooppss!! I forgot to ask.

I have been using the formula for PID setting P = X, I = P/2 and D = P/5.

Now I seem to recall someone back in the dim dark days on this forum pointing out that formula is a bit dated but I cannot remember what was the new updated formula.

Can anybody refresh my memory on that issue please? 

I seem to have forgotten almost everything I learned about Betaflight during my days wrestling with my DJI Naza M.

Thanks.


KK

Howdy Boys,

I have just come across a copy of the Betaflight Configuration guide and I have printed it out.

Flying is suspended until I have read through this page by page and set the SP F3 up along lines suggested.

I wish I had found this months ago. It is the sort of thing I have been complaining about never finding in the quad world.

So I apologise Betaflight. For any newcomer to quads reading this thread here is the link;

https://www.propwashed.com/betaflight-co...ion-guide/

Well done Betaflight!!  

New hips? At your age?!

You're determined to outlive us all!

I need new hips now and I'm a very young 52 compared to you. Sadly, all the radiation that they had to fire through my hips to cure my cancer has destroyed the blood supply to my hip joints. I'm quite looking forward to upsetting airport security people when they can't understand why I make their metal detector start beeping. Oh, and not having my hips hurt like hell, particularly when it gets cold.

Happy New Year to you!