I decided to try the AOS 5”.
 Assembled with hardware frame comes to 111grams.
 The arms are 6.0mm thick and the bracing is supposed to add dampening.
 
  

 I’m using  ECO 2 2207 1700Kv.
  I had to file away part of the 4n1 pigtail pads for they got too close to carbon and move cap but it’s a roomy frame.I’ll likely use a 1000uf cap instead of the included hobbywing cap .The positive solder joint touches the component next to it but it’s connected to the positive pad anyways so no problem with it creating a short.I started to move the joint but other than cosmetics there’s no need to.
  I’m using 60amp 4n1,Radix 2,Rush-tank mini Vtx and Foxeer Predator v5 camera.
  

You will probably be fine but just a word of caution about filing away any part of a multi-layer circuit board is that you run the risk of filing through traces on other layers of the board that you can't see, At least one other member on here fell foul of that in the past when he tried doing the same and ended up ruining the board because of it. Just a tip and something to keep in mind in the future.

(08-Jul-2021, 06:14 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: You will probably be fine but just a word of caution about filing away any part of a multi-layer circuit board is that you run the risk of filing through traces on other layers of the board that you can't see, At least one other member on here fell foul of that in the past when he tried doing the same and ended up ruining the board because of it. Just a tip and something to keep in mind in the future.

  I’m glad you pointed that out
  I didn’t think about hitting multi layers and sure enough there’s 3 layers of copper that can be seen.
 Picture is a bit blurry but shows the layers.
 

  I tested for continuity and the layers exposed under the +pad are + and under the ground pad are -.
 The layers exposed on the inside are from the grooves cut in pads for soldering wires vertically by factory so I’m thinking this time I didn’t mess up board.

Just be extra careful that nothing touches the sides of the board which could cause a short on those expose layers. If you want to play it safe, just brush some liquid electrical tape or conformal coating along the filed edges of the board.

(08-Jul-2021, 08:15 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: Just be extra careful that nothing touches the sides of the board which could cause a short on those expose layers. If you want to play it safe, just brush some liquid electrical tape or conformal coating along the filed edges of the board.

  I have some liquid tape and conformal coating I’ll apply.

  I didn’t do too much today but tomorrow with fresh eyes I’ll finish up motors.
 The rear motors and a cap will finish up 4n1.The left front wire needs reflowing to lay flatter on pad.
 I 

  

  Today finished up 4n1 and put 2 race led strips on the rear arms.
  I was going to fly but the humidity is 65% and I got the second part of vaccine a few hours ago.
 I don’t know if sweating is the RH or vaccine side effect.
 
  

Progress.
 I finished up 4n1,put on a larger cap, and spun up motors in betaflight using the F4 that comes with G3 stack.I’ll use a radix 2 or I might try one of the new hobbywing F7.
  The Emax Eco 2 run very smooth and nicely balanced.The real test will be with props but these motors run smother than some of my 20+ dollar motors.
  I don’t see any wobble bells or untrue shaft movements.
 

More progress.
 I put two M2 nuts under vtx as spacers and soldered microphone on bottom of vtx.
 I don’t have a receiver yet so I’m not in a big hurry to maiden.
  Soldering up FC is easier for me than 4n1.
  I would have liked to see this frame hold a mini camera.
 I like Runcam swift 2 but it won’t fit.Predator V5 is a good camera and I may use one.
 

that esc is huge, i had to cut a tiny piece near the lipo in to get 1mm+ distance to the frame. i need to add some conformal coating too :-)

Awesome. Do not rush into it but I can't wait to see this build fly. I have just seen so much marketing by the developer of the frame that I am interested to see how it plays out in real life.

(11-Jul-2021, 11:14 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: that esc is huge, i had to cut a tiny piece near the lipo in to get 1mm+ distance to the frame. i need to add some conformal coating too :-)

(12-Jul-2021, 02:07 AM)kafie1980 Wrote: Awesome. Do not rush into it but I can't wait to see this build fly. I have just seen so much marketing by the developer of the frame that I am interested to see how it plays out in real life.

  The HW 60amp 4n1 are big but I’ve not had any problems with them.I’ve been tempted to try the smaller 40amp but if it works don’t fix it is my approach.

i use both the 20x20mm 4in1 and the bigger 30x30mm hw escs. the 20x20mm isnt realy small i outside diameters... its like a small 30mm esc in outside diameters. the hw 20x20mm esc is on my best performing build, i believe in it. i would buy it again, its best quality at a okish price.

(13-Jul-2021, 01:55 PM)hugnosed_bat Wrote: i use both the 20x20mm 4in1 and the bigger 30x30mm hw escs. the 20x20mm isnt realy small i  outside diameters... its like a small 30mm esc in outside diameters. the hw 20x20mm esc is on my best performing build, i believe in it. i would buy it again, its best quality at a okish price.

   You think the 40amp version is enough for 5” on 6S?

yes, i believe the 40a hobbywing esc can handle pretty every usual 5inch motor, as example the emax eco 1700kv would work.

If you look at most 5" BNF quads, a majority of them seem to come with 40A / 45A ESCs, so that must be deemed sufficient for most applications. The reason people go for 60A / 65A ESCs is to give them a huge overhead / safety net which in most cases probably isn't needed, but it adds peace of mind for some people.

60a sounds just more save :-) gives a good feeling :-)

from my experience, the reasons to die for an esc isnt to much current in general. so 60a esc does burn the same way as the 40a escs does; from physical force to the board or huge spike from a crash.
the only thing i feel more comfortable on a higher rated esc is turtlemode, it needs a huge amount of startup power and props are partial blocked sometimes... but on some rpm that doesnt count anymore.
i fried escs with turtlemode which was on the edge about current, but not on a high quality esc. i used xnovas 2450kv on 4s on a jhemcu 30a aio, the cheapest you can go for 30$, it flew fantastic, it crashed well many times xD but turteling fried one esc... these xnovas have a lot power and a huge peak current, i believe up to 50a.


as it is a freestyle build and you have plenty of space and will carry some momentum compared to a lightweight racer, only price is an argument aginst a 60a esc... (a high quality 60a esc, not a high rated cheapish one)
as example there is a new mamba esc, 20x20mm and rated for 75a! on 6s. that would mean its able to handle some 4xxx motors an x-class build, but i believe that wont work at all. the number 75 is just for the good feeling for costumers... i would try it on a hobbywing 60a esc befor on that high rated mamba esc xD