I replaced FC with exact same version,flashed the same version of betaflight and used a saved file and uploaded it to the new replacement.
 Everything worked except orientation was off 90 or 270 and my vtx + only is getting 5v even though 5v and 7.2 v pads are bridged together.
  I was able to adjust yaw using betaflight but getting 5volt instead of 11.6 I don’t know where to start.
  It’s strange that the settings uploaded but not the orientation or the voltage for vtx but I know nothing about betaflight yet.
 First picture is work from Armattan.
Second picture is my work.
 The only thing different I did was leave off buzzer and didn’t turn anything off or onin betaflight.I did notice OSD is on in settings and I use DJI goggles?

I can’t see any thing I did wrong and the orientation not matching the first one makes me wonder if I have something different in the user selectable 5v or 7.2 choices.
The directions don’t mention jumping 5 with 7.2 volt but Armattan said that’s the way you get 11,6 volts and that’s all that was needed to get 11.6 volts at vtx +.
The orientation being different is very odd.
The numbers on my new one are 1951 while older one is 2022.Other than that they are identical.

I tested the 5v and the 7.2 volt user selectable BEC and the 7.2 volt choice is only putting out 1.2volts.
The 5v pad when bridged gives 5 volts to vtx but the 7.2 volt choice when bridged only gives 1.2 volts.
What is really messed up is my old FC still delivers 11.6 volts to FC but it won’t power up.
This one works great but the 7.2 bec choice is not working.

The BEC doesn’t deliver the correct voltage to air unit.
The 5 volt choice gives 5 volts but the 7.2volt choice gives 1.2 volts,together they are supposed to give 11.6.

You incorrectly bridged the 5/7.2 v. You only bridge either the 7.2v or 5V to the middle pad. You don't bridge all three.

I am not sure if you can combine them like that.

Armattan said to bridge them both together for 11.6 volts and the first picture is the one done by Armattan.
When I seen the directions say one or the other I could not understand why Armattan bridged them both together and I verified it with them before doing so.
I’ll try rotating second picture again but it’s Armattan work on the left which gives 11.66 volts at vtx + my work is on the right.

It drove me half bonkers because the directions say one or the other so I contacted Armattan direct since they bridged both together days before I got the FC.
I asked if bridging the 5v and 7.2 volt pads together was how they got 11.6 volts at vtx+ and they replied

“ This is correct. We work directly with the designer of this FC and it was made specifically for us to have the versatility to use nearly any components on the market with few exceptions(if there are any, so far only non-authentic Spektrum receivers seem to be an issue) This allows you to produce just around 11-12v for the air unit which puts you comfortably in range to enjoy it to its fullest. Please let me know if you need anything else at all!”

It is posted on Facebook by Clracing also.
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?s...4616399223

Does any settings on betaflight have any effect on the vtx+ voltage?

https://www.facebook.com/559924544428234...n__=EEHH-R

 Here it is posted by Clracing.

I can't argue with the designer. Most BEC don't like being connected like that. It sounds like your 7.2V might have gone bad. If you desolder the bridge, you should get 7.2V on the 7.2V. 1.2V sounds like a bad regulator.

(27-Sep-2020, 11:17 PM)Rob3ddd Wrote: https://www.facebook.com/559924544428234...n__=EEHH-R

 Here it is posted by Clracing.

The clue might be in the description of the Facebook post. They say if you have a V1.6 board then blah blah blah. Maybe the ability to combine voltages hasn't been designed to work the same way on older versions of the boards. Do you know what version you bought as a replacement? I see vendors still selling the V1.4 and V1.5 boards so maybe you got one of those older ones.

(27-Sep-2020, 11:38 PM)voodoo614 Wrote: I can't argue with the designer. Most BEC don't like being connected like that. It sounds like your 7.2V might have gone bad. If you desolder the bridge, you should get 7.2V on the 7.2V. 1.2V sounds like a bad regulator.

   I didn’t like the directions at all and contacted Armattan days before it came.
 That was the only questionable thing and betaflight or computer work.
  I agree the 1.2volt reading is a sign something is bad supplying power.
 I got it 2-3 days ago,did a test fly and trimmed it out LOS.Put goggles on and green led is lit on air unit but black screen with low battery in quad warning.

 It’s disappointing and to be honest from the time wasted and waiting weeks for the parts only to see it work except with vtx.
 I think it flies better with this FC maybe a different gyro but definitely felt more locked in and nice throttle response.
 I almost didn’t order the F4S because directions did not match what was done by Armattan but once I heard back from them I thought using it would be the easiest way to get the same settings.

 I got FC from RDQ and maybe they will stand behind it.I can’t stand it when I get a defective item because of the hassle of it all.I know it happens but it’s a hassle and it being a FC does not help one bit.
 My soldering work needs some improvement but I don’t see any problem areas on the the FC that would cause any shorts.

(28-Sep-2020, 12:05 AM)SnowLeopardFPV Wrote: The clue might be in the description of the Facebook post. They say if you have a V1.6 board then blah blah blah. Maybe the ability to combine voltages hasn't been designed to work the same way on older versions of the boards. Do you know what version you bought as a replacement? I see vendors still selling the V1.4 and V1.5 boards so maybe you got one of those older ones.

  Both of mine are versions stamped V 1.6 and here’s the link to the one I just got 
 https://www.racedayquads.com/products/cl...0698946059
and here’s the one that came with Armattan rtf build 
 https://armattanquads.com/cl-racing-f4s-...ontroller/

  I compared them closely under a scope with light and front back look identical except on the back they are stamped V1.6 on both but one has 2022 and the other 1951 in the upper right hand corner.
The 2022 delivers 11.2 volts the other 5v it bridged or 1.2 volts if 7.2 v is bridged to center.
They come with 7.2 jumped already.For what vtx I don’t know.

I guess it’s time to quit kicking the dead horse.
Maybe a external power regulator might be the way to go.