Not sure where to put this so maybe this is a good forum to start this thread.

I live in a place where it has to be one of the rainiest place with a population of 25,000 people or more. So my flying is curtailed by the weather a lot.

When I was flying line of sight I actually tried to build some water proof quads.



Then I saw the Darwin Hulk. 

A few issues that made me shy away from the Hulk.

1) I couldn't even buy one if I wanted to. I did try but Darwin simply will not ship to Hawaii. They sent me to Aliexpress. I tried Aliexpress and the vendor told me they were out of stock after a few days. They did refund my the money. So no problem there.

2) I watched some videos about the Hulk. I don't need to really dunk the whole quad in water. I just need something to be a bit water resistant to fly in the rain.

3) The Hulk is very heavy. It has those swim noodles that I don't really need. It comes with small motors that is pretty sluggish.....etc. etc.

I can buy some of the Hulk components. Like today I received the water proof Hulk VTX. It is a bit heavy but it should work. I can also get the water proof flight controller. Motors should be fine in the rain. I think the Runcam Racer Nano is supposed to be fairly water resistant. 

So in other words I can actually put together a quad that is lighter than the Hulk and can fly in the rain.

Before you mentioned conformal coating, that is pretty much out of the question. First of all I cannot get any one to send me any conformal coating because I believe they may be a flammable liquid. Secondly I don't think coating the FC with conformal coating is as good as just getting the Hulk FC.

Granted the Hulk and VTX together will be a bit heavier.

So I am posing the question to the knowledgeables here about the size of the quad I should be thinking about. 3 1/2"? 4"? I will try to stay under 5" if possible. Of course I don't plan to do free style in bright sunny days and definitely not in the rain. So just some cruising around in the back yard is fine. Maybe a 4" tooth pick? 

What motors should I be shooting for? 1404 or larger?

I understand this may very well be over 250 grams but I don't want it to be too heavy.

The Hulk VTX is 17.5 grams

The Hulk FC is 41.5 grams. 

The mounting holes for the VTX is 30 X 30

Mounting holes for the FC is 25.5 X 25.5

So what is a good frame?

Hey everyone, this is my first post, and I am just getting into FPV drones so any help would be amazing. I recently bought a Diatone MXC Taycon Cinewhoop and didn't even get to do a first flight before encountering issues. (Video posted of the issue) 

My latest problem that I am absolutely stuck on is that one of my motors isn't working while the other three are working great. I know that one motor isn't dead because I can feel the first 3 buzzes it makes, but then it fails to make the last 2 buzzes. All of the other motors work with no issue. I know it's an older model, and I've watched some YouTube videos that could be helpful, but I did not find any answers besides a video posted by Joshua that outlined a software issue that caused the ESC to not connect to the 4th motor. It was however for a different board and I am clearly not lucky enough to just find "To have motor 4 work use this target and software" like he did lol 

I have included a picture of the components of the drone and the current software I uploaded to it using Betaflight. Any help would be amazing, and I am also willing to pay $10 to anyone willing to walk me through this over the phone. (Willing to do 20 if we get it to work and it takes longer than 30 mins of your time) 

Hey everyone, this is my first post, and I am just getting into FPV drones so any help would be amazing. I recently bought a Diatone MXC Taycon Cinewhoop and didn't even get to do a first flight before encountering issues. (Video posted of the issue) 

My latest problem that I am absolutely stuck on is that one of my motors isn't working while the other three are working great. I know that one motor isn't dead because I can feel the first 3 buzzes it makes, but then it fails to make the last 2 buzzes. All of the other motors work with no issue. I know it's an older model, and I've watched some YouTube videos that could be helpful, but I did not find any answers besides a video posted by Joshua that outlined a software issue that caused the ESC to not connect to the 4th motor. It was however for a different board and I am clearly not lucky enough to just find "To have motor 4 work use this target and software" like he did lol 

I have included a picture of the components of the drone and the current software I uploaded to it using Betaflight. Any help would be amazing, and I am also willing to pay $10 to anyone willing to walk me through this over the phone. (Willing to do 20 if we get it to work and it takes longer than 30 mins of your time) 

HI,

I have some doubtsI have a question, I'm about to switch from 4s to 6s, simply to experiment with the differences. I understand why the use of 6s has become the standard, but I already have very good power and agility with 4s using a 2207 motor of 2400kv in a drone with a standard weight of 700g, and I haven't felt the need to make the change. However, it seems that the time has come to try it out. If I calculate with the battery I currently use, it would be 16.8v, resulting in 40,320 rpm at maximum throttle, which I understand is the maximum speed at which the motor wants to spin without considering other factors.

It's known that for 6s, motors between 1700kv and 1900kv should be used, and listening to more knowledgeable people in the field like Chris Rosser, I understand that if I want to use my drone for freestyle to avoid turbulence and poor performance, I should use props with a low angle of attack like 5043, 5040, or 5031, and to compensate for the lack of power, use motors with higher kv, which I imagine would be 1900kv or even 2000kv. I'm not sure if this combination of kv and props will give me good results in smooth flight.

I know that my batteries can supply the maximum amperage required by most motors to consider. For example, the 2207 eco II generates a peak current of 38A * 4 with 505.5 props, which would be 152A for all 4 motors, and my 1.3Ah battery with 120c gives me a maximum current draw of 156A.

So, my question is, what benefits would lower kv motors like 1700kv offer compared to higher ones, or if it's worth staying in a middle point like 1800 or 1855kv. I've also heard that people recommend using 2400kv motors and limiting the throttle to compensate for the high RPMs of this combination, but I've also heard that this has a probability of burning my ESC.

In the end, with so much information, I don't know which combination would be best for me between props and kv. I must say that the flying style I like is a combination of aggressiveness and smoothness in flight, so I imagine that what would suit me would be a setup that has control and good response at medium and low throttle, and also at high throttle. What do you think?

One of the reasons that I love Micros and Whoops is that they are so easy to store.

Some BNFs do come with nice little cases, what is your solution?

I have designed and FreeCad draw and 3D Printed some drone boxes, with lids so that when flying I can just throw the drones in my backpack and easily store them.



For my Rekon35





All fits nicely in a draw.

As a beginner, I'm attempting to establish a connection via RX/TX and simulate the operation of a remote control by changing channel values for the flight controller. I'm using Betaflight to verify the state of the channels, where UART2 (Serial RX) is engaged. For the remote control, I've specified Serial (via UART) + CRSF + Telemetry. Additionally, I've utilized the AlfredoCRSF library for operation. However, the channel values in the receiver tab are not changing. Below is the code snippet:
[color=var(--text-secondary)][font=Söhne, ui-sans-serif, system-ui, -apple-system,]cpp[font=Söhne, ui-sans-serif, system-ui, -apple-system,]Copy code[/font][/font][/color]

Well, I used to think that was a “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” frame of thought… plus learning the new stuff (edgeTX, ELRS betaflight) can be a time suck! Not to mention the spare time you have you want to be flying..
I am discovering you “should, kinda” update if / when u get the chance…You can learn it now, or be forced to learn it later…
… I recently acquired the new mob6 HDZ 2024, if ur not familiar with this whoop.. it comes with ELRS. Now I made the jump to crossfire from Frsky after having multiple close proximity failsafes ans Frsky “updated” their protocol and no longer supported D-8. I have a few whoops and small quads on D-8. Simple, go CrossFire for large quads and leave the small stuff on Frsky..
For my module, and nano RXs.. installed. No issues.. until I wanted to purchase another rx.. they were always out of stock.. and price jumped to $30 a pop!..
ELRS had JUST started gaining ground.. already being burned by 2 protocols, a whoop fc had been released with crossfire.. I decided to “bite the bullit” and stick with TBS, “cheap insurance”…
Back to the new (ELRS) whoop..and my new ELRS module…just pop it into my Taranis bay.. install, update, bind and fly.. right.. WRONG!!! I’m still running Open Tx 2.2.*… ELRS Required 2.3.*…
So here I am licking my wounds.. from dragging my feet and not updating open tx -or edgeTX ..
This also goes for betaflight..I still have whoops on 3.5.3 .. and they fly great..but if I want all the “options”.. I’m gonna ave to put on my big boy pants and learn some new stuff…
Do it now or later.. the choice it’s yours .. but at one point your hand may be forced…

Ok I need some help here.

I am doing an AOS 3" Toothpick build. The hardware showed today.

This is the flight controller I chose since I can convert the DJI receptacle to output 5V instead of 9V. That way I can use my Walksnail 1S mini setup. I have the V2 board so it is only good to 5V. That's why I chose the flight converter.

https://betafpv.com/products/f4-2-3s-20a-aio-fc-v1

This is an AIO board with a serial receiver built in. No problem with getting the receiver into wi fi mode and I even flashed ExpressLRS firmware version 3.3.2. I added my own bind phrase and bound it to my transmitter no issue. My transmitter recognize the receiver when I use the ExpressLRS lua script. So it is working.

The flight controller is also working since I can see the picture of the quad moving. The OEM BetaFlight configuration is for the Pavo Pico. The FC was flipped apparently so I have to set the roll axis back to 0 degrees. No big deal.

According to the above link the AIO FC uses UART 4 for the digital VTX. I have not even get the VTX hooked up yet. 

The receiver is supposed to be CRSF on UART5. No joy. I set the receiver to CRSF on my transmitter and enable serial Rx on the BetaFlight configuration page on UART 5. Then I page over to the receiver page and made sure I had the receiver set to serial receiver and CRSF as the protocol. 

No joy. Nothing moved. I change the Serial RX to UART6 just in case. No joy there either. The configuration page had UART3 enable as serial RX when I first opened the page. So I went back and enable UART3 for the serial RX. No joy there either.

Is there something I forgot to do?

EDIT: Thank you. Nevermind, it is working. 

I read this note and it confused the heck out of me. I finally set the receiver to UART3 and it is working.

"Note: [i]If you use the F4 2-3S 20A AIO FC V1, the serial port of the SBUS receiver is UART5 while F4 1S 12A AIO Brushless FC V3 is UART6."[/i]


I did pick two presets. I used the ExpressLRS 250 Hz preset and the Ben Lumley digital OSD preset. However those should not impact the working of the receiver.

Oh and the motors all worked. The motors order was off so I reset them and they all spin the correct rotation and the orders are ok now. Heck if I can get the receiver to work I can even fly this thing without FPV camera.

hey 

I have a VTX that gets hot while flying to 80-70 C in GOGGLE 

walksnail : v3

AIO : DIATONE MAMBA MK4 F740 40A

Update: Latest update 37.42.5

Is anyone using it in a build and if so, could they answer me a question.  Will it take motors that use a 12x12 mount pattern or is it 9x9 mount only?