I already have five of these EACHINE E017, all fitted with 3D print canopy and antenna protect for the EACHINE TX01 Camera AIO, used for through the lit hula hoops FPV in the after school club I run. 

I also have two more on way! 

BTW, they all now have individual colour matched differing props/camera housing so if (when!) there's a coming together or a clipped hoop and a grounding, the kids know which is which to grab!!

Second BTW, I have fitted a tiny holographic tape strip between the front ducts so the "low battery warning" can be seen in goggles.    


They are a good step better than the 6mm motor E010 and the now long obsolete 7mm motor E011, and give very decent flight times.

I have searched for but not (yet?) found any info on doing the firmware mod to gain acro mode switched option with THIS hardware.

Specifically the std E017 has very good height management/stability (an amazingly good barometer!?). I want to retain this ability. 

So even if the E011/E011C firmware would work (does it?) it would not have this ability, or the controlled take off and landing, which is extremely useful for newbies, esp special needs kids.

The board has pads for a STLink connection for flashing.


Anyone know of better info than I have please?

Don't know about the E017, if Brian was here sure he could tell you something, maybe try RCG there seem to be some brushed whoop veterans there.

Do you have any experience with the H67 board? It is supposed to be nearly identical to the E011. I tried to flash it but the STM utility was unable to connect and just gave me a connection error. Not sure if the ST-Link tool I have is defective or some other issue?

RCG has year old posts of people asking for the E017 to be added, no result. The E017 as a QUAD is much better for newbies than the E010, but is useless for a Hovercraft/Whoover due its permanent throttle management for take off, land, and height control.

The E011 was made by Bayang, the E010 by MJXq. The "Eachine" E010 was also sold by JJRC, Cheerson, NIHUI, GooLRC and Makerfire with sometimes differing canopies and def differing colours. I wanted some Cheerson ones in Orange, but always OOS!! Eachine also sold it in a set as the "Small Pepper" and also later as the "Fast Through" with the pretty useless EV006 headset (Yuk!).

I don't know who makes them NOW but the protocol differs between the Eachine E010 and the JJRC H36, when they used to be the same! Electronics now NOT interchangable.

Also bear in mind that over time there have been SEVEN versions of the Tx/Rx boards used in the E010, and for example the long running V3 does not interchange with the also long running V5. The V4 (White TX PCB) was even odder as it only worked with some V3 gear, and was VERY short lived. The Module list used to show E010 and also E010v5 as seperate lines, but seems now only the v5 is listed.

Inevitably Eachine didn't know what they were selling and were selling replacement RX boards that were V5 to V3 owners!!! (The RX boards are very robust but a really bad hit can off frequency the crystal, as a TX being dropped on a hard floor can also!

AFAIK the H67 was the same as the Eachine E016H, and that needed frequency tuning, search the documentation and you should find, I don't have time for more than this reply!

Checked 6/12/23

Latest Stable Firmware 1.3.3.33

Serial

18 - E010 (rev 1-3, SOME rev 4)
81 - E010 rev 5

ALSO

80 E016H, E016H v2
85 E016H

NO idea why thats listed twice, but it is!

In all cases the other variants like JJRC H36 are not listed.

Thanks, from all the posts/videos still online, all reference the santa whoop (H67) being same as the E011 in regards to flashing. It binds fine to the Bayang protocol and has a labelled STM processor, but as you mentioned these toys potentially have many board revisions. Although I suspect the "Santa" model was more seasonal and probably didn't make it through too many production batches.

Last brushed drone I flashed was the H8 Mini on the OG Silverware... I think that must have been 8 or 9 years ago, even the VTX was DIY. I will try another STM-Link to rule that out. But if it doesn't flash acro, guess I'll gift them away with some new batteries and the speaker removed.

Edit: For the 1.3 is that the OG Silverware? Seems online links for that are now dead.
For E011/H67 that would be the NFE branch, and here is one with a compiled hex.
https://github.com/tulingBerg/SantaWhoop

I have two "Santa" E011's, speakers removed, std firmware, camera AIO

(06-Dec-2023, 06:58 PM)BadRaven Wrote: I have two "Santa" E011's, speakers removed, std firmware, camera AIO

Did you attempt to flash them?

(06-Dec-2023, 07:00 PM)mstc Wrote: Did you attempt to flash them?

No becasue I regarded them as newbie fodder, pretty much all the top Whoop racers were using angle or modified angle (Project Mockingbird) and TBH while they were just about powerful enough, they might have been marginal with the protection I was using for 12-13 year old use with the harsh treatment they were going to get with no self levelling stability.  At the time I also had a variety of other brushed quads like Tiny6/Tiny7/and then along came the first of the 65mm brushless for MY use.

I have five surviving E011s with camera AIO. All big hours and all on original motors, etc.


These all have Tiny6/7 cameras and separate VTX laid flat over the FC board with own design super light low profile 3D printed canopy protection.  With no antenna pointing up they are strictly indoor hall range, but will fit through the smallest gaps!!  The plastic school dining chairs have a horizontal "fart slot" (tm) UK letter box sized rear hole and adding them to the hula hoops makes for a great fun course for the seniors!

Anyway, back to orig thread purpose...............

The E017 seems as a much more recent design better off, its brushed 6mm motors give enough grunt for carrying an AIO (and its fitting and protection) while still giving a very good flight time and decent power.  Its a near ideal balance of power and low current I was not able to get five years ago despite a lot of experimentation.

BUT.......  I would like to have the option of control in removing the automated take off and land, and the in flight height management. Great though it is for newbies (and it is transformative, you should see the grins on a few of my special needs kids who thought they'd never manage it when they found they can fly hooped and other obstacle circuits!) its in need of being switchable to off for the better pilots, and while at it, acro use beckons!!

That's why I'm keen to try to make one acro/less automated to see.

You have to take into account that these are under £20 even at Christmas pricing, and an under £18 AIO completes to cost. Thats INCLUDING a quite usable transmitter. And they are WAY more robust than the 65 brushless motors and ESCs when stalled/hit/tangled and the kid holds fullt throttle trying to carry on.............  

Here's the set I have made so far. Three have Camera AIO from older quads of mine, the rest are Eachine TX01's in a 3Dprint cage.

They all ran for 45 minutes pretty much back to back apart from battery changes fault free yesterday.  Two boys by the end were managing the 10 hoop differing sized hula hoop "track" really well!

Batteries are E010 block shaped 220mAh 1S (unbranded, silver and black labelling)

Headsets are a mixture:-

2 of Eachine EV100
1 of Eachine EV007Pro
2 of HobbyKing Cyclops

and a couple of older headsets and a screen or two for set up.

After Christmas once prices stabilise back to more sensible levels again, pink, black and silver are likely to follow.

After a number of successful hour plus back to back flown sessions, ONE of the school converted FPV E017's developed a fault. 

(Is anyone surprised with them being knocked around a lot?)

On initial bind (throttle up/down) it idled the props correctly, but when the second lift off power throttle was given it hurtled straight to the ceiling with no throttle control. 

At school we just had to wait for the battery to sag, but at home I ran it under table. It was consistent.

I took off the camera and housing. It worked normally.

I put the camera back. It worked for maybe ten seconds then full throttle to ceiling.

Rinse and repeat, with either immediate or seconds to the fault.  Sometimes lasted longer, being OK until it hit something or turned over the first time.

Remove the camera, and all is well.    :blink

Maybe it does not like the weight?  With camera off put a weight under it with blue tack, STILL worked OK.  SO, not weight then.

THEN I suddenly twigged, looked VERY carefully at the board under a mag lamp, and sure enough, there was the miniscule 0.75mm x 1mm barometric sensor with its microscopic hole, right where the double sided foam tape securing the camera was touching the board either straight away or once settled down/pulled down by the loom bands.  DOH!! 

Works much better without that obscured!