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Process of elimination.
#1
CLRacing F4s FC

KingKong 15A ESC

EMAX-MT2204  Motor

It wants to spin up but tends to stutter...Only the M3 one that is.

Connected to BLHeli and checked settings, identical to the other three, ran the beta test etc and no response at all.
Connected to Betaflight (latest version) and same results.

Any suggestions on the best way to isolate if it is the esc or motor? I do have a nice Fluke meter and know how to use but not what to look for.
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#2
Put one of the good motors on that ESC.....if problem remains, it's the ESC, if problem goes away, it's the motor.
"Damn the torpedoes!!!  Full speed ahead!!!"
[-] The following 2 users Like sirdude's post:
  • JMcGraw47, Krohsis
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#3
(27-May-2018, 01:13 PM)sirdude Wrote: Put one of the good motors on that ESC.....if problem remains, it's the ESC, if problem goes away, it's the motor.

Troubleshooting at it best!



[-] The following 1 user Likes Krohsis's post:
  • JMcGraw47
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#4
Just for "Grins" and statistical data purposes I will Ohm a good motor and compare to the potential bad one and Fluke the ESC while energized at various throttle settings.......Must be the Maint man coming out in me from my Refinery days!
[-] The following 1 user Likes JMcGraw47's post:
  • Krohsis
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#5
My bet is on the motor. Either bad solder to one of the wire lead, broken winding or long screw. You should be able to determine quickly troubleshoot with sirdude suggestion.
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#6
(28-May-2018, 12:57 AM)voodoo614 Wrote: My bet is on the motor. Either bad solder to one of the wire lead,  broken winding or long screw. You should be able to determine quickly troubleshoot with sirdude suggestion.

Bad solder?   Flew good yesterday, soft landing!  Broken winding?  To Ohm or not to Ohm! Long screw? Do screws lengthen over time?
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#7
Screws that are too long can touch the motor wildings, here is how to check
https://oscarliang.com/check-motor-screw...g-winding/

You can simply swap two motors in your quad to narrow down the cause of the problem Smile
Don't be a LOS'er, be an FPV'er :)  My Gear - Facebook - Instagram - Twitter
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#8
Conclusion:
    Turned out to be the ESC, here are my Fluke findings.

De-energized and connected to esc each leg of the solder joint measured 0.3 ohms.
Disconnected each leg measured 0.3 ohms, on the esc (disconnected from motor leads) each tab measured 40kilo ohms (typical reading back through a circuit board)

Energized, connected and armed at min RPM of 1150 rpm the voltage read battery voltage regardless of throttle setting. ( ESC must be controlling current)

While measuring esc tabs I pressed down on esc a little and it started working, prior to that the voltage kept fluctuating between 0v and battery voltage.

4 new ESC's on order and 3 spares for foam board projects.....Flite Test videos inspired me...
[-] The following 1 user Likes JMcGraw47's post:
  • Krohsis
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#9
(02-Jun-2018, 02:47 PM)JMcGraw47 Wrote: Conclusion:
    Turned out to be the ESC, here are my Fluke findings.

De-energized and connected to esc each leg of the solder joint measured 0.3 ohms.
Disconnected each leg measured 0.3 ohms, on the esc (disconnected from motor leads) each tab measured 40kilo ohms (typical reading back through a circuit board)

Energized, connected and armed at min RPM of 1150 rpm the voltage read battery voltage regardless of throttle setting. ( ESC must be controlling current)

While measuring esc tabs I pressed down on esc a little and it started working, prior to that the voltage kept fluctuating between 0v and battery voltage.

4 new ESC's on order and 3 spares for foam board projects.....Flite Test videos inspired me...

Nicely done!



[-] The following 1 user Likes Krohsis's post:
  • JMcGraw47
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