so we solder the Micro BEC 6-30V to 5V/9V-ADJ bridge first and then what do I solder to the FC?
sorry about the stupid questions but dont feel like burning the FC (AGAIN....)

No, AFAIK you solder the micro BEC to the main Lipo power lead pads on the FC, so v+ and gnd.

Don't solder the 9v out to the FC pad (AFAIK because your FC only supports 5v, but someone else might know for sure), solder the vtx directly to the BEC.

Negative and positive input on the bec goes to main battery pads on the flight controller (where your battery wires are connected).

Negative and positive 9v output on the bec go to the negative and positive on the walksnail.

Rx/tx on the walksnail go to the uart on the flight controller that you’re using for vtx.

Just to clarify, you are not connecting the negative and positive from the walksnail to the flight controller at all. They go to the output of the bec.

omw...sounds very complicated...really thought it'll be a plug and play thing....
can i connect a cable so i can switch my walksnail around between devices instead of soldering?

(09-Feb-2023, 02:44 PM)bar1 Wrote: omw...sounds very complicated...really thought it'll be a plug and play thing....
can i connect a cable so i can switch my walksnail around between devices instead of soldering?

You can use connectors if you’d like, but it’ll still require soldering the wires of the connectors to the same things mentioned above.

(09-Feb-2023, 02:44 PM)bar1 Wrote: omw...sounds very complicated...really thought it'll be a plug and play thing....
can i connect a cable so i can switch my walksnail around between devices instead of soldering?

It's better you realise now that nothing is plug n play in this hobby, or generally in life, except maybe making babies.  Thats about as plug'n'play as it gets (with no guarantees if you have defective kit).

Coming from IT ,I think almost everything is plug and play... If something isn't working I don't run the risk of burning the hardware though lol
Worst thing I have to reload software but anyways
Thanks for the help will give it to my soldering specialist and see :-)

Yeah in this hobby plug and play is not suitable apart from JST headers that connect ESCs to FCs, analog cameras, etc..

You're going down the right path.

Best and safest way to hookup the Nano/Micro vtx (not the 1S one) is via a BEC as has been discussed.   Whilst many FCs these days provide a 9V rail specifically to power a digital vtx (think DJI airunits), a BEC includes extra filtering which is critical for good operation of a digital vtx.

I've built a few walksnail rigs now and here is my decision making process:

If full sized vtx (aka nano/micro) then used a BEC (set for 9V operation) for 3S and above, always.

If small vtx (all three variants of the 1S vtx {Original 1S, 1S v2 (smaller pcb) and 1S lite (small pcb, heatsink removed, whoop style camera)}) then off Vbat for 1S.   If 2S then the 5V pad on the FC is acceptable.  3S and above I would use a BEC again like the full sized vtx but this time set for 5V operation.

The MATEK BEC is the best for these applications as you can solder a pad to program either a 5V or 9V output.   So it is suited to power both type of walksnail vtxs.

Hi.... so I was thinking of upgrading my FC to GEPRC GEP-F722-45A AIO V2, but I see it's also BEC output: 5V@1A.

However If i check the walksnail version of the GEPRC CineBot30, it is using this exact same board. how come?
are they also using a separate bec?
this is all very confusing...I thought the walksnail is plug and play but most FPV's are 5v as far as I can see.

(28-Aug-2023, 05:56 PM)bar1 Wrote: Hi.... so I was thinking of upgrading my FC to GEPRC GEP-F722-45A AIO V2, but I see it's also BEC output: 5V@1A.

However If i check the walksnail version of the GEPRC CineBot30, it is using this exact same board. how come?
are they also using a separate bec?
this is all very confusing...I thought the walksnail is plug and play but most FPV's are 5v as far as I can see.

That board has a 2.5A 5v bec:
https://geprc.com/wp-content/uploads/202...MANUAL.pdf

Not knowing how they chose to wire it, they could be connected to a 5v pad, or, they could be running off the BAT lead on the dji connector- which would feed it battery voltage, and not be the safest thing to do.

Edit- just remembered that we’re talking about the full size walksnail vtx. They’re probably running it off straight battery power, either by a BAT pad or via the dji plug.

Some boards have a 9v or 10v bec in addition to the standard 5v. Ones that don’t (like this one) are powering dji or the full size walksnail via battery power unless you add in your own external bec. If you’re still running 4s, you’re okay to connect via battery power- if you’re running 6s, I’d power it via an external bec for safety.

My number 1 goal at the moment is to attached the V2 to the baby croc 4, 4S.

Assuming that by v2 you mean the full size walksnail v2 vtx:
https://caddxfpv.com/collections/walksna...6344029486

Then on 4s, you’re fine to connect directly to your main battery pads, or to any pad on your flight controller labeled “BAT”, “VBAT”, or “VCC”. (For your positive wire on the walksnail vtx).

Ground can go to any ground,

RX from the walksnail vtx goes to a TX on the flight controller, and TX from the walksnail vtx goes to a RX on the flight controller.

As far as which tx/rx on the flight controller- for example, rx1/tx1, or rx2/tx2: connect them to a pair that is not being used by another thing. So, if your receiver is connected to rx2/tx2, connect the walksnail to rx1/tx1, et cetera.