Hello everyone, I'm a newbie and I'm very happy to come to this new world of FPV

I have flown many, many hours with the ELRS, flying both freestyle, cinematic and LR for 8+ km and never had a problem until this weekend when I had the failsafe. I was in a valley in the mountains in the middle of nowhere, about 300 m from me there was only one building of a cottage. I flew a distance of about 3 km for more than 15 minutes, no problem. I took off from myself and flew far away from that building. When returning from the flight, I was returning from the other side of the building about 500 m apart. The moment I got a little closer to the building, when the building was between me and the drone, I fell into failsafe st1 and then the GPS Rescue was activated. The drone climbed high, flew over the building, and then I was back under control. It was very scary, even though I deliberately tested GPS rescue several times.
I think the building had wifi with a significantly boosted wifi power because it was isolated and when the building got between the drone and me the background noise in the 2.4 GHz band was more than acceptable and the receiver was overwhelmed. The problem is that I didn't have telemetry logging activated in the transmitter for this flight, so I can't confirm the RSSI, SNR, etc numbers.

What's annoying is that it happened at a distance of about 300 m and that no one can guess in advance if someone has amplified wifi outside the allowed limits in their building. I also fly inside buildings where I shoot promo videos. There are an extreme number of wifi APs in those buildings and I've never had a problem with failsafe.

Regarding the flight configuration, I had FS on EP1, the transmission power of the module was dynamic, the FS came suddenly immediately, the telemetry did not even have time to report the increase in transmitting power. Therefore, I think the RSSI was fine, but the SNR was critical.

I am writing this because V-22 wrote in this thread ExpressLRS 915Mhz failsafe into lake | IntoFPV Forum that the SNR problem is in the 900 MHz band and that it is not a problem in the 2.4 GHz band. Well, I report that the problem is also in this band.

Just saw these:
https://www.racedayquads.com/products/fl...d7bd&_ss=r


I think the price is really good, and I was wondering if they are a good match for a mobula 7 1S; If not, could I get some recommendations? Thanks

Guys I am dying over here... For the life of me, I cannot get Aux 3 to respond on ANY of my quads. Aux 3 for me would be switch SC on my radio. I assign channel 7 in the mixer tab to switch SC. I can clearly see switch SC is active on the radio, but in BF on the receiver tab, aux 3 does nothing. Also, in the modes tab, it does nothing. 

So, the radio mixer tab (channel 7) is set up correctly.
The switch is active in the radio (I can see the activity)
Nothing happens on the receiver tab in BF. (no movement on Aux 3)

Crossfire (8 channel mode)
Jumper T16
Mamba F722 FC
Betaflight 4.3.1 (also same problem on BF 4.0.3)

Any help greatly appreciated.

I got 3 "broken" AIO FC.
#3 is waiting for replacement F722 which I will have to figure out how to program with STLink.
#1 appears to be working after replacing F411 (twice).


#2 - Any idea why the props are stuttering and why that SOT353 SMD is super hot.
https://intofpv.com/t-need-help-fixing-b...ifying-smd

Unexpectedly bunch of AIO FC dying on me.



#1. JHEMCU GHF411
USB: No LED. SOT353 "WJ=3" super hot in 1sec.
LIPO: 5V measures 5V. 3.3V measures 0.9V. First half of ESC chime.

I'm guessing this is the 3.3V LDO thats fried - I need help finding this part or replacement.
Alternatively it could be a shorted cap, or dead MCU right?
Should I remove the F411?



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#2. JHEMCU GHF405 - almost working
USB: has LED and connects to USB. 
LIPO: 5V measures 5V. 3.3V measures?? no pad.
Motors do complete BLHeli chime. When you arm, motors kinda stutter. after 5-10 sec, beep-beep turn off. 
The SOT353 SMD with marking L303 on back under gyro is super hot on LIPO.

Anybody got similar symptoms?
Whats next step to diagnose?



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#3. HIFIONRC F7
USB: No LED. 
LIPO: 5V measures 5V. 3.3V measures 1.1V and slowly climbing.
I removed the about 6 capacitors that looked liked shorted.
The RX1 pad was 46ohm to Gnd and 3.3V. After I removed the F7 MCU, I get the red power LED
I ordered replacement F722.

I have the skyzone ox4 oled. i have a problem with my reception video. i have interference in 20-30meters with small obstacles. I tried to upload the FW so i can try to solve the problem but on skyzone  site i found only the FW for goggles not for steadyview for which i think is the problem. Any suggestions?

Hi guys. I will try to keep it simple. Following FPV videos online for long time finally making step to do it myself

So bought myself Jumper T18 Pro controller and having some fun in simulator. I would buy the rest long time ago but there so much to choose from. I think I have finally decided to go for digital system rather than analog.

My question is:

Is there any (hopefully not too difficult) way that I can use my Jumper T18 controller to work with digital DJI FPV googles and digital drone or do I need to get special digital controller.

I would highly appreciate feedback that will solve my life current biggest dilemna  

Hi everyone,

I'm only new to the hobby. I live in Dublin, Ireland. Flying FPV is not just buy and fly stuff there is so much unknown before flying and youtube answers only some of the quesions. There is nothing better than good forum filled with people with experience. Hope to learn good stuff here

I have gotten a new FPV drone, and when I bind/connect the TX and RX together, they bind; but the drone will not respond. My TX is the Radiolink AT9S Pro and the RX is the R6DSM.