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NanoLongRange ELRS help
#1
Hi all!  I have been working on this NanoLongRange build for a while and I finally got back to working on it. I have it setup essentially exactly as DaveC did but I have used a Happymodel ELRS SX1280 RX instead of a Crossfire or Frsky. I have the Happymodel ES24TX in my QX7s. Both TX and RX have been updated and auto bind on powerup. I believe I have betaflight configured correctly but if I try to arm or move the sticks, nothing changes on the receiver tab. I cant seem to figure out why it doesnt work when everything appears to be setup correctly. Any tips or info on what the issue might be is greatly appreciated. I can supply more info or pictures if required. 

Thanks in advance.
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#2
A CLI dump and a photo of the wiring will help.

I assume you have already turn on Serial_RX on the UART you connected the ELRS RX and also selected Serial based receiver and CRSF as the Receiver protocol.
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#3
(23-Nov-2021, 09:49 AM)kafie1980 Wrote: A CLI dump and a photo of the wiring will help.

I assume you have already turn on Serial_RX on the UART you connected the ELRS RX and also selected Serial based receiver and CRSF as the Receiver protocol.

I have turned on Serial_RX for the UART (even tried the other UART and it didnt make a difference). I also have set it to serial based and CSRF. Here is the dump and picture of the wiring. I know that generally the wires should all be different colors but I didnt have anything else on hand so the RX uses black and red for everything. I have triple checked and the ones for rx/tx do go to the correct pads on the rx and fc.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   

.txt   BTFL_cli_NanoLongRange_20211123_104346.txt (Size: 35.49 KB / Downloads: 47)
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#4
The TX pad on the receiver should be connected to the R2 pad on the flight controller. You have a wire going to the pad next to it.
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#5
(23-Nov-2021, 05:25 PM)V-22 Wrote: The TX pad on the receiver should be connected to the R2 pad on the flight controller. You have a wire going to the pad next to it.

Really? I was wondering about that because in the diagram from DaveC he shows a bridge between R2 and T2. I couldn't find any solid info on why that would be so I just made it go to T2. 


https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/2d/ed...Wiring.jpg
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#6
The receiver is meant to solder to the through holes in the row with the 5V and ground pads, then you bridge between the RC and SBUS or R2 pads depending on whether your receiver uses SBUS. You want R2.

So, you can either solder to the RC pad between T2 and 5V and bridge the pads between RC and R2, or just solder to R2 directly.
[-] The following 1 user Likes V-22's post:
  • lolmodule
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#7
(23-Nov-2021, 05:44 PM)V-22 Wrote: The receiver is meant to solder to the through holes in the row with the 5V and ground pads, then you bridge between the RC and SBUS or R2 pads depending on whether your receiver uses SBUS. You want R2.

So, you can either solder to the RC pad between T2 and 5V and bridge the pads between RC and R2, or just solder to R2 directly.

Ahhh ok. That makes sense. Ill do that. Thanks for the help and quick replies.
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#8
(23-Nov-2021, 05:44 PM)V-22 Wrote: The receiver is meant to solder to the through holes in the row with the 5V and ground pads, then you bridge between the RC and SBUS or R2 pads depending on whether your receiver uses SBUS. You want R2.

So, you can either solder to the RC pad between T2 and 5V and bridge the pads between RC and R2, or just solder to R2 directly.

That was the fix! everything is working now. Now I just have to find those tiny prop screws....
[-] The following 1 user Likes lolmodule's post:
  • V-22
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#9
It actually flies better without the prop screws due to less rotating weight. The other critical parts of the build are to make sure you use a capacitor on the FC, and performance is much better if you skip the 18650 cell holder and solder an XT30 to the cell directly.
[-] The following 1 user Likes V-22's post:
  • p-i-engineer
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#10
I have a capacitor on the FC. The props I bought apparently have too large of a center bore so I cant do push on only. I just ordered some that should just push on. I have all the props on and everything seems to work but it doesn't want to take off it seems. all motors are turning correctly according to what betaflight says and I *think* I have the props on the correct motors. Not sure why else it wouldn't want to take off.
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#11
Does the model move correctly in the Betaflight setup screen if you tilt it forward, back, left, and right?

Take a picture of the props on the quad and we can verify they are on properly.
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#12
Unfortunately I left for work before I saw your reply. From memory I believe it moved correctly in betaflight when tilted all directions. I will take a picture of the mounted rotors when I get home from work. Thanks again for all your help. It is appreciated very much.
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#13
(23-Nov-2021, 08:15 PM)V-22 Wrote: Does the model move correctly in the Betaflight setup screen if you tilt it forward, back, left, and right?

Take a picture of the props on the quad and we can verify they are on properly.

so, as I was taking the picture I realized the props were indeed on the wrong motors. so I swapped them and they all are correct now. BUT I seem to have a different issue where the #4 motor (front left when looking from behind) spins the opposite direction it is supposed to. I havent changed any of the motor wiring and I dont see a way in betaflight to change the direction of just a single motor.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
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#14
After some googling I found BlHelisuite. I was able to change the direction of the motor and I am finally able to get it off the ground! now I just need to learn to fly lol. Thanks for all the help!
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#15
You’ve done well to navigate the problems with help from some great members of this forum!
[-] The following 1 user Likes ph2t's post:
  • lolmodule
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