i have been having problems with one of my either motors or esc's so ive been trying to trouble shit which was bad the motor or esc and then i remembered i had another esc that is the exact same as the ones on the quad so swapped it with the one that was [possibly bad thinking that would tell me if it was the motor or not. got it swapped out plugged in the battery and armed the quad  and sure enough they all four worked accordingly so i went to putting the quad back together to see how it would fly and when i got props on and outside i plugged in the battery pack and the only esc that lit up was the one i swapped out and now the other 3 that were perfecly fine and i didnt mess with at all wont even light up acting liekt ehy arent even getting power? any thought or ideas?

"trouble shit", I love your auto correction function.

Check all your wiring? Plug it back into BFC and see if you can spin all the motors. What ESC protocol are you using?

(13-Apr-2020, 12:45 AM)voodoo614 Wrote: "trouble shit", I love your auto correction function.

Check all your wiring? Plug it back into BFC and see if you can spin all the motors. What ESC protocol ar

Crazepony 4pcs BLHeli_32 35A ESC is the exact ones i am using and i using the dshot 600..  i ended up buying another set of four for a new build i just finished about everything was going great until one of  my main battery wires into my fc came unsoldered or that is what it looked like to me. but now with that quad i guess maybe when the wire came loose it possibly shorted out my new esc ? dont really know exactly what to think because when i would first plug in my battery pack the esc light would come on liek its supposed to but then immediatly fade out within the first two seconds of getting plugged in. i figureed what the heck i mise well use that  sinlge esc from this threads original post i mensioned and i got it all soldered up and checked for continuity with my meter and it was wired correctly but it did the same exact thing as the other esc as far as light up and rapidly fade out. i dont know how to tell if an esc is bad or not so i still have all 8 of them and was hoping for some direction on how to figure it out. it doesnt make sense because everything was brand new unless it was caused by the wire comming un done and maybe that can make a bad motor output from my fc? i am using the speedybee aio fc and the 2208 xing 2450 kv motors 

here is my dump commands

First thing you do is check that all the power pads for the ESCs are getting lipo voltage. Makes sure props off, go to motor tab, toggle the little warning and spin each motor to see if they are spinning. If all of them spin, then all the ESC and motors are likely find.

If some spin around and some do not, you then want to swap the non-spinning motor with the good motor. If the problem follows the motor than it is likely a motor problem. If the problem stays then it could be an FC or ESC problem. You can then swap the ESC with a good ESC. If the problem stay than you have an FC problem or FC signal problem. If it moves, the you have an ESC problem.

(23-Apr-2020, 05:15 AM)voodoo614 Wrote: First thing you do is check that all the power pads for the ESCs are getting lipo voltage. Makes sure props off, go to motor tab, toggle the little warning and spin each motor to see if they are spinning. If all of them spin, then all the ESC and motors are likely find.

If some spin around and some do not, you then want to swap the non-spinning motor with the good motor. If the problem follows the motor than it is likely a motor problem. If the problem stays then it could be an FC or ESC problem. You can then swap the ESC with a good ESC. If the problem stay than you have an FC problem or FC signal problem. If it moves, the you have an ESC problem.

process of elimination. i will start that when i get home from work today but if it is a signal preoblem from my fc then would gthat affect the light not comming on on the actual esc? and if it is that then i should be able to just use an extra motor pad and just resource re map it correct?

I am not sure what light you have on your esc. so I can't tell you why it is dimming.

yes, you can remap motor as long as you have the breakouts. which FC do you have?

(23-Apr-2020, 01:07 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: I am not sure what light you have on your esc.  so I can't tell you why it is dimming.

yes, you can remap motor as long as you have the breakouts.  which FC do you have?

i am using the speedybee aio f7.. i got off early today so ima bout to start trouble shooting now.. let you know what i find out shortly

Sorry, just saw your message. You can use S5 to remap one of the motor.

ok so it ended up being a bad esc but before i knew that i had already ordered pretty much all the parts to do another build and decided to go with the speedybee f7 fc again but i also wanted to try a 4 in one esc for the first time and i cannot get it figured out. where should i put my main battery wires? to the esc or the fc? they both have spots for them. i put it on my esc then watched some youtube videos and they said to just run a wire from the vbat on the esc to a 5v pad on my fc so i did that but its weird because it gives my receiver pwr to get it on when the battery is plugged in but acts like it isnt bound to my transmitter but as soon as i plug in the usb to the fc it finds the transmitter immediately any ideas on what might be goin on?

You do not want to be connecting VBAT (LiPo voltage) to a 5V pad on the FC. That is a recipe for disaster because it means you are supplying LiPo voltage to the 5V rail on the FC. I'm surprised you didn't fry something.

What 4-in-1 ESC are you using?

So FC with PDB like the Speedybee F7 is not meant for 4in1 ESC. It is redundant to have a PDB on the FC and the 4IN1, so that is why wiring is more messy. The reason you have different options for wiring comes down to what is on the 4in1 and the FC. Sometimes it makes more sense to go lipo 4in1 then FC. And sometimes it is better to go lipo to FC then 4in1.

What 4in1 did you buy, and we can sort out what is the best way to wire up your stack.

i am using iflight succex-e 45A blheli for my esc and the speedybee aio f7 fc

(30-Apr-2020, 09:47 AM)voodoo614 Wrote: So FC with PDB like the Speedybee F7 is not meant for 4in1 ESC. It is redundant to have a PDB on the FC and the 4IN1, so that is why wiring is more messy. The reason you have different options for wiring comes down to what is on the 4in1 and the FC. Sometimes it makes more sense to go lipo 4in1 then FC. And sometimes it is better to go lipo to FC then 4in1.

What 4in1 did you buy, and we can sort out what is the best way to wire up your 

im using the iflight succex-e 45a 4 n 1 esc and the speedybee f7 aio fc...

To connect the Speedybee F7 AIO flight controller to the iFlight Succex-E F45 4in1 ESC, you just use direct wiring using the 8-pin ESC connection sockets on both boards. You can alternatively solder to pads on the Speedybee F7 board instead of using the 8-pin connector. See the wiring diagrams below.

Speedybee F7   Succex F45
============   ==========
G -----------> GND
BAT ---------> BAT
S1 ----------> M1
S2 ----------> M2
S2 ----------> M3
S4 ----------> M4
CURR --------> CUR
TEL ---------> TX