This is bit of a vanity build, lol. I have a history of building 1s toothpicks and i prolly post too much about them on this forum but oh well..


This one is big, big camera, big motors, big battery, etc..

Using the dragonfly v2 frame from cncdrones: Dragonfly v2-C222 (cncdrones.com) I decided to use the rcinpower 1303 motors to push everything around.  The larger motors help drive the high pitched avans very well.  Lost of current draw though and not the most efficient.  Fun though.


The central locking nub can kill vtxs.  vtx has to go on bottom due to usb port access on the aio being incompatible with this frame.  To get around this I made a tpu part to cover it.


I also printed some PLA parts to widen the battery bands, this helps keep the big batts in.


The Beef.   1050mAh 1S pack on xt30.  Ripped it out of bigdaddyfpv 6s pack.   100C rating apparently.   I'm hitting 40C with this setup.


The canopy had a bit of work done to it, had to print a few version before it was right.   It's a canopy for 19mm cameras from thingyverse.  I loaded it into tinkercad, increased its height by 10 or so mm and added some new screw holes that suited the HD pro camera better.


Whilst at it i thought I might as well integrate the vtx antenna into the canopy.



Here's a hard(ish) rip at home.   Flying with the HD pro cam is really nice.

Who cares if you post too much about toothpicks and micros, keep them coming   -- 3 Inch and below lightweight toothpicks, micros and whoops are the best and the most fun, IMO.

I'd say you are probably one of the master micro builders on here. If there was a forum Master Builder badge, you would have earned it long ago. Just wish i had your skill. So yeah like Cyberess said, don't worry about it. I enjoy your reading your threads, although they are generally far above my pay grade. Not to mention how you fly so aggressively in such a small space.

Keep it going.

Thanks guys, it's a favorite to rip around and get the tune right.  I managed to smooth things out a bit more, decrease the filtering even further and back off on the P a bit.

I broke the base plate, again.   A weakness in this frame design that I've experienced before.


Not this build but an earlier one, before I ordered the arm struts.


I bought two frame kits so I'm going to repair this part and sandwich it together with another base plate.  An inherent weakness in the design when loaded with this heavier setup.

I love this frame though, it corners so well.

Here's some rippage with a higher camera angle. 

Way smoother gyroflow due to the better tune, even though it is gyro data from the HD camera.

Can you manually set the ISO of the HD pro cam? The settings are greyed out when I go into the menu on the goggles. The constantly changing exposure gets annoying!

Hi Ph2t,

For a plate like the one that broke, I would consider fabricating a replacement
plate from either aluminum plate or Lexan plastic sheet. I have some 1/16 inch
(about 1.586mm) aluminum sheet and Lexan in both 1/16 inch and 1/8 inch. 
You could cut a simple square large enough for the largest bolt pattern, then 
just drill it out.An aluminum plate will not break. It might bend a little, but likely 
not enough to notice, plus it can be straightened. The 1/16 Lexan has a little 
(but very little at that size) flex and less prone to break. Just a thought as it 
is something that I would do. 

To be fair, I have both materials and have fabricated plates from both as well.

Pretty much all of the upper plates on my Rescue Quad are Lexan Plastic.

Now, this frame is a bit heavy for a toothpick, however, you would only need the
Center (bottom) Plate as a brace plate. Just one example.



The above picture is from my TUTORIAL DIY Frames - Hany Man Specials

Later, iFly