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Prop wash / filtering / PIDs / etc.
#1
Hi guys,

So have flown exactly 6 packs with my drone so far, and now I am at the point where I want to configure it to fly as smooth as possible.
At first I had terrible video feed issues, but those were fixed.

Do you guys have some suggestions how to configure this setup to have better stability?
Or do you think it's already fine?

Also am I being too aggressive when I punch into the air, that my batteries goes so close to 12V even when just started flying?
Sometimes I go into air, and it beeps since battery was very low on that point. But yeah when I go home both batteries are at 3.77 almost storage value.

So this thread is just to get any expert advice on further drone improvements based on my videos  Popcorn






So this is my setup:

DALPROP T5045C props
DYS SunFun 2400KV motors
Tattu R-Line 1300mAh 4S 1.0V 95C batteries
Holybro Tekko32 BLHeli32 ESCs, Kakute F7 AIO FC

In regards Betaflight, these are my settings. I added RPM filters as per Bardwell's video as well.
PIDs are default.

[Image: 5Pu29zj.png]

[Image: MZXZ3PL.png][Image: Xey0EuN.png]

[Image: o95d3IN.png]

[Image: NMSPu0N.png]
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#2
Honestly, your footage seems smooth to me, but I'm facing some wobbles that are more evident on HD cameras. Do you have access to a GoPro or something to check and compare?
Let's the expert appear, man.

Also, I've see you have the RPM filter activated, you can try reducing the faltering both slides at the same time and with low incrementals checking for better performance and cool (warm I guess) motors.

Edit: More About the RPM Filter, I've read on Betaflight Github abd there is a video of Joshua B. Suggesting that the Dynamic Notch filter should be at Medium, 0 - and 250. Let me find the link: https://github.com/betaflight/betaflight...figuration
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#3
It looks fine to me. The way it is flying is more to do with erratic stick control so you if you want smoother flying you just need to be better / smoother on the sticks. Reducing your rates would probably help.
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#4
Thanks for the input Smile
In regards battery - It's weird that whenever I plug in a fully charged LiPo 4.2V per cell, it already shows around 4.06V per cell when I am about to arm the quad.
And when I land, it shows in OSD around 3.5/3.6V, but when I check them later they are around 3.7/3.8V.

Should I just double check and recalibrate my battery sensor in BF, and add this .1-.2V difference?
So I would have less warnings about the battery being super low on punch, since I don't really think it is..

Do you also (when starting to fly) don't see fully charged 4.2V per cell in OSD?
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#5
(23-Dec-2019, 07:09 AM)notafraid_fpv Wrote: Thanks for the input Smile
In regards battery - It's weird that whenever I plug in a fully charged LiPo 4.2V per cell, it already shows around 4.06V per cell when I am about to arm the quad.
And when I land, it shows in OSD around 3.5/3.6V, but when I check them later they are around 3.7/3.8V.

Should I just double check and recalibrate my battery sensor in BF, and add this .1-.2V difference?
So I would have less warnings about the battery being super low on punch, since I don't really think it is..

Do you also (when starting to fly) don't see fully charged 4.2V per cell in OSD?

You need to celebrate your current sensor in order to get the accurated reading. Check the guide of how to do it, but keep in mid that the formula is reversed (at least for my case) https://oscarliang.com/current-sensor-calibration/

In the post, you are suggested to fly some packs and write down the OSD Consumed battery value, then go to charge your lipo and do the following math:

new_scale = old_scale x (OSD_mAh_consumed / mAh_charged)

In my case I had to invert it to new_scale = old_scale x (mAh_charged/OSD_mAh_consumed)

That way the value goes down and raising the reading. Tricky concept on Betafligth but easy to apply once you get it.

As a last recommendaion based on what I did, fly 6 packs or as many as you can do, write (or record on DVR) all the mAh consumed in OSD, add them up, after that, charge all the packs, get the values of mAh charged and add them up, then apply the formula. Hope it works for you.

Edit: Yes, sometimes I get less voltage value below 4.2 with a fully charged battery, but that's just a calibration thing; you'll see (in case you have warnings activated on OSD) Something like: BATTERY < FULL indicating the battery is not full, in that case, check your battery in case you messed up and ended up using a used pack.
[-] The following 1 user Likes CM17X's post:
  • notafraid_fpv
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#6
Thanks man, unfortunately during my build I had a solder ball dropped on FC which leaded to short circuit and I ended up burning my current sensor.
So I guess I can only see battery voltage, and not mAh.
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#7
It looks pretty good actually....

Maybe just turn up the exponential, it's mostly about your stick control from what I see.

Maybe decrease the filtering by 10 points (by raising the number by 10 points) and you should be good....

I'd play around with your rates more than anything though it looks pretty good. That erratic movement stuff goes away the better you get.... stick control.
'Ignore' is the route word of Ignorant. 
[-] The following 1 user Likes bLoWsMokE's post:
  • notafraid_fpv
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#8
(23-Dec-2019, 10:39 AM)CM17X Wrote: You need to celebrate your current sensor in order to get the accurated reading. Check the guide of how to do it, but keep in mid that the formula is reversed (at least for my case) https://oscarliang.com/current-sensor-calibration/

In the post, you are suggested to fly some packs and write down the OSD Consumed battery value, then go to charge your lipo and do the following math:

new_scale = old_scale x (OSD_mAh_consumed / mAh_charged)

In my case I had to invert it to new_scale = old_scale x (mAh_charged/OSD_mAh_consumed)

That way the value goes down and raising the reading. Tricky concept on Betafligth but easy to apply once you get it.

As a last recommendaion based on what I did, fly 6 packs or as many as you can do, write (or record on DVR) all the mAh consumed in OSD, add them up, after that, charge all the packs, get the values of mAh charged and add them up, then apply the formula. Hope it works for you.

Edit: Yes, sometimes I get less voltage value below 4.2 with a fully charged battery, but that's just a calibration thing; you'll see (in case you have warnings activated on OSD) Something like:  BATTERY < FULL indicating the battery is not full, in that case, check your battery in case you messed up and ended up using a used pack.

He means calibrate...

Celebrate christmas.... calibrate sensors  Poop

I'm just teasing relax!
'Ignore' is the route word of Ignorant. 
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#9
(26-Dec-2019, 03:39 AM)bLoWsMokE Wrote: He means calibrate...

Celebrate christmas.... calibrate sensors  Poop

I'm just teasing relax!

Merry smokemas, man! Big Grin
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#10
Haha I automatically read that as calibrate but celebrating sensor that I no longer have also sounds nice Big Grin

Thanks guys, i am getting 3 more lipos after holidays and will have more time testing the quad.
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