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Ripped off pads on fc, no avaiable uarts, HELP
#1
Hello guys i have big problem with my fc ( cricket revolt osd f4 ) . Problem is that all off my avaiable uart pads, tx and rx got ripped off, i dont know why, probably board is old, so my question is can i make somehow rx and tx pads somewhere else? Remap? Softserial? Is there any way to solder on some other pads? Is it possible to make new pads to work for rx and tx communication? Thanks in advance
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#2
Here is picture of my fc and pads

https://ibb.co/C0FR0F1
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#3
Probably using too much heat and/or holding the heat to the pad for too long when soldering. For the UARTs, you can solder directly to the legs of the MCU. You may want to practice your soldering a bit first and make sure you're confident in making the connections and ensuring nothing is bridged.
[Image: attachment.php?aid=5696]
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#4
On a QFP (legs). Maybe.

On F411 QFN. Much more tricky. Not for avg user.

I would always try searching for leftover trace or pad first.
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#5
(24-Mar-2022, 04:37 PM)V-22 Wrote: Probably using too much heat and/or holding the heat to the pad for too long when soldering. For the UARTs, you can solder directly to the legs of the MCU. You may want to practice your soldering a bit first and make sure you're confident in making the connections and ensuring nothing is bridged.
[Image: attachment.php?aid=5696]

Is that only way?

(24-Mar-2022, 05:36 PM)romangpro Wrote: On a QFP (legs). Maybe.

On F411 QFN. Much more tricky. Not for avg user.

I would always try searching for leftover trace or pad first.

Is there something else to try?
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#6
You can try scratching the pcb with a scalpel or hobby knife and expose some of the traces near those pads but frankly speaking its harder than soldering to MCU legs.

I am still wondering why so many pads were ripped off.

The burn marks around those pads show you are spending too much time heating the pads.

Solder pads that size at 300-350 degC should not require more than 2 seconds to make the solder joint.

If you spend more time on them then essentially you transfer too much heat into the pad and the pads lift off or rip off.

What kind of solder are you using and what soldering iron?
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#7
(24-Mar-2022, 02:40 PM)matinikfpv Wrote: Here is picture of my fc and pads

[Image: A44-A15-B8-EF25-4530-87-EF-61-BE737670-E1.jpg]

TBH, that FC is now toast IMO. Way too many burned off pads to make it worthwhile trying to salvage. I would get some of the Diatone practice boards and only do any soldering on a new flight controller when you feel comfortable and proficient soldering to those practice boards without damaging anything.

https://www.diatone.us/products/mamba-so...tice-board

The following thread is also worth having a read through...

https://intofpv.com/t-how-to-solder-prin...chnics-etc
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#8
(27-Mar-2022, 02:06 PM)kafie1980 Wrote: You can try scratching the pcb with a scalpel or hobby knife and expose some of the traces near those pads but frankly speaking its harder than soldering to MCU legs.

I am still wondering why so many pads were ripped off.

The burn marks around those pads show you are spending too much time heating the pads.

Solder pads that size at 300-350 degC should not require more than 2 seconds to make the solder joint.

If you spend more time on them then essentially you transfer too much heat into the pad and the pads lift off or rip off.

What kind of solder are you using and what soldering iron?

Its old board.. i know that but i didnt solder that pads too long, i made 5 drones and all was good with mamba boards, but this is bad board.. im using soldering iron with tip like pencil, cant change temperature
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#9
(27-Mar-2022, 03:18 PM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: TBH, that FC is now toast IMO. Way too many burned off pads to make it worthwhile trying to salvage. I would get some of the Diatone practice boards and only do any soldering on a new flight controller when you feel comfortable and proficient soldering to those practice boards without damaging anything.

https://www.diatone.us/products/mamba-so...tice-board

The following thread is also worth having a read through...

https://intofpv.com/t-how-to-solder-prin...chnics-etc

I know, thanks for help, but i know how to solder, this board is just bad and old.. but i will try to do something to work
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#10
(27-Mar-2022, 11:24 PM)matinikfpv Wrote: Its old board.. i know that but i didnt solder that pads too long, i made 5 drones and all was good with mamba boards, but this is bad board.. im using soldering iron with tip like pencil, cant change temperature

I have no experience with this FC so I am unable to comment on its build quality. You may have a bad manufacturing batch.

I will suggest you get a temperature controlled soldering iron (even a portable TS100 goes for under $60) which is not a bad investment considering the current high prices of FPV components.
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#11
(28-Mar-2022, 12:38 AM)kafie1980 Wrote: I have no experience with this FC so I am unable to comment on its build quality. You may have a bad manufacturing batch.

I will suggest you get a temperature controlled soldering iron (even a portable TS100 goes for under $60) which is not a bad investment considering the current high prices of FPV components.

Is it good for long run? Ts100
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#12
Bardwell was showing this one a while back as a cheaper competitor to the TS100:

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