Will veroboard carry enough current? If you don't mind ugly, those wires look thin enough you could probably twist three together (per side) and then solder the left/right pair directly with the batter lead. Otherwise a pair of short copper strips in parallel busbar style? I still have "PDBs" in my parts bin that I'll never use, plenty of contacts for a clean hexa but might add a few grams. Be happy to send them to you. Now days though you might be able to design/order your own PCB and get it in a few days for a few dollars.

I think the vero board will handle the load.   I should of done what you said and used some nifty heatshrink.  I got ahead of myself and the vero board turned into a bit of work. 

But work it does!

Here's a work in progress pic.   Vcc and GND go to the central copper lines, alternate +ve and -ve terminals connect adjacent pads.  On the underside there are through hole jumpers connecting the alternate sides.  It's messy and thick itself, but does tidy up the area of cables.   In the foreground is the FC with RX and isolation switch (for BF configurator programming) connected.


Motor signal wires were simpler than initially thought.  I connected whatever motors to pads M1 -> M6.  When it came to programming, I just did the BF configurator motor re-order config and it was really easy to set each motor number correctly. 


The FC is sitting a little higher than initially calculated so the canopy will need some extra spacers.  I didn't count for the darn PDB.  Maybe I should get one made at pcbway so it sits flush.


So far I've tested it LOS in my workspace and it bloody works!   Comes in at 68 grams at this point.  I reckon it will be approx 80 grams once done. 

(03-Feb-2024, 01:28 PM)ph2t Wrote: The FC is sitting a little higher than initially calculated so the canopy will need some extra spacers.  I didn't count for the darn PDB.  Maybe I should get one made at pcbway so it sits flush.

Nice you got it in the air so quickly. Probably easiest just to raise the canopy, but if you really wanted to resolder all your wires, maybe just make a U-shape with your veloboard so runs around the FC instead of below it,  looks like your frame has plenty of room on the sides.

"dead squid", hahaha best kwardkarpter name ever!

That is crazy. Are there any advantages to this over normal quads...besides looking super cool?

So an update to this project.

I got it in the air, it flew ok but had lots of wobbles.  Couldn't tune it in really.  The AUW is 86g and it is just too much for the 65mm props and the thrust they provided.

I ordered some Cf rod from aliexpress, got 1, 2 and 3mm.   I found some CF tube as well but that took a bit more searching as <3mm CF tube is not as popular.

I was doing some testing of possible CF reinforced arms, trying different widths of arm and placement of rod.  I wanted the CF rod to go under the motors so had to put in a bit of offset for the c-clip at the end of the motor shaft, etc.   Learnt a few things, ie: if the CF rod is 2mm dia then print a 2.3mm dia hole, it allows the rod to slide in snuggly without getting jammed but not loose either.  Took a few tries to get it right.


One of the big issues using CF tube for arms is the rotational slip that can happen when the motors are constantly changing speed.  I used superglue to hold the CF rod in place.   I run the glue down the open seam and then twist the CF rod to spead the glue to the inside edges of the arm.  I keep a spare bit of CF overhang to twist it as the glue dries within seconds.   I then cut of this excess piece and dab a drop of glue on the end of the cut.

Happy with this, it was time to test it out.  The 65mm frame was not cutting it.  I now changed it to a 3 inch prop design.   I could barely fit it on my printing bed.  Had to remove the motor protection spikes from the two middle arms, lol.


The frame is 18g with the CF rods in place.   It is pretty stiff. 


Now all I gotta do is bring the guts over from the first attempt.   That may take a while.

Hi ph2t,

I like it and am very interested to see how this works for you.

I have given some thought as to how to effectively stiffen arms that are
fabricated from a material that has a bit of flex to it. I am giving some
thought to a frame fabricated (by hand no less), from Lexan plastic.
I would like to use the 1/16 inch stuff, but it does have some flex to it.
The 1/8 inch Lexan does not really flex in the short distance that I will
be working with, however, it is a bit heavier. 

Consequently, I am thinking that maybe and additional piece of something
adhered to the bottom of the arms might work with the thinner Lexan.
That CF tube looks very interesting. 

Later, iFly  

dept of 2¢ k...

...for iteration #...:

Tell your slicer to “pause at height”

dab a line of E6000 down the slots

lay down CF tube, rotate like you did before, then resume printing to cover CF

TX for posting progress so far!

How do I tell the slicer/printer to not hit the CF tube once it is laid in place? It would sit higher than the current print layer. If I can get this working the way you suggest then I could completely enclose the cf tube, that would be interesting to see.

nice build work, nice to see your progress

i tried to mention between the motors, they calls "carbon side braces" for a switchback frame as example.

i have some thin but a few mm high carbon for planes, flat (1mm?)
they would allow drilling and mount by screws or fix by another solution.
the flat design does give alot stiffness in in one direction and less on on the other. just if you didnt knew or mentioned flat carbon.

Maybe print the whole trench all the way to the top height of the opening, then pause and slot in the square CF tube. The CF should not protrude up past the 3D printed sides or even slightly below. When you continue with the next layer it will cover the CF tube and sag down slightly if there is space.
------------------
------------------
== #### == < pause here
== #### ==
== #### ==
=========

Yes, sorry for lack of detail in print setting: you allowed "x" extra in width to accommodate fitting CF and space for glue. Do the same in Z height allowing that much ceiling before printing over the void/trench. You may need to add "x" amount more in Z height to do this. Afterwards, back in the slicer locate at what layer this additional Z "x" amount is met with ceiling, pause at this point. Proceed with remaining ceiling after laying down CF (perhaps changing pattern to diagonal for side to side strength in ceiling). hth