Agreed on quality, the one I lost was probably packaged originally with the Lumeniers

I have had good luck with these from ReadyMadeRC.
Much better than the ones that came with my Emax motors.

(03-May-2017, 02:23 AM)Drone0fPrey Wrote: I have had good luck with these from ReadyMadeRC.
Much better than the ones that came with my Emax motors.

I got these from home depot for like 72 cents per pair



They are just standard m5 nylon lock nuts.

Standard steel nylock nuts do seem to be better, but they carry a weight penalty compared to aluminium.

As they don't have a flange where they meet the propeller's hub, you need to be extra careful when tightening them as the decreased contact area means it's easy to damage the plastic of the hub and weaken it.

Thanks for all the info guys, I will start ordering parts soon and will uprage this page with build progress

(03-May-2017, 09:58 AM)Roobaiz Wrote: Thanks for all the info guys, I will start ordering parts soon and will uprage this page with build progress

It will be great to see how it progresses!

(03-May-2017, 07:35 AM)unseen Wrote: Standard steel nylock nuts do seem to be better, but they carry a weight penalty compared to aluminium.

As they don't have a flange where they meet the propeller's hub, you need to be extra careful when tightening them as the decreased contact area means it's easy to damage the plastic of the hub and weaken it.

I thought about the weight penalty and justified it based on the following logic. 
Disclaimer: Please note the below 2 bullets are logic, not anything I've engineered or validated with scientific research. I very well could be wrong!

• Weight for the overall quad (especially one that is already heavy) likely isn't significant enough to be my big issue for weight.
  
• The actual impact is the rotating weight (same reason that lighter props are better). When I was in racing I heard tons of theories around the impact of the weight of rotating mass on performance for automotive although I am not sure that everyone understood how it worked that argued about it. In this case the added mass is in the center of gravity for the rotating mass (or near the center that is) which should minimize it's impact I would think. I actually just recently switched to the dual-blade props that you see in the photo and my guess is the weight change on those out-weighs (pun intended) the impact of the slightly heavier nuts. 
  

As for being careful when tightening. I know better than to not follow uncle Unseen's advice (I've suffered the consequences in the past) so I'll definitely be more mindful of it in the future 

I completely agree with you about the added weight. Sure, they're heavier, but on a craft that's using 5mm motor shafts, the extra couple of grammes is of no real consequence.

It's just the lack of the flange that presents a problem as the nuts have less grip on the propeller's hub with the smaller contact area and to mitigate the lack of grip, screwing them down harder is the solution as the shafts are never long enough to allow you to add a washer under the nut. Harder and plastic don't mix very well though which is what prompted my comment originally.

(03-May-2017, 11:00 AM)unseen Wrote: I completely agree with you about the added weight. Sure, they're heavier, but on a craft that's using 5mm motor shafts, the extra couple of grammes is of no real consequence.

It's just the lack of the flange that presents a problem as the nuts have less grip on the propeller's hub with the smaller contact area and to mitigate the lack of grip, screwing them down harder is the solution as the shafts are never long enough to allow you to add a washer under the nut. Harder and plastic don't mix very well though which is what prompted my comment originally.

Even clearer, so thanks for that. 

I did need to tighten them down firmly to get a good grip. These props are pretty tough as everyone knows so that should give me a little more protection. I'd imagine some of the other props would be more susceptible to cracking but that doesn't mean that Dals are indestructible... I've absolutely destroyed them in the past (and kept the carnage to prove it!)

Hey all, here is the promised update about this build! 

I recieved all crucial parts except esc and camera so I can kinda move this a little bit further.
Here are all the things I actually ordered after I realized this will be much more expensive than I wanted anyway and opened the floodgates of my wallet:

Realacc X5R 220mm
4X Racerstar Racing Edition 2205 BR2205 2300KV
4 PCS Racerstar RS30A Lite 30A Blheli_S
OMNIBUS Betaflight F3 AIO V1.1 Flight Controller
CC3D NAZE32 F3 Power Distribution Board PDB With Filter BEC
Foxeer XAT600M HS1177 600TVL CCD 2.8MM IR Mini FPV Camera
Eachine TX526 5.8G 40CH 25MW/200MW/600MW
10 Pairs Kingkong 5x4.5x3 5045 5 Inch 3-Blade Propeller
TURNIGY NANO-TECH 1800MAH 4S 65~130C
Eachine VR-007 Pro VR007

and also some accessories like motor guards, softmounts for FC and motors, LED strips, mic and two mushroom antennas for VTX and RTX.

My first impressions were that everything is actually much smaller than I expected, especially the FC and PDB, which made me a bit worried about the soldering job, but I should prevail! On the other hand batteries are quite big and even when they fit on top quite nicely (but resting on the screwheads - will have to put something there) I am bit afraid about the weight which is 50g more than the 1500mah ones I was thinking about; but in the end it will probably work out.

Here are few bad quality photos from the first dry assembly: http://imgur.com/a/ylWIa

What do you think about putting the reciever antennas like this and securing them in the hole with some hot glue? Is it problem that they are bended and/or touching the carbon fiber frame? There will be also the VTX mushroom between them tilted back.

And I am not sure if I will be able to use the 8mm screws I got with the motors as they are enough for the 4mm arm and the motor guard, but when I will add the silicon soft mount, it will be probably too short. Will see.

This weekend I will work on sanding and painting edges of the frame and hopefully next week I will recieve the ESCs so I will be able to solder things together 
Stay tuned!

Nice!

Glad to see it coming together. The photos look great. Don't let the size of the FC & PDB get to you... you can do it! (maybe... actually I don't know but I am rooting for you anyway!)

I look forward to seeing the build evolve!

As for wallet floodgates... I know them well! Mine seem jammed sometimes.

Sanded and painted the frame... juust waiting for the ESC now

Paint job looks great! Take a lot of pictures. It wont stay that nice for long

ESCs arrived today! Here is first part of wiring up; smoke stopper does not smoke, PDB glows and ESC beeps yaay . I have to say that soldering those 12AWG wires to the pdb was kinda nightmare and I was worried that I burned something in the time it took me to heat those pads, but from there it wasnt that bad. Oh and I bought cheap 3S battery just for benchtesting purposes.



I think I will be able to complete everything and make the maiden flight during the weekend if weather allows!

Just two quick questions:

I have two ground wires coming from vtx, I suppose one of them is for the audio which I would not be connecting as my goggles does not have audio out. Is it ok to keep that one unsoldered, or should I put it together with the other ground wire to the 12V ground?

And is it ok if the golden connector on my vtx antenna touches the carbon frame? I am afraid it could weaken the reception or something.

Thanks for anwers and all the help on this forum 

You should not connect both of the ground-wires as it will cause a ground-loop which again could give you issues with video noise.

From my experience you don't need to worry about the antenna connector touching the carbon frame as long as the frame isn't connected to anything elsewhere. You can test it with a multimeter