HEY 

Are high C-rating batteries good for racing?

I heard that a high rating hurts battery life and increases temperature

What is a good C-rating for racing?

Only batteries with a high C-rating are suitable for racing. You won't be able to operate the throttle effectively if the battery can't deliver high current.
Good C-rating for racing 75C and above. 75C is the very minimum at which you can conditionally crawl the track. Not even fly, but crawl.
Yes, racing batteries don't last long. But if you are not ready for this, then racing is not for you.
GNB batteries are some of the best for racing. Tattuu might be better.
Batteries with a high C-rating weigh more for the same capacity. So it's worth thinking about the fractions of grams you can save in a racer design in order to take advantage of a high C-rated battery.

(01-Dec-2023, 09:08 PM)lyoha Wrote: Only batteries with a high C-rating are suitable for racing. You won't be able to operate the throttle effectively if the battery can't deliver high current.
Good C-rating for racing 75C and above. 75C is the very minimum at which you can conditionally crawl the track. Not even fly, but crawl.
Yes, racing batteries don't last long. But if you are not ready for this, then racing is not for you.
GNB batteries are some of the best for racing. Tattuu might be better.
Batteries with a high C-rating weigh more for the same capacity. So it's worth thinking about the fractions of grams you can save in a racer design in order to take advantage of a high C-rated battery.

How do I monitor the internal resistance of the battery? Are there any devices?

I heard that the higher the c-rate, the greater the internal resistance

I'm using ICharger. He knows how to show internal resistance. After the first charge, I make a series of batteries myself based on internal resistance.
Yes, I disassemble batteries and reassemble them into new assemblies.

Be careful when you are just relying on C-rate. Because not all manufacturers are equal. Just because brand A has the same C-rate as Brand B, it doesn't mean they will perform the same. Get some advice on reputable brands. And get the highest C-rate you can afford.

(01-Dec-2023, 09:59 PM)lyoha Wrote: I'm using ICharger. He knows how to show internal resistance. After the first charge, I make a series of batteries myself based on internal resistance.
Yes, I disassemble batteries and reassemble them into new assemblies.

HOW do that !!

great 

(02-Dec-2023, 10:17 AM)Eyes.fpv Wrote: HOW do that !!

great 

Making up closely matching cells in a pack used to be a "thing" years ago with NICAD and then later NIMH. I did it successfully results wise when I raced Stock Cars and Boats.  Back then supply was extremely variable.

While competent at soldering, etc, and have repaired or split LiPo packs with a dead cell, unless truly anal over it I really don't see the value of close matching for LiPo over the time and risk.

YMMV..................  

I have had a few GNB and I do like the 90C HV's but the smaller sizes (2S 380mAh) don't last that long. I have a few 2S 660 and they have made it to the second year. Tattu are better than pretty much anything else I've tried. A 3S 450 gives me 6-8 mins of freestyle. But the ones i use aren't the racing spec ones. Beyond that, from what people have said to me, the DogCom packs are pretty much the best currently, but you pay for the privilege. They seem to be readily available in the 120C+ levels and not sure if I saw some 150C a while back. They seem to be the go to for SBang and probably other styles that demand high discharge rates, but you are paying a serious premium for them, especially in the bigger sizes. Still if you are flying in races with big money prizes, and you maybe have sponsorship, you can probably afford expensive lipos. But for the rest of us mere mortals, maybe not so much.

Best thing is to try a few different ones and see what you like. Once you find something that suits you, then pick a load of them up.

c-rating does sould good but in truth only manufacturrr reputation can trll anything.
there is just one lipo brand which doesnt lie, "noc" where no crating is written xD

highest rating you can get on; tattu, gnb, dogcom..
value for money is just on the expensive packs, no compromises on a lipo is a good route

(02-Dec-2023, 05:05 PM)Bad Raven Wrote: Making up closely matching cells in a pack used to be a "thing" years ago with NICAD and then later NIMH. I did it successfully results wise when I raced Stock Cars and Boats.  Back then supply was extremely variable.

While competent at soldering, etc, and have repaired or split LiPo packs with a dead cell, unless truly anal over it I really don't see the value of close matching for LiPo over the time and risk.

YMMV..................  

You are really great, proud of you