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F2F Nano 130 G2 Build
#16
I have been using 450mah 3S on my 130 airblade assault, and the batteries have the jst connectors on them as well, I was concerned about the same thing, but like you figured it must ok as that is how the lipo came, to date, never had a problem, however, my 4S 500mah lipos came with XT30's.
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#17
I've finally made good progress on the build.  This build is much more complicated than my 160 - space is extremely tight so it has required much more advanced planning.  To remind you the space I am working with:

 

Note that I am mounting the FC upside down (already set in BetaFlight).  So almost all the wires have to fit between the FC and PDB. (The wires for the LEDs are soldered to the "bottom" of the FC, so will end up between the FC and the top plate.)  Here's where I am so far on the FC:

   

The left side of the first photo above will be facing the front of the aircraft.  The lower single pin is for powering the FC, and will be drawn from a 5V switch pad on the PDB (see below). For photos and info on how I did the pins for ESC to FC connection, see: http://intofpv.com/t-custom-right-angle-header-pins

I am still not sure where the micro minimOSD will fit, so I am waiting until I complete the PDB wiring (almost there) and a test fit before doing any more soldering on the FC.

Next comes the motor/esc setup....
To make sure the esc's were out of the way of PDB, standoffs, camera mount etc, I had to place them very close to the motors.  I decided to use the "wrap-around" method of soldering the motor wires to the esc.  So the sequence was: remove the heat shrink, remove the esc motor leads, test fit, cut the wires to length, keep fingers crossed on uniform wire order on motors (preferring to take care of rotation direction with soldering instead of BLHeli settings), solder, test rotation, determine motor order and mark (hash marks=clockwise), heat shrink, test fit again, cut power leads to length, etc, etc...

      
      

I saved the esc labels from the old shrink wrap and put them back on the esc's - why?  Uh...I think they're pretty...?  Cool
I also wrote myself a reminder because I had to stop and go to work and I'm an old guy..... (the "servo lead" note refers to moving the ground pin on the esc next to the signal pin to match what I did on the FC - see earlier link above)



You will notice in the photos above that preliminary soldering and tinning on the PDB was already done.  Here are a couple more photos on preparing the PDB.
The left side of the first photo faces the front of the craft.  The camera is very close so I soldered directly to the DemonCore (top three holes).  In the next 5 holes, I soldered a round-pin socket strip - thats VTx and vid in/out for the OSD (second photo shows power and ground leads for OSD which I left long, because I'm still not sure of placement).  Notice that I soldered a lead to the unused 5V pad next to the 12V switch for the VTx - this will power the FC.

   

Now comes the fun part - I need to get the motors and PDB mounted for soldering the esc's to the PDB.  This requires a lot of steps, because I am using the 3D-printed (nylon) crash protectors on the frame.  The screws for the motors, PDB, and all standoffs go through these protectors, and the zip-ties holding the esc's fit "inside" the protectors.  That means I have to strap the esc's to the arms before adding the protectors and bolting the motors.  (Oh, and don't forget to tin leads and swap pins!) The photos below illustrate the sequence.

      
   

(Sorry about the lipo strap Oscar - I tried, but they were too long. Undecided  I will use them in another build - promise  Rolleyes )
By the way, the nuts holding the PDB down will be replaced by standoffs once I'm ready to mount the FC.

So now I'm ready for soldering the battery lead, and the esc's - but dang it!  I've gotta go take care of my girlfriend's dog and then go to work.  Dodgy  More soon...
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#18
You're right Scotty.....that's a tight one, but nice work so far!! Smile   Looking forward to the maiden...should have that by...what, this afternoon??? Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin
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#19
(08-16-2016, 02:19 PM)sirdude Wrote: You're right Scotty.....that's a tight one, but nice work so far!! Smile   Looking forward to the maiden...should have that by...what, this afternoon??? Big Grin Big Grin Big Grin

Thanks!  I think the remainder will go more quickly, but because of the "other" part of my life, it probably won't be finished until Sunday. Sad  (Busiest time of year at work - IT services at a small college.  It really eats into my play time...)
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#20
Doesn't that just suck????  However......I guess it's "work" that enables us to have "play time"....necessary evil I suppose.  Anyway, very nice work so far! Big Grin
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#21
So, I finished soldering on the PDB (except for the VBat wire).  And there is absolutely no room between the boards for the micro minimOSD.  There's also no room between the plates in front of the stack (camera is in the way), or behind the stack (not enough vertical space in front of the rear standoffs because of the battery leads). I don't want to raise the top plate any farther, so the OSD will go on the right hand side (mounted vertically). That'll be OK with me - it'll be well out of the prop arc and it will sort of balance out the fact that my antenna is offset a bit to the left.  It will also give me easy access to the pins for removing Rx/Tx (to program FC), as well as programming the OSD.  And I've decided on a spot for the buzzer, so I now know how to finish this build (coming soon...)

      
   
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#22
You sir, are a better man then I....I thought about OSD on my 160, but I couldn't find a way to secure it properly without the props nicking it with any shift at all.  The only thing I really needed anyway was battery voltage and I am getting that through telemetry back to the TX.  Looks good Scotty!!
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#23
(08-18-2016, 12:10 PM)sirdude Wrote: You sir, are a better man then I....I thought about OSD on my 160, but I couldn't find a way to secure it properly without the props nicking it with any shift at all.  The only thing I really needed anyway was battery voltage and I am getting that through telemetry back to the TX.  Looks good Scotty!!

Thanks!  Yeah, the next time I do a build this small, I'll probably use a PDB (or FC) with integrated OSD - like the RROSD or PowerOSD (that's on my 160).  Only thing I don't like about those two is having ESC pads on only one edge of the board. The demoncore has both +/- on both edges - that made the wire arrangement much easier and cleaner.
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#24
I didn't think about using an integrated PDB until I had it half assembled.....by that time, I was too close to getting it in the air to back up. Big Grin
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#25
You also have a combined FC, PDB and OSD:

In the description, they have both PAL and NTSC boards. I'm not sure if you can mix PAL and NTSC on them as I have never tried one of those boards. And the quality? could be good, could be bad. Who knows  Tongue

With current sensor:
http://www.thanksbuyer.com/hglrc-v3-arco...s-6s-49572

Without current sensor:
http://www.thanksbuyer.com/fpv-f3-6dof-f...v2-1-49568
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#26
(08-18-2016, 01:42 PM)oyvinla Wrote: You also have a combined FC, PDB and OSD:

In the description, they have both PAL and NTSC boards. I'm not sure if you can mix PAL and NTSC on them as I have never tried one of those boards. And the quality? could be good, could be bad. Who knows  Tongue

With current sensor:
http://www.thanksbuyer.com/hglrc-v3-arco...s-6s-49572

Without current sensor:
http://www.thanksbuyer.com/fpv-f3-6dof-f...v2-1-49568

Yah, I'm not brave enough for one of these... Big Grin  (maybe after your review...)

In another thread, someone linked this: http://www.banggood.com/Realacc-HUBOSD-E...68098.html

For $15, I'll give it a shot.  If it flakes out, I've still got a PDB and can add MMOSD for $9 - I can live with that.  If it works, great!
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#27
Not tested yet, but it's all together...and everything fit (did find a place behind the plates for the OSD).  187 grams AUW (battery is mounted underneath).

(Now I gotta go make a smoke stopper  Wink )

  

  

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#28
That thing looks GREAT Scotty!  Cool Very very nicely done.  If it flies as good as it looks (and I suspect that it will) you're gonna have a real winner there!  I can see right now that I am going to have to give serious through to a 3D printer!  Can't wait for the maiden!
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#29
(08-22-2016, 03:09 AM)sirdude Wrote: That thing looks GREAT Scotty!  Cool Very very nicely done.  If it flies as good as it looks (and I suspect that it will) you're gonna have a real winner there!  I can see right now that I am going to have to give serious through to a 3D printer!  Can't wait for the maiden!

Thanks!  I just hope the magic smoke stays in for now - lots of wires in a very small space...
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#30
very nice Scotty, great job !
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