Thanks guys.  I love ripping this thing around the house.  It's so quiet and now the penetration is better too.  I can sit in the backyard and get good, low latency signal in the front yard.  I'm running the VTX is 200mW mode, 720p with low latency (100fps).

I did notice some wobbles when coming off the throttle, read in a few places about dynamic dampening and decided to turn it back on.   The UAVTech preset for 2" micro puts it to zero.   I turned it back on and and reduced filtering to 1.2 on both D and gyro.


It's flying even harder now, pushing it more and more.

I can't wait for the AM32 based esc, cheaper AIOs to arrive on the scene.  This Tmotor AIO is the best 1S AIO I've ever used, the BLuejay based stuff doesn't even come close.

I've put in an order at cncmadness, going to try out this frame:

Dragonfly Lite 3 Inch Toothpick-F192 (cncdrones.com)




And the pickle 3" digital one:
Pickle Toothpick frame (2022 edition)-F184 (cncdrones.com)


It's going to be a while before I receive them, will be interesting to see!

Nice flying.

That top frame looks so damn fragile. I guess it’s not as much of an issue without the weight behind it? I’ve been eyeing the Pickle frames for a while now, so I’m looking for to hearing your thoughts on it.

Yeah it does look fragile, the arms are 2.5mm. The TP3 (or my clone to be exact) is 3mm arms and that is tough. Flying weight is 75g when paired with a GNB 850mAh 1S and xt30 connector. It's not light but not too heavy either.

I've had a couple of pick frames before, I like that he is trying out the 2 screw motor mounts, I like that design. I never put 4 screws on my motors in this class. Anything 2S and above gets four screws

The frames came in today.

I assembled the dragonfly frame, it comes with hardware.  I took some weight measurements of all the frames I've used in this thread.  I started with the thin monoframe which didn't hold rigid enough for 3" but was fine on 65mm.  The clone tp3 frame which is what the current tmotor AIO build is on  The dragonfly and pickle are new.

• clone tp3 frame assembled - 12g
  
• pickle toothpick monoframe - 11g
  
• dragonfly assembled - 10g
  
• thin noname monoframe (1.5mm) - 9g
  

The dragonfly is 2nd lightest and has the same thick arms as the tp3.

This frame is different that's for sure.  It's a squished X pattern, a lot like my armattan rooster was.   I've flown regular X for ages so I will see how this feels.

This frame uses a centre screw to hold the arms in, the tp3 used a piece of printed TPU.


I'm going to try out heatshrink on the stack screws, see if this will do anything for vibrations.

Now that I can see the thickness of the arms in your photos, it doesn’t look quite as fragile.

I mean, it would be if I built it and slapped 1507’s on it, but, that’s not the direction you’re going.

(23-Jun-2023, 02:16 AM)ph2t Wrote: This frame is different that's for sure.  It's a squished X pattern, a lot like my armattan rooster was.   I've flown regular X for ages so I will see how this feels.

Since its a toothpick, maybe can rotate the canopy 90 degrees and have a stretched x. With BF remapping, you can do some back to back testing between stretched and squash to see which one you like.

(23-Jun-2023, 02:16 AM)ph2t Wrote: This frame is different that's for sure.  It's a squished X pattern, a lot like my armattan rooster was.   I've flown regular X for ages so I will see how this feels.

This frame uses a centre screw to hold the arms in, the tp3 used a piece of printed TPU.

I'm going to try out heatshrink on the stack screws, see if this will do anything for vibrations.

I saw your heatshrink idea then remembered Chris Rosser talking about ideal mounting:

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(23-Jun-2023, 03:44 AM)mstc Wrote: Since its a toothpick, maybe can rotate the canopy 90 degrees and have a stretched x. With BF remapping, you can do some back to back testing between stretched and squash to see which one you like.

That is an excellent idea! Partial to stretch X here myself...

Quote:Since its a toothpick, maybe can rotate the canopy 90 degrees and have a stretched x. With BF remapping, you can do some back to back testing between stretched and squash to see which one you like.

I tried the stretched X before on this size and it does corner a lot more like a screw into wood, hard to describe.  I might give it a go though.  I've had that namelessrc toothpick frame back in the day, that was stretched X but a heavier setup.

Quote:I saw your heatshrink idea then remembered Chris Rosser talking about ideal mounting:

Yeah I should actually try that with the bottom mount nut onto the stack.  It may actually pay off especially on a toothpick build with the extra weight of the canopy being taken on by the stack screws.

Here's some updates with the new frame, a different drivetrain and motor change, again!

Here's the current config that the tmotor AIO is running in.  It is the squished X dragonfly frame from cncmadness.



Notice the stance versus a regular square X toothpick frame.

This one is a clone monobody off aliexpress.


The dragonfly frame has the awesome tmotor blheli32 AIO in it.  This time I wanted to try the Mamba TOKA 1103 motors that are super notchy.  Magnets are crazy strong on these toka motors.  I have trouble getting them to start on 1S/Bluejay with startup motor power set to the absolute max value.  On the blheli32 AIO they start up just fine!

Are you burning through the walksnail 1s lites (no heat sink, no cam screws), the 1s with heat sink and cam screws, or both?

I’ll be doing a walksnail build sometime in the future, and I’m not looking to burn anything out.

I call it finicky fidelity.

Got two 1s first gens that have died, one freezes after several seconds of flight. The other died after some exposure to rain/wet.

The 1s lite is overheating, drawing over 2A at 4v. I actually added the heatsink from a gen1 vtx to help it stay stable. Alas thenover heating isngetting worse.

All the issues above across both versions of vtx are just limited to the vtx boards themselves. All cameras and mipi cables are interchangeable and fine. Litr, nano and micro all work.

What I’m hearing here is that I need to find a source for, and invest in, some vregs and the Dialog DA9062 chips if I want to use the 1s vtx’s?

(29-Jun-2023, 04:01 AM)Lemonyleprosy Wrote: What I’m hearing here is that I need to find a source for, and invest in, some vregs and the Dialog DA9062 chips if I want to use the 1s vtx’s?

I tested the failed 1st gen vtx. I used the reference photos at madstech repair wiki. I checked the vregs on both boards, they are operating fine, putting out 3.3V. I know of cases where vreg has failed but I think that is symptom failure and not the problem. It could be a case of the DA9062 chip failing too. It's hard to tell with these 1s boards given their complexity.

One thing I do notice is the constant poor quality factory solder (be it wave or reflow or whatever is used) on the pcbs. I've made several high res photos of every board I own and they all have consistent component alignment issues.

That’s not super confidence inspiring for an expensive thing.